It's frustrating when you're in the middle of checking and re-checking, but it will be very rewarding once you have it sorted.
First, you can't set the idle adjustments if the car is running on the choke. If you set the idle speed with the choke engaged, then the idle speed adjustment screw would be bearing against the fast idle cam. Once you disengage the choke, the idle speed would be much too low. Also, setting the idle mixture with the choke engaged would result in a mixture that's much too lean when the choke is disengaged. (Or did you mean that you followed the bench setup instructions? There's another round of idle adjustments to be done with the engine running...)
Just to clarify, the car cranks with the choke pulled out -- but does it start and idle with the choke out, and then die when you try to push the choke back in? Or is it refusing to start and idle at all?
If you take off the air cleaner and look down the throats while cycling the throttle once quickly (engine off), do you get a squirt of fuel down one throat? If not, you have a fuel delivery issue. Either something is clogged, the fuel pump isn't cooperating, or a fuel line may be loose and drawing in more air than fuel.
One more tedious but necessary cleaning step: Check each of the jets (particularly the idle jets) and make sure they are clean inside. Don't use a piece of wire to scrape them out or you may alter the jet size. If something is stuck inside one or more jets, that will interfere with fuel flow. I would not be surprised if an idle jet is clogged. The reduced amount of fuel would be a good match for the reduced amount of air from a closed choke, but when you open the choke it would go dead lean.