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Aluminum Radiator

GilsTR

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Thinking of looking for a aluminum radiator for the TR3A.
For those who have done this....where did you find the best deal. Not in any rush...probably would be a project for this Winter. Have looked at the Wizzard site. Any help appreciated. Gil NoCal
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Gil,

Bought mine from Art Lipp with the Spal fan installed.

img_0312.jpg


img_0308.jpg


Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 

JKB1957

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I installed a Wizard Alum rad in my TR3A a couple of years ago. Works great. Installation was straight forward, and Wizard was very easy to deal with.
 

DNK

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Seems to me I been starting to hear ramblings about problems just starting to pop up about them.
Not necessarily the TR3 ones
 

RedTR3

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Hi Gil, I got mine direct from Wizard. I already had a SPAL electric fan so I purchased the radiator only. I am very pleased so far...fit perfectly and it solved my overheating problems. Even last week when temps were at 100 degrees in Northern Cal, my gauge never went over 185.
 

JerryVV

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Read all that you can about Electrolysis and aluminum radiators before you decide. I know of at least one that developed many pin holes because of it.
 

TRTEL

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Consider using one of the Japanese manufacturers OEM coolants. All the domestic brands were okay back in the copper age, but just don't believe any of them are as stable as the nissan, honda and I suppose Toyota stuff. Have drained my nissan twice at about a 100k each time and the radiator still looks clean at 276. The only time I got burned was with my son's maxima beater. When we bought it, we changed the timing belt and water pump at 120 and found it had some orange stuff for coolant. Sadly went with the orange and the radiator went away at 160. I think they've just got better chemistry for keeping mixed metals, from acting like a battery. If you do switch, make sure to flush the bajeebers out it, maybe even disconnecting the heater and flushing it separately as it doesn't takemuch contamination to screw things up.
Tom Lains
 

TR3driver

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TRTEL said:
If you do switch, make sure to flush the bajeebers out it, maybe even disconnecting the heater and flushing it separately as it doesn't takemuch contamination to screw things up.

Not sure if it's true or not; but I have read that it is basically impossible to flush the system enough to safely switch to the new additive packages. For example:
https://www.stlaroc.com/features/dexcool.html
 

6TTR3A

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Mr. Lourd,
What is the purpose of the opening next to the top hose neck? (the one you have your thumb on on the rear view??)
Frank
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Hi Frank, That is where the sensor goes to the relay to turn the fan on at 185 F. It also has a manual switch. Cheers, M. Pied Lourd
 

6TTR3A

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Thanks for the quick answer...Someone mentioned once of the need for a diode (?) to offset
electrolysis (????) That's what I thought I was looking at. You must have requested that when you had Wizard put your radiator together?
Frank
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Yes I did. Aluminum Rad/Spal fan and control unit. Cheers, M. Pied Lourd
 

6TTR3A

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Re: Aluminum Radiator & cooling system in general

Boy, I got to reading all the other comments re: Aluminum radiators, anti-freeze, etc.
It's kind of like modern motor oil for solid lifters & steel seats.. no matter what you do it's wrong !
All right, so where can I find old fashioned "Blu-Col" type anti-freeze, or its equivalent in the United States? The manager at my local parts store got the "deer in the headlights" look when I asked him, but then again he was born after I retired !!
The UK still sells it, but it's a "restricted article" (ORM D it think) so it comes by ship!
I'd kind of like to have some by the 2015 Spring Equinox.
I live close to Mexico but don't speak Spanish that well. My understanding is if a car is that old , they don't even bother with anti-freeze. (water only, altho they do shy away from sea water except in emergencies!)

 
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