TR2/3/3A "60" TR-3A - fan extension

[midnight]

I run an electric fan (puller - mounted between the radiator and the engine). I had to change the fan belt recently - due to the lack of clearence between the electric fan and the fan extension on the crankshaft, it became a 6 hour job - remove supports for bumper uprights, remove grill, disconnect turn signal wiring, remove oil cooler and lines, and finally release electric fan from its' mounts - my question - what are the issues, if any, with removing the fan extension from the crank shaft and running without it ? midnight

 

[martx-5]

I went with the narrow belt conversion which includes a crank damper. See link below...

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=52039

I'm pretty sure that I bought it from British Frame & Engine, not Moss. Same item, same price.

https://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html

 

[TR3driver]

Many people will tell you that the damper is required; but I ran for many years without it. The only issue I had was that, on the second motor where I removed the extension, the flat washer did not clamp the hub tightly enough (came up partially against the end of the crank) and the hub eventually worked it's way loose.

I'm still running without the extension, but now I have a filler piece that fits around the nose of the crank so all the clamping force from the big center bolt goes against the hub (and gear behind it, etc.). I made mine from a cast iron pipe cap, but there are several sources of more sophisticated pieces.

But if I were going roundy-round racing (where engine rpm may exceed 5000 for substantial lengths of time), I'd do something for a damper. I've seen the broken cranks, so I do believe the problem is real under those conditions.

 

[midnight]

Thanks - can this change be made without pulling the front-end, can i pull the pulley off the crank?

 

[TR3driver]

It might be marginally possible if you still have a crank hole; but my suggestion would be to bite the bullet and pull the front apron. The original center bolt has deliberately rounded corners on the head and should be really tight, so you need to get a socket and breaker bar (or better yet impact wrench) on it. Mighty tough even after taking the radiator mounts loose and moving it as far forward as possible.

 

[midnight]

Randall - I have had the bolt out through the crank hole in the radiator - also, I have had the crank extension off the crank - not easy, but doable - can I pull the pulley off the crank is my greatest concern - thanks - miles

 

[TR3driver]

Getting the hub off should be doable, with the bolt & extension out of the way. Usually they will slide off by just pulling with one hand while tapping with a brass hammer, or maybe some gentle prying while tapping.

I used Loctite to mount mine, though, as the crank nose was worn undersize from a previous misadventure. To get it off, I had to stick a suitable bolt in the end of the crank (ISTR it was 5/8 NF but don't quote me on that) and use a harmonic balancer puller. I originally borrowed the puller at Kragen, then later bought my own. You'll also need some longer bolts & flat washers to fit the holes in the hub; about 1/4" by 4" IIRC (but again you need to check that).

 

[midnight]

Randall - thank you for your experience - this sound like it will be a winter project - Miles

 

[Mike62TR3]

would something like a fan elimination kit help. gets rid of the fan completely since you already have an electric fan. discussions with TRF and Moss both indicated better performance when you don't have both an engine fan and electrical fan. here is a sample. Mike E 62 TR3A.

https://www.pattonmachine.com/Fan-Eliminator-Kit.htm.