Wedge Bad news on the TR8

[tdskip]

So I went to get some professional help on sorting the TR8 out since I wasn't making progress - and the news is not good.

So some wiring fixes, vacuum line repairs and one new fuel pump later she barely runs any better.

Carbs checked out, timing etc... so all that is OK.

The shop, which is very well regarded and have dealt with lots of these, thinks the cam is screwed up. Compression is still all over the map, and the valves sound off. Not burning any oil.

I'm feeling like an idiot for trusting the seller - I should have known better and not have been so flipp'n overconfident that it was simply a carb issue.

I have a feeling I'm going to be deep under water on this one... and if I sell it I'm also deep underwater because I'll be honest about it's condition.

Sorry for venting....

 

[DieselBrad673]

Seems to be a sore spot on 3.5s - cam wear. Look at it as an oppertunity to get a new timing chain set & aftermarket cam that would give the car a little more umph.
I used to own a Rover 3500S (2001) and I got a camshaft & lifters through Competition Cams for a little over $200.

 

[rotoflex]

I also think that a camshaft problem is actually the excuse to add whoopee with a hotter cam.

Iskenderian & Crane don't show TR8 cams on their websites. Who offers a hotter TR8 cam?

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Cams are definitely their weak point. As Brad says, "carpe diem" and get a street cam and new chain/gears. HUGE improvement.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

I also think that a camshaft problem is actually the excuse to add whoopee with a hotter cam.

Iskenderian & Crane don't show TR8 cams on their websites. Who offers a hotter TR8 cam?

The one I got from Woody is a Sig Erson cam.

 

[Tinkerman]

Ya know, diagnostics are everything. You have changed a number of parts already. Changing a cam and lifters is not an evening project. There has to be a way to determine what the problem is before you get into the spiral of replacing everything under the hood chasing the elusive fix. Hopefully some one of our members can give you some direction to find the precise problem and what the fix is. I know nothing about the TR-8 so I'm not the guy. If another BCF member doesn't come forward maybe you can get some help from the net.
Just some thoughts, good luck, Tinkerman

 

[14dna]

Have you done a vacuum test on the engine? By that, I mean, putting a guage on a line to see what vacuum you have at idle. It should be around 18 inches at idle and very steady.As I'm a m unfamiliar with 3.5s, I don't know how easy valve covers come off. If the cam is bad, take the covers off and watch the rocker arms. you should easily see lots of movement. A local person should know enough to tell you if it's OK, if you are not sure of your own diagnosis. I'm here most evenings, mid afternoon for you, so send lots of questions and I'll help all I can
Dave
P.S. send by pm if you want

 

[Cheapsnake]

Another vote for the cam, but as stated above, don't just take our word for it. Measure the lift against specs to verify whether it's good or bad. Your shop shouldn't have any problem with this and if they've dealt with 8's before they already know that cam wear is a problem in these engines.

And, of course if it is time for new cam, you might as well make the change worth your time and put something in that gives you a little more kick in the pants. Besides, that cam lope is sooooo cool.

Tom

 

[YankeeTR]

After you change the cam I'd heed all the warnings about using those 'new' oils in this engine...I wouldn't doubt that oil is what screwed up the cam...

 

[tdskip]

You guys are great - I really appreciate the help and coaching.

I was really hoping that fixing the fuel flow issues would get me to a point where she was OK enough to drive for a while, but that didn't happen.

I'm going to change out the coil (old and cheap to replace) since there does seem to be break-up when she gets hot and doesn't like to pull above 3500 RPM, but I think I'm just putting off the inevitable.

I've never pulled a motor before, and am not confident that I have the skills to actually make it better rather than worse.

Being in CA I need to worry about SMOG, do you think a different cam will case SMOG issues?

 

[Cheapsnake]

Actually, I don't think you need to pull the engine for a cam change. At most, you might have to break it loose to give it a tiltup to clear the hood opening. Once again, check with Woody. He's probably done cam changes in his sleep.

As for the smog issue...???

Tom

 

[PATR8]

Don't give up on the 8 yet. Woody's first comment to me when I told him I was getting an eight and asked him what to do first he strongly suggest a cam and timing chain/roller. He sent me a mid range cam and it has the big old lopping sound to it at an idle... and the eight is by far the easiest engine I ever pulled (or should I say dropped) you have 4 sub frame bolts, block the subframe and lift the car off the engine.... As a Novice I pulled the engine in an evening and with the manual (and lots of calls to Woody) and had the engine apart in a week end. I went major repairs, new cam, new pistons (From Ted) roller chain, headers. 30,000 miles later she still sound fast

 

[tdskip]

Given that my DPO hacked the ignition system and bypassed the ballast register, then if I'm going to install a new coil (to see if my current coil is breaking down once hot/warmed up) I can simply install a new Lucas Sport Coil. Yes?

 

[tdskip]

Never mind - I figure it out. Thanks!

 

[Bob Claffie]

Why not rewire the ballast resistor back into the circuit? Also,I think changing the coil is just wishful thinking and won't do much for bad compression. Before changing $$ mega parts give us the compression figures. Did you do it hot or cold? Did you block the throttle open? Did you try adding a little oil thru the plug holes? (To check bad rings). A bad lifter could hang a valve open / or keep one closed, that seems more likely than a cam to me. Bob

 

[tdskip]

Yeah, if only the compression issue was a simple as a coil!

I know the coil won't help the compression, but there are a couple of issues I'm sorting out and it appears that the coil is breaking down when it gets hot.

The motor needs to come at least partially apart to deal with the compression issue, but I'm hoping I can get her to a stable drivable point in the near term...

Thanks!

 

[DieselBrad673]

I also think that a camshaft problem is actually the excuse to add whoopee with a hotter cam.

Iskenderian & Crane don't show TR8 cams on their websites. Who offers a hotter TR8 cam?

Try it using a Buick 215 cam or 3.5 V8. I even dropped in a GM HEI distributor from a 77 Buick Lesabre 350 right into my Rovers 3.5 - worked great !