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TR4/4A broken trans fork pin

Dash

Senior Member
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I was going to replace the oil seals in the trans but discovered the pin that attaches the fork to the cross shaft is broken about 1/4" past the threads..Just wondering if anyone has ever had any luck getting what's left of the pin out? It's almost an impossible angle to try to work with so I'm thinking the shaft will have to be cut.. part 2 of that question is what to use to cut the shaft with..I'm guessing an angle grinder...? However if anyone has had any luck getting the pin out I would greatly appreciate the trick you used..
Thanks
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Pretty much the same: What I did was to mentally project a line through the center of the pin to the surface of the fork. Put a dimple there with a center punch, holding the punch square to the surface. Start drilling at the dimple, again square to the surface (which is a substantial angle to the axis of the pin). Once the drill has penetrated the surface, gradually turn until it is aligned with the pin and finish the hole. Then line up the hole in the shaft and use a pin punch to drive out the remains of the pin. ISTR I used a 5/32" drill and a 1/8" pin punch.

Wound up replacing the shaft for other reasons, but I'm still using that fork today, something like 20 years later. The extra hole doesn't seem to bother it a bit.

I did add a 1/4" bolt as reinforcement, though (as also outlined in the Buckeye article). Probably not needed, that original pin lasted many decades, but there's been a lot of talk about replacement pins not lasting as long, so it seemed like cheap insurance.
 
OP
D

Dash

Senior Member
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Thanks Guys!! greatly appreciate that solution.. I was, however, so looking forward to ripping the trans bell to shreds w/the grinder..
 

KVH

Darth Vader
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I tried getting my broken pin out, too, and it was impossible. I gave up and ordered a new fork. Rather than use an angle grinder I went to a little known, high-end specialty store that imports most of its products from overseas, called "Harbor Freight" and bought one of those pneumatic cutting tools, much smaller, and with a long neck, and while it took longer, I felt I had more control and less risk of flying into the bell housing. I also ordered new fork bushings and tapped those in.

(Sorry for the lame humor on HF. Love that place)
 

sp53

Yoda
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I have drilled them out with success, but sometimes it is difficult to eye ball were to drill. Sometimes you can take a 5 pound hammer and knock the fork back and forth and then around in a circle. This will shear what is left of the pin off and then the tap the fork off the shaft.
 
OP
D

Dash

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I was looking at the thing and the pin center is offset from the base of the tine closer to the outside. To center the drill bit I would have to start farther up on the tine, as it curves outward, and actually drill longways through the tine. That would really be tough to drill..I understand what tr3driver was saying about starting out at an angle then raising the drill perpendicular to the shaft but it would still be offset from pin center if I start at the base of the tine...Did you guys start there or farther up on the tine?
I guess with a large enough hole I would catch at least some part of the pin so that a 1/8 " pin punch would catch enough of it to drive out...?
 

Geo Hahn

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I have never done this but did save a picture of someone's successful attempt:

Clutchforkrepair_zpsbfgnnruj.jpeg


Again, not mine. It does appear that a second hole was at least partially drilled - I do not know if that was a false start or if it was done to enable the primary hole to be drilled at a very oblique angle.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Yes, I started partway up the tine; in line with the center of the pin. Sorry, didn't own a digital camera back then.
 
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D

Dash

Senior Member
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Shazaam Fellas..it worked!!! Wasn't really all that hateful..Hole wasn't perfectly centered but close enough.Started with 1/8" bit and tried to feel when the bit passed through the fork but once it hit the pin piece it shot through like butter. Actually drilled a hole through the pin itself (pretty soft material for what it's suppose to do)..Anyway had to move up a couple bit sizes to open the hole in the fork base enough to get a punch on the pin since there was now a hole all the way through it. However I ain't complaining..just a happy greasy slob..Haven't decided if I will replace the fork yet..except for the extra hole it's in good shape.
Thanks again
 

sail

Darth Vader
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Happy Greasy Slob :smile: Me too. Got mine out and saw no reason not to use the old fork. Had a guy with a drill press put in a new hole for a bolt.
 

Geo Hahn

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... Had a guy with a drill press put in a new hole for a bolt.

Drill press is no doubt better - but I just used a hand-held drill on mine as I was working in situ. Used a ¼" grade 8 bolt with a shank long enough to go through the hole w/o having threads inside it - had to shorten the threaded portion of course.

crossbolt_zps3830c4ec.jpg


I recall when I removed the pin from that cross arm it was not broken but had a decided bend in it. Probably did not have long to live like that.
 

mrv8q

Luke Skywalker
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Good pic, Geo!
 
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