Convert to adjustable steering

[Steve Huneck]

Hi,
I have just removed my horn quadrant/control head from my BJ7 and have found some issues that require attention. I thought I would solicit some opinions on the best way to proceed.
Here is what I have;
A two piece stator tube, the bottom piece has a slot, but the top piece seems to have just been pounded into the bottom piece.
I do not have a nut on the steering wheel end just a circlip, but I do have the large plastic clamping nut.
I have the olive at the bottom end which held the stator tube in place.
I only have one wire, for one horn, running down the tube.
I am missing the trafficator lever (I have a switch on the dash for the turn signals), and a quick peek looks like I am missing the pawls and springs.
So, I would like to replace the whole control head, but can I go with the adjustable version? It is quite a bit cheaper than the non-adjustable.
Any thoughts/opinions/experiences are very appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve

 

[Keoke]

So, I would like to replace the whole control head, but can I go with the adjustable version? It is quite a bit cheaper than the non-adjustable.

I am not sure, but that might be possible provided The lower tube has not been buggered and the fixed steering wheel will accomodate the control head.--Fwiw--Keoke- :cowboy:

 

[hama61]

Hello Steve,

The non adjustable control head has a stator tube from the horn push to the steering box (that tube is maybe around 6 feet) The horn push is roughly twice a big as the adjustable one.

These non adj control heads are very difficult to get and much more expensive than the adjustable( can easily be bought aftermarket)

fwiw
Harry

 

[Steve Huneck]

Hi,
I think I may have a 'modified' adjustable. I have attached a couple of pictures.

Steve

 

[Keoke]

Hi,
I think I may have a 'modified' adjustable. I have attached a couple of pictures.

Steve

OPPS!!---Keoke- :laugh:

 

[Steve Huneck]

Okay - let's try it this way;

 

[Duane_Rhynard]

Steve,

The joint should look like the picture below. Please note in this picture mine is cracked on the end of the slot on the long tube.

Duane
58 BN6

 

[Keoke]

Well Steve, I think your initial concept of trickery may be correct. :laugh:
What this looks like to me is the original nonadjustable assembly may have also had a defective stator tube.

Replacing a fixed stator tube to the horn assembly is a bit of a chore
.
So the[ ] cut the original stator tube off below the Horn assembly and then forced it on to an adjustable stator tube where the slot in the adjustable tube allowed the mating..---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Keoke]

The joint should look like the picture below.

Please note in this picture mine is cracked on the end of the slot on the long tube.
Hi Duane
The cracked tube can be repaired using a tig weld. However,depending on the shop. the cost may be about the same or more than replacing the tube.--Fwiw-Keoke

 

[Steve Huneck]

Thanks for the input. I think I can clean this mess up with a new adjustable control head assembly and lower stator tube.

 

[Keoke]

Well Steve, you might want to give E-Bay a look see. I see them there occasionally.---Keoke

 

[Jerry]

I did the conversion to the adjustable for my non-adjustable BN4. It is possible to make this work. The one item which is a little unsightly is the adjustable will stick out of the steering wheel a little too much. Too much gap between the trafficar and the steering wheel. The use of a dremel on the inside of the steering wheel will get these to mate better.

Jerry
BN4
BJ8

 

[Johnny]

Don't forget to change the chrome ring out, they are different sizes.
good Luck