Hi Randall,
I believe that the clutch return spring was originally a tension spring (#40) that connected between the operating shaft lever (#48) & a tab (#41) mounted under a flywheel housing bolt.
See this drawing:
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28877
I have also seen this tab mounted on the end of the relay lever (#36) pivot shaft. Where it is connected is likely a matter of how long the spring is.
It's important to have complete pedal return with some free play to prevent the carbon faced throw out bearing from contacting the clutch & wearing excessively. For this reason, DO make sure that the linkage is free & not binding, & fully retracting. There is a grease fitting on the end of the pedal shaft & the parts should be well greased.
The clutch linkage was always a weak point on these cars. If you are interested, there is a much improved clutch linkage kit from Cape Sport:
https://www.cape-international.com/store/capeshop.php?parttypes=9&department=&thepart=15643
In my opinion the improved linkage has ball end joints, less friction, & is far sturdier & would be well worth the cost. Pedal effort is noticeably reduced. Norman Nock, & Moss Motors may also stock this particular ball pivot linkage.
The relay lever (#36) is sometimes mounted upside down (lever below it's pivot) & catches on anything high that you drive over. It will function the same in either position. It is properly mounted with the pivot bottom most & the lever & links above the pivot.
Likewise, it's important for the brake push rod to have full return with a bit of free play before it contacts the master cylinder plunger. This spring connection is pretty self evident. The wheel cylinders can only release when the MC plunger is FULLY retracted. Fortunately both the clutch & brake pedal travel are fully adjustable.
Sorry for the long reply if you already know this. Just some things that I have learned over the years.
D