Wedge TR8 roll bars

[tr8todd]

I need to make a couple of roll hoops for TR8s. The first one will be similar to the what Woody sells(kirk racing), but it needs to have a bar for racing seat belts to attach to. The second one needs to fit tightly up against the rear bulkhead. The factory vinyl panel behind the seats will not be reinstalled. Instead, the carpet will run up and over the rear bulkhead after the bar is welded in and painted. In addition to the floor and rear deck mounting points, I want to have side braces that attach under the top frame pivot mounts. They should stiffen up the car considerably. A few months ago, there was talk on this site of having some custom designs made up. Anybody still want one? It's an ordeal just to clear enough space in the garage to bend pipe. The tubing comes in 21 foot lengths. I don't know when I'll have the bender out again.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hey, Todd -

I have a bar for a coupe, but would like one for my DHC. Can't get this one to fit correctly. Let me know...

Mickey

 

[tr8todd]

Why doesn't it fit? Is it too wide? Does it interfere with the top? The first bar I'm making is to replace an old Kirk one that seriously limits seat travel. I have to make it land in the same mounting locations as the old bar, but bend it tighter to the rear panel. The guy who owns the car is 6'3" and 235#. He needs all the seat travel he can get.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Don't remember exactly, but I think the mounting on the rear deck is different - didn't seem to line up properly. I'll have to give it another check to see...

 

[PATR8]

I am looking for one and if you are building one let me know.... I am getting ready to trade an old coupe body and 3.45 for a standard roll bar and some store credit. I have been dreaming of a double hoop one that fits under my convertiable top. I went ot two local manifactures and they are busy with making stuff for the local dirt track racer and it is prime season for them. What do you think cost would be and do you have a pic what they may look like. Dang, wonder what shipping would run.

 

[tr8todd]

I have dies for 1.5 and 1.75 tubing. The die for the 1.5 has a bend radius of 4.5 inches. The 1.75 die has a bend radius of 5.5 inches. The bend radius needs to be at least 3 times the diameter of the tube to prevent kinking. A double hoop would probably look better in the 1.75 tubing. That would leave a spread of 11 inches between the legs of the hump if you had a true 180 degree bend. There are so many possibilities with a double hump design. You would have to draw something and send it to me. It would look cool if you did away with the center arm rest box and had each hump attach to the tranny tunnel and to the floor. You could also do a couple of real short petty bars on the sides of the outer edges of the hump. Then add a horizontal bar for belts that runs behind the hoops. Materials should be around $100 for a double hump. It will probably take 4 to 6 hours to make. When making a bar for a vert, I like to do away with the plastic covers for the folding top frame. It allows you to push the sides of the bar out a little more.

 

[tr8todd]

Here is a picture of the bar I made up this weekend. It welds to the floor, the sides behind the doors, and onto the top of the rear deck.