Help...replaced my alternator and now my water pump is leaking.

[jehuie]

Hi everyone! This is my first post asking for help so thank you all in advance!

I have a 1960 Morris Minor Saloon that has a 1275 A-series engine in it. I don't know the year of the engine or what it came out of. There is no number plate so I can't look it up. It recently stopped charging the battery so I pulled the alternator and had it tested. It tested fine.

When I went to put it back on, I started getting a leak around the water pump. It never leaked prior to removing the alternator. My guess is that the change in pressure from the belt must have wiggled it loose a little?

So my question is: Do you think I need to replace that water pump now? Or pull it and replace the gasket? Or do you think I could get away with just tightening it back up?

I believe it was replaced when the engine was rebuilt but that was well over 10 years ago.

Thoughts?

Thank you!

 

[zabond]

if its leaking around the out side edge then you could try to tighten the bolts, if that doesn't fix it then replace the gasket, if its leaking near where the fan bolts on [behind the flange] then its better to replace the pump
Russ

 

[jehuie]

if its leaking around the out side edge then you could try to tighten the bolts, if that doesn't fix it then replace the gasket, if its leaking near where the fan bolts on [behind the flange] then its better to replace the pump
Russ

Upon further investigation, it appears that the water is dripping from the bottom of the pulley. Which must mean that it's not a gasket issue. I guess I'll need to replace it. I just don't know why removing the alternator and replacing it suddenly made it start leaking. Not a small leak either.

 

[zabond]

its the pump seal, it's easier [cheaper] to replace the pump than just the seal, when you replace the pump also replace the bi-pass hose with a new one, don't use a concertina type try to get a Kevlar one for peace of mind, because if you ever have to replace one on the road its a PIA
Russ

 

[JPSmit]

could be the belt pressure - and could be just magic and voodoo.

hopefully not telling you what you already know but these water pumps are designed to start weeping from the bottom when they are failing.

 

[jehuie]

its the pump seal, it's easier [cheaper] to replace the pump than just the seal, when you replace the pump also replace the bi-pass hose with a new one, don't use a concertina type try to get a Kevlar one for peace of mind, because if you ever have to replace one on the road its a PIA
Russ

I'll order one. And the hose as well. It's been a long time since I ordered parts for this thing. Is Mini Mania a good place? Or are there more affordable options? Also, I think there are slight variations in the pump aren't there? Since I'm not sure exactly what engine I have, I'll need to figure out which one to get. I'll go snap a photo.

EDIT: It turns out it's hard to get a pic of the thing because of where it is. But here's my best side-shot of the thing.

 

[jehuie]

could be the belt pressure - and could be just magic and voodoo.

hopefully not telling you what you already know but these water pumps are designed to start weeping from the bottom when they are failing.

I thought belt pressure at first but the voodoo possibility is perhaps more likely. I had just learned that about the weeping earlier today while watching a youtube video about replacing the thing.

 

[DrEntropy]

Coincidental issue, IMHO. The "last straw" effect from belt tension.

Try finding a "Heritage" replacement. The other after-market pumps have a stamped steel impeller which tends to cavitate, causing less-than efficient coolant flow. The cast impeller is what you want.

 

[jehuie]

Coincidental issue, IMHO. The "last straw" effect from belt tension.

Try finding a "Heritage" replacement. The other after-market pumps have a stamped steel impeller which tends to cavitate, causing less-than efficient coolant flow. The cast impeller is what you want.

Thank you Doc,

I've already ordered on, along with a few other parts. I can't tell by looking at it whether it is a heritage replacement. My guess is that it is not, but hopefully it will be ok. Here's the one I ordered:

Water Pump, 1275 A-series (GWP0134)

Water pump for large-bore engines, 1275cc and larger. Deep and large impeller for more water circulation and efficient cooling. Ref: GWP134, GWP0134.

www.7ent.com

 

[drooartz]

Another Morris with a 1275, excellent!

I just did all the hoses on my 1275 engined '66 4-door, and that included pulling the water pump off to get the bypass hose installed. Not a bad job since that whole front panel where the radiator attaches comes off with just a set of bolts. Makes access easy.

For parts, Moss, Minimania, British Parts Northwest will all usually have the mechanical bits you need, anything shared with Sprites and Midgets. Morris specific stuff I get from ESM in the UK.

 

[jehuie]

Another Morris with a 1275, excellent!

I just did all the hoses on my 1275 engined '66 4-door, and that included pulling the water pump off to get the bypass hose installed. Not a bad job since that whole front panel where the radiator attaches comes off with just a set of bolts. Makes access easy.

For parts, Moss, Minimania, British Parts Northwest will all usually have the mechanical bits you need, anything shared with Sprites and Midgets. Morris specific stuff I get from ESM in the UK.

Thank you Drew! Some day I need to investigate to try to determine what make and year of vehicle the engine came from. What transmission do you have in yours? Mine is from a Datsun 210 which works well enough. But it was tricky getting it to fit into the car with the adapter on it. I had to cut a notch in the bell housing to get it to clear the steering rack.

 

[DrEntropy]

Some day I need to investigate to try to determine what make and year of vehicle the engine came from.

From the photo you posted of the pump and surrounding bits, it would appear the engine came from a late (post-'67) car. The hex head plug in the head forward of the sparkplug indicates a "smog pump" rail would have been attached originally. Is the number tag on the port side of the block still intact?

 

[DrEntropy]

Oh, and in case you're not aware of it, the water temp sensor is a gas (ether) filled bulb with a capillary tube to the instrument, not a wire. If cut or ruptured a replacement unit is well close to $300.

 

[jehuie]

From the photo you posted of the pump and surrounding bits, it would appear the engine came from a late (post-'67) car. The hex head plug in the head forward of the sparkplug indicates a "smog pump" rail would have been attached originally. Is the number tag on the port side of the block still intact?

Nope. The number plate is missing unfortunately. Probably lost during a rebuild.

Oh, and in case you're not aware of it, the water temp sensor is a gas (ether) filled bulb with a capillary tube to the instrument, not a wire. If cut or ruptured a replacement unit is well close to $300.

Cripes. That's spendy. Should I check that while I'm at it? Do they go bad often?

 

[DrEntropy]

Nope. The number plate is missing unfortunately. Probably lost during a rebuild.


Cripes. That's spendy. Should I check that while I'm at it? Do they go bad often?

Too bad about the plate.

They don't usually fail until you try to remove them! I'd suggest you clean that area up with a brass bristle brush and soak it periodically with a penetrant like PB Blaster, or preferably weasel pi$$ (50/50 mix of acetone and ATF), just as precaution. If you ever need to pull the head, you don't need extra aggravation!

 

[jehuie]

From the photo you posted of the pump and surrounding bits, it would appear the engine came from a late (post-'67) car. The hex head plug in the head forward of the sparkplug indicates a "smog pump" rail would have been attached originally. Is the number tag on the port side of the block still intact?

Can you tell by looking which size belt I need? I ordered one that said it's for a 1275 with an alternator but it is way too short.

 

[DrEntropy]

Can't really guess at the belt, but if you wrap a string around the pulleys for a "measurin' stick," Mark the length and take that to an auto parts store, they should get you as close as necessary. And measure the width of the pulley channels to take along, too.