TR2/3/3A Gas Line/Fuel Pipe Installation Questions

[DornTRoriginal]

I am installing a new gas line and encountered some dilemmas and I’m seeking your suggestions and advice. I have reviewed some old posts on this topic so I know that there have been a number of us in a similar situation.

My first question is regarding the connection of my new gas line into the outlet from the gas tank. The old line was okay however the upper threads at the end of the fitting going into the gas tank outlet was “stripped” ( I think you can see that on the lower line in the picture) and I was not confident it would not leak, the rest of the fuel line from the connection under the car was not in the best condition so I went ahead and purchased new sections of gas “pipe” only to find the fittings are not the same as the originals. The new pipe(s) have female fittings on each end so to use the pipe I have to put a male union fitting between the two female fittings which seems straight forward and easy enough where the two sections of pipe are connected. I order an extra connector union fortunately be cuz I think I am going to need it.

However, at the point of connection to the bottom of the tank I’m wondering if the male fitting will seat properly into the existing threaded female connection, the one welded into the bottom right side of the gas tank? If I did not use the threaded male to male connector my option would be to use one of the old male fittings, from the old pipe, one that has good threads, I’m just not sure: can I remove and reuse the compression ring? Does the end of the new pipe need to be flared? I do not have a flaring tool and from what I have read that tool may be hard to come by. What would you do? I have no gas in the tank yet so I don't think I have a way to check if it would leak?

My second question has to do with the “Fuel Tap”. I have read that there is not a lot of satisfaction from the reproduction units because they tend to be leaky, I purchased a new tap a long time ago because I was excited to see they were available again. Now I'm wondering if I should abandon the plan to use it and seek a different solution to isolate the fuel from the fuel pump? I really like the idea to be able to shut off the gas if necessary, if the tap I have is inefficient I think I would prefer to get a different, more reliable type at this point. Any recommendations?.

Pictures are of the old fittings, new fittings and “pipe” (gas line), the pipe fitted to the tank (still need to make the proper bends around the axel and along the body (tub) and the pipe routed through the frame, that’s the right hole I think?

As always, Thanks!

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[charleyf]

As To The tap I use a small shut off valve from a motorcycle. Works great and is almost not noticeable. It does have a red knob but I have painted it black. Connects with 5/16" fuel hose on both sides. The fuel line going into the tank isNOT FLARED. The compression sleeve is what makes the seal.
Charley

 

[TR3driver]

You probably won't be able to reuse the old sleeve (but can't hurt to try). As Charley said, the line should be straight and smooth, the sleeve is what does the sealing. No flaring required.

It's been awhile, but ISTR I got mine to seal with a new compression sleeve from the hardware store. A simple test is to tighten the nut just moderately tight then try to twist the line. If it will move, the sleeve is not grabbing and the nut is probably bottomed in the threads. You can try filing off part of the last thread at the tip of the nut to get just a bit more penetration. If not, you can try this trick:: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffODA0ZmI4YTItNDhiZC00YmMzLTllOTUtZWVjN2U5MTUzZjA3

The original taps also tended to leak. The cork seal would shrink over time and not fit the bore snugly. There is an adjustment to spread it out again (undo the locknut, then turn the slotted screw CCW until the seal is tight again and relock the nut). I got tired of having to do that every year or two, so I replaced the cork with a short section of 'rubber' fuel line. Kind of finicky to get adjusted tight enough to seal and loose enough to move by hand; but once I found the sweet spot it worked great for many years. I think I've fiddled with it twice in over 20 years now.