TR2/3/3A comment on dist. wire [Ebay]

[2liter4cyl]

Check out Ebay listing for red 1960 tr3a listed by St L. Mus. (the one on a mirror) #1 cyl wire goes to #2 slot on cap. The vacuum advance looks right, but can't see vac. line. What is wrong at this asking price? Le

 

[TR3driver]

How much more do you want? Whoever built the engine couldn't be bothered to correct such an obvious and easily correctable mistake (or was too oblivious to realize it was a mistake)! How many more mistakes did he make that aren't so obvious? I sure wouldn't want to be the one to find out!

But here's a few things:
1) Heater is either installed or assembled wrong, perhaps both.
2) Vacuum advance line is cut.
3) heater hoses are wrong
4) Fuel gauge is from an MGA !!
5) Oil gauge is broken (note how it reads 4 bar with the key off)
6) Oil gauge is wrong for North American market. (Might be the right Euro gauge, tho.)
7) Instrument panel is finished wrong
8) Hood sticks don't appear to fold properly
9) Capillary line for temp gauge not routed as original nor secured against vibration.
10) Hood lift assembled wrong
11) Radiator and front carb vent lines missing
12) Thermostat housing should be natural aluminum. Paint suggests something to hide.
13) Mixed nuts on manifold studs, most of them wrong.
14) Top front manifold stud is too short.
15) Front lower manifold clamp appears to be missing?
16) Horn wiring is butchered with 10 cent crimp type butt connectors.
17) No overdrive!
18) Sloppy seat cover installation on base of driver's seat. Cover seam doesn't match spring seam; side doesn't appear to be attached at all.
19) Not certain, but I believe that is the wrong heater control. There shouldn't be that big gap between the knob and bezel.
20) Bottom seal on hard top has apparently slipped off the edge. Not certain, but I think there is a good chance it is not the right kind of seal. The right seal has a big rubber bulb on the inside that would tend to push the seal out. I think that is door welting on there instead of the proper seal.
21) Fuel line is not routed properly.
22) Brake pedal appears to be missing it's rubber pad.
23) Not certain, but I suspect the coil wire is damaged where it comes out of the coil. It shouldn't be able to make that sharp of a bend.
24) At that price, I expect nothing less than a show winner; not a TR3A with a TR4 engine.

There is probably more, but that's enough for now. Oh, you might find this interesting as well
https://www.yelp.com/biz/st-louis-car-museum-and-auto-sales-saint-louis

PS, Before anyone says so, I freely admit that my TR3 daily driver has many many more flaws and does not show nearly as well. But, I'm not trying to sell it for nearly $40K either!

 

[Geo Hahn]

Missing high beam indicator lens.
Cheesy plastic crimp connectors on flasher unit.
Bonnet Dzus have some go-fast stainless steel guards.
Aluminum extension missing from tail pipe.
Orientation of release tab on gas cap wrong - should point to driver's side.
Passenger side door handle points slightly up in some photos - usually means worn parts or faulty installation.
Wiring loom wrapped in black tape - thinking it should be cloth covered.
Fully upholstered boot (at least it contains the most important tool - a BFH).
Boot lid seal does not look correct to me.
Forward muffler looks way too long for stock.

There's more - I'm tired of looking at it.

 

[TR3driver]

Passenger side door handle points slightly up in some photos - usually means worn parts or faulty installation.

Or that someone has tried to open the door by pulling up on the handle. It's amazing how hard some people pull, before realizing that they only work going down!

 

[Andrew Mace]

[...]
There's more - I'm tired of looking at it.

Yeah, lots more. But I also got tired of looking at it. One thing I really can't figure out is what's going on with the front apron and grille: it all slants backward rather than being relatively vertical? Is it a bad fiberglass apron or what???