Weak Headlights ???

[George Zeck]

I am begining some "minor upgrades" to my car while waiting for the engine // tranny. I was quite unhappy with the current lighting setup. It is: 7" 60/40W bulbs (replaced < 6 mo).

My plan was to go with JC Whitney 7" headlamp upg set, 135/90w H4 halogen's and relay and new fuse box. All to go with the new generator to altenator conversion for more juice.

I was dissapointed when I got the "kit" -- cheap plastic with a "For H4 55/60W bulb use only" sticker on them. No indication of this in the catalog / website.

My question is: Am I really gaining much going to this bulb (smaller than anticipated bulb) versus what I have in the "old style" glass sealed units (which are halogen, but not H4 whatever that is) ??

I am happy to buy better "housing" units but will have to hunt a bit since nothing I saw after a google search had the max bulb wattages on them. Any advice and direction here would be appreciated.

Am I doing a lot of work for little return ??

Also -- doing positive ground to negative earth conversion, switch to petronix ele ignition, new petronix coil, convert to altenator. Since I've heard that electrical issues were common w/ Spridgets -- I thought I'd start to update some of the items when it was easy (no engine).

Tx-

George Zeck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Bugeye58]

George, I'm running Hella "Vision Plus" lamps on three of my cars. Two are equipped with a generator, and one has an alternator. I think they are fantastic. I like a lot of light, and these fill the bill.
They take an HB2 bulb, that comes with the lamp.
I bought mine from Victoria British, and they run about $100 a set.
Here's the link to Hella, for more information.

https://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPor...Vision_Plus.jsp
Jeff

 

[piman]

Hello both,
are there no regulations in America regarding maximum headlight rating?. The UK law allows a maximum of 60 watt and I find that halogen headlamps of this rating give a very adequate amount of light. Excessively high rated headlamps can be a nightmare for the traffic that has to meet it, especially in wet conditions. I feel you ought to take that in to consideration.

Alec

 

[Bugeye58]

Yes, Alec, there are regulations regarding maximum allowable wattage. The HB2 bulbs I referenced above are 60/55W, and are legal nationwide. The maximum permissible wattage, per the federal standard for that type bulb, is 72/65W, but some states have a more stringent limit, hence the 60/55W rating.
The National Highway Transportation Safety Administration is also formulating new standards for glare, with the onset of HID lamps.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108 is the standard regarding exterior lighting which covers items such as max output, aiming, glare reduction, etc.
Aren't you sorry you asked!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff

 

[Bugeye58]

George, to expand a bit on my earlier response, you will see a significant difference in the light produced by the H4 lamps over the sealed beam Halogen type. The bulb is a separate unit, and both the bulb and reflector are designed for maximum output even at the 60/55W rating. The H4 is just the bulb type. (H4, HB2, and 9003 are interchangeable bulbs.)
I haven't used a relay on any of mine, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. I'll probably go back and install one, but I've been running without one for at least 6 years on one of the cars with nary a problem. That's on the '65 with positive ground, using the original harness and headlight switch. I'm probably asking for trouble!
Anything you buy with a plastic housing is going to be rated for 60W maximum. But, as I mentioned to Alec, anything over that and you're asking for a ticket!
I hope I haven't confused you too much.
If you need anything else, my friend, just ask.
Jeff

 

[George Zeck]

Sounds as if my "theory" was faulty in terms of more watts please. I think I'll stick with the 60w guys and get the Hella's. The one's I have just don't seem as if they'd stand up to any type of rock coming at it (or a nasty glance from someone - cheap).

Thanks all.

Geo

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
I am begining some "minor upgrades" to my car while waiting for the engine // tranny.

Also -- doing positive ground to negative earth conversion, switch to petronix ele ignition, new petronix coil, convert to altenator. Since I've heard that electrical issues were common w/ Spridgets -- I thought I'd start to update some of the items when it was easy (no engine).
Tx-
George Zeck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi George,
A suggestion. You are planning several changes. Do them one at a time & thoroughly check out the results before going on to the next modification. If you do the changes all at once, & something doesn't work, it can be a nightmare to determine which change did the dirty work. Also, I have found that system polarity reversing can sometimes cause electrical contacts to quit working until they are cleaned.
D

 

[Bugeye58]

Very good point, Dave. That's one reason all my cars that were built positive ground, stay that way. If I was starting from scratch, with new components, I'd probably go with Neg. ground, but if it was good enough for Joe Lucas, it's good enough for me.
My God! What have just I said!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Jeff

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Jeff,
The contact problem "may" have something to do with the oxide film buildup on contacts. Maybe it is somehow polarity sensitive.

I DID convert to negative ground when I exchanged the generator for an alternator. The main trouble maker was the turn signal relay box (Big Healey). It worked for a short time & quit. I cleaned all of the contacts & it works now. A couple of bulb connections & a few other items needed to be cleaned also.

George,
This may not apply to your situation. If you have a SU fuel pump, the newer types with diode arc suppression need to have the diode reversed when changing system polarity. If you don't, the diode will blow. No immediate symptoms but the points in the pump won't last long without the diode. If you are "electrically handy" you can reverse the existing diode connections. If not, the Moss # 377-145 diode is for negative ground systems.
D

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Here is a link to a relay kit for the lazy man that values time over money. I haven't decided which is more important to me yet. :-(

I'm not a fan of wiring projects.

https://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3698&prmenbr=361

 

[Trevor Jessie]

https://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?next...p=/halogen.html

I friend of mine used the above units, and was happy with them. They are autopal (discount lighting products made in india I think). I helped him put them in. He didn't use a relay, and I believe that they were steel construction.

I forgot to mention they use a P43T (H4) bulb, so higher wattage bulbs would be an option.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I called him (out of curiousity) to ask what type of bulb. He said he was using an 80/100 W heavy duty bulb sold for ATV's and snowmobiles. Doesn't sound street legal. ;-)
He said he started using them because the stiff suspension on his car really shortened the life of normal bulbs. He said that there are lower wattage heavy duty bulbs available as well.

 

[Bugeye58]

Trevor, here's an excellent source of information on headlights.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

If you really want to dig deep, Google <u>FMVSS 108</u> . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

Seriously, the Daniel Stern site is interesting reading, and clears up a lot of misconceptions. He lists the characteristics of available bulbs, etc.
Jeff

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I have his site bookmarked, and have read portions, but there is alot to digest. I originally bookmarked it for his aiming procedures, but now that I'm thinking about putting a relay in my lighting system and upgrading my old incadescent lamps (Lucas brand). I probably should spend some time doing some reading. I had my share of physics classes, so I think I can follow it OK.