TR2/3/3A TR3A Inner Sill Repair Question/Advice

[tdskip]

Did you do those stampings Greg?

 

[ekamm]

Give me some best ways and tools to 1. Cut out the old/bad metal 2. cut patch panels

I've tried to use a pneumatic cutoff and seems too slow and difficult to get into tight places. I kinda wonder if my disc is too thick? I have used a dremel with success, but the discs don't last and are expensive to replace.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Eric,

I have been using a combination of tools.

I have an air cut off tool (3 1/2 "), a dremel (I use the re-inforced cutting wheels, they last a little longer), a Dewalt 4 1/2 inch gringer and thin cutting wheel, tin snips, mini hack saw etc....

For tight spots, I use the dremel, other times, I use the air cut off tool. To cut my patches, I am using the Dewalt for longger straight cuts and the dremel for tighter cuts. I use the tin snips to do tight corners etc.

I was thinking about buying some air shears and will do so if I run into a situation where I think that I might need them.

I have also use an air chisel with a cutting tip to cut out sections of the floor for example. Not pretty, but it works.

So, I guess the answer is, everything in the arsenal! Be safe though and don't try using a tool that wasn't meant for the job. If it seems unsafe, then it proabably is.

Cheers,
David

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, I saw the 4.5" angle grinder in the HF sale flyer recently for just $15. Might be just me, but it seems easier to control than an air cutoff tool, and cuts faster to boot. Seems to be $20 on the web site though, so maybe it was just the local store that had them marked down further.
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91223

As David says, though, there is no one tool that is best in all situations.

 

[tdskip]

As the guys have said you'll want multiple tools. I use an electric angle grinder with a 4.5 <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">thin</span></span> cutting disc. Very nice to work with, fast and makes nice cuts.

As said don't forget your Dremel and snips, as they can reach places the bigger tools can't.

 

[GregW]

Did you do those stampings Greg?

Yes, but they aren't stamped. I used a bead roller, which wound up stretching the metal some. Then a shrinker to bring it back flat.

 

[tdskip]

Very nice work Greg, very nice.

 

[GregW]

I am going to look for some thing a little thicker, the problem being that the places that I have found to buy metal don't offer the widest size selection. What do you or anyone else think about that?

Hi Eric,
A couple thoughts. Grainger might have what you need. I see they have 3/64" (about 18ga) in different sizes up to 2'x4'. They want an arm and leg for the stuff though. You might also call around to air conditioning installers. Some of them bend their own sheet metal. They usually work with galvanized (which you don't want), but you might sweet talk them into ordering some cold rolled steel for you. Lots of sheet metal places up in Kansas City, if you happen to trek up there.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Don't know if anyone has the same experience, but I thought that I would share it.

Once of the first things that I did when I was contemplating doing some metal work on my car was to buy a metal thickness gauge.

I find that when shopping for sheet metal (at least the various stores that I have been too) I find that the metal is often incorrectly marked either with a label/felt marker etc.

I find it very beneficial to take along the thickness gauge when I am shopping for sheetmetal just to check and be sure.

Cheers,
David

 

[PatGalvin]

I bought 18 and 20 gauge steel off EBay before I found it locally. Was pretty economical for relatively small pieces that I used for patch panels.

Check out: https://stores.ebay.com/ASSOCIATED-METAL-PRODUCTS

There are several midwest metal warehouses that sell cold rolled sheet steel that is probably exactly what you need for these repairs.

Pat

 

[ekamm]

I went to Lowes yesterday and bought a 2'x2' 16 gauge for $30, a little high I thought but that should be enough for what I need. I have found a steel place in town where you can get scrap (a lot of which is new from fabricators) or get new steel but the sizes were too big for me.

 

[Deleted member 15903]

Hi Guys,

I have a 1958 TR3A that I am going to have to replace the inner sill, footwell panel, and floors. I am new to restoring a car and have not done mig welding before. I purchased a Hobart 140 mig and want to learn how. Is it better to replace the inner sill before doing the footwells?

Thanks, Gary

 

[Don Elliott]

Gary - E-mail me and I'll forward you the photos of all the steps when I did mine. I just completed this for another TR3A restorer today.

Anyone else want a copy, just ask.

My address :- 58tr3a@videotron.ca

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

 

[tr3guy]

Do you remember what gauge metal was used to repair your inner sills?

Thanks
Jim

 

[PatGalvin]

I used 18 or 20 gauge for all my panel repairs on the TR3. 16 Gauge will be quite thick if you need to bend or shape the metal much. I found that 20 gauge was often just fine and much easier to work with. I bought a 4x8 sheet of metal from a local metal shop and had them cut it down into four 2x4 foot pieces. I have two left and used two for all the patch panels.

 

[CJD]

The original inner sills were closest to 16 gage.