Filling a completely dry cooling system....

[Guest]

I am getting very close to D-Day when I will crank the engine after the BIG OVERHAUL. Dilemma, I have a new radiator, new water pump housing, new hoses and new heater core - all dry. The only coolant in my system is the little bit left in the water jacket in the block. Filling from the radiator will not get coolant to the pump, especially with a thermostat cold and closed. I thought of temporarily pulling the thrermostat and somehow pressure filling the whole cooling system so the the water pump will have something to pump. Simply filling the radiator and expecting the fluid to flow doesn't seem likely to me. Or will the coolant, if filled just from the radiator cap, reach the water pump naturally? Should I pop the thermostat anyway when doing a static fill and then glue it back down? Am I missing the point here? Surely I must open the heater valve during the whole process (my new heater is soooo pretty....). Any suggestions? Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

Bill

 

[Brosky]

You could pull the stat and fill the block, replace the stat and fill radiator. After which you will have to run the engine and the coolant will works it way into the heater core (after stat opens from warm-up) and all of the air pockets will start to work their way out of the system. Keep an eye on the coolant level and watch as the bubbles start to disappear from the radiator. You will have to add as you go along, so have enough pre-mix ready to go to keep up with it.

 

[DNK]

an old trick I learned is pull the stat and insert an aspirin to open the stat. the system will fill better and help you bleed it. The aspirin will disolve and the stat will close.

 

[Guest]

Come again!? The system will fill better as well as feel better, you think? What the hey does the aspirin do, or are you pulling my leg?

Bill

 

[Webb Sledge]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the coolant should reach the pump naturally. I have never heard of anyone having to fill the system through the stat, but then again it couldn't hurt.

 

[TRMark]

I have never had a problem with refilling my TR4. Fill the radiator with coolant, leave off the cap and start the engine, as the fluid level goes down add more. As Webb stated the coolant will get to the pump. Recheck over the next few days. In some vehicles the radiator and or the cap is below the top of the cyl. head, these situations can give problems; in some cases the front of the car has to be elevated to promote purging of air from the system. Anyway, that is my experience.

 

[Stinky]

I believe what DNK is saying is to basically jam the thermostat open with an aspirin. The stat will then be open allowing the coolant to flow thru, even though the engine is "cold". The coolant flowing thru will disolve the aspirin slowly. Once completely disolved the stat is no longer jammed open and all is normal.

 

[Guest]

Oh.

 

[Brosky]

I only suggested doing what you seemed inclined to do anyhow. The coolant will definitely reach the pump and begin to circulate without pulling the stat, but I always added coolant before inserting the stat on any rebuild just to sort of pre-prime the system.

 

[DNK]

Thank you Tom. I didn't think I needed to break it down anymore than I did.

 

[Guest]

Sorry if I seemed SA but I have Two months and Too much money tied up in this upgrade to overlook something that might cause me some grief in short order. Sometimes my naivete overloads my derriere. Hopefully I can post a success story here soon.

Bill

 

[Bugeye58]

Bill, I have always filled the engine through the stat just to make sure I get as much coolant in as possible prior to an initial start. Perhaps not necessary, but it gives me peace of mind, if nothing else.
I do the initial fire up running water only, just in case something <u>does</u> let go. At least that could keep corrosive coolant from the bearings.
Good luck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Jeff

 

[Tomster]

Pull the stat. Make sure you have a spare gasket, because if you don't, sure as poop you'll tear the first one. Test the A.F. for mixture value as over concentrated will gum the system up, too dilute is inefficient.
Oh yeah, just to state the obvious, turn your heater control to full heat so that the core fills. You can tell if you're getting an air lock by the lack of heat from the heater while the engine temp continues to rise.
If you do get an air lock, simply loosen the highest hose clamp on your car and bleed the air off. This can be messy!
Has anyone used the "water wetter" product in their cooling system?

 

[swift6]

[ QUOTE ]
Test the A.F. for mixture value as over concentrated will gum the system up, too dilute is inefficient.

[/ QUOTE ]

Since Bill is in Louisiana a dilluted mixture could actually be more efficient in cooling for him as he doesn't need to worry about freezing temps very often. BTW straight water does cool better than a 50/50 mix. But it still needs corrosion inhibitors. Some water wetter style products have these in them.

Bill if your are still concerned after all of this good advice, you can always raise the front of the car (or lower the rear) so that the stat housing is the highest point. Fill at both the radiator and the stat letting gravity do most of the work.
Install the stat housing, and upper rad hose before you lower the front end. You can then also "burp" the system by sqeezing the upper rad hose. You can watch the air bubbles come up through the radiator cap opening. Eventually the coolant level will just rise and fall every time you squeeze the hose and you will see no more bubbles.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif