LOL...I knew I couldn't get off that easy!
Here is a link to my first stab at the gaps...
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?74291-TR3-Body-gaps
The rough order of how things have to be worked out goes like this...
1) set the doors on the car and get the bottom gap (to sill) and rear gap (to "B" pillar) as good as you can by adjusting the hinges. You can use shims, but if everything is apart, I prefer to use a hammer on the "A" pillar, so I do not have to mess with remembering where shims have to go. You will be installing/removing the doors many times.
2) Now you have a choice...if the gaps are close, you can grind the edge of the door to even them up. If they are still large, then you have to weld a bead to the edge of the door and grind that to where you want it.
3) When happy with the bottom and rear, then install the front wing and repeat the fun with the front edge along the wing and upper scuttle.
It is a slow and time consuming project. But, it is VERY worth the time you put into it. Like most body work, take frequent breaks where you step back, have a beer, and study where you are and what the best way is to get the best gap with the least effort.
As I am sure you know...the door gaps at the top will be affected by the shims used when the body is finally installed on the frame. Not so much the lower gaps. For my first TR3 I worked the gaps on the complete frame, engine, suspension and all. Since then, I feel more confident with the stiffness of the TR3 frame, so I doubt I had to go to that extreme.
When you get to the bonnet...
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?74434-Bonnet-Gaps