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TR2/3/3A TR3A Inner Sill Repair Question/Advice

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Bit more practicing welding this morning.

I think that it is starting to look a little better. This is 20 Guage Metal.

Top

P1070063.jpg


Bottom

P1070061.jpg


The center one is the best and has the best penetration as you can see in the photos.

Looking better?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
I don't want to sound like a "spoil sport" but may I suggest that you cut a scrap piece off your parts car where the old panel may be a bit thinner because of some surface rust, then sand off the paint and surface rust, then put a new piece of 20 gauge sheetmetal edge-to-edge and practice some more welding. The old rusty piece will spit and crackle where there is still a bit of oxide (rust) even if you can't see it, and where the older bit has become a bit thinner, it may burn through. This will more realistic and it would be better to try this on the bench before you get surprised when you do the final work on your TR.
 
You definitly have excellent penetration, As Don stated, it is more difficult to weld new metal to old. It helps to place a piece of copper behind the joint when possible. The copper provides a heat sink and allows you to build up weld when burn thru occurs.
 
The copper also works great when you're trying to fill a hole in with weld. I had holes in my boot lid from a luggage rack that I wanted to fill in, and I flattened out a piece of copper tubing to back up the holes. It worked great.
 
Dave - You mentioned very early about plug welding. Well, if you have a hole to weld closed, or if you accidentally burn a hole through, let it cool and come back later. Bit by bit you can add thickness all around the hole, then you can "puddle" the wire rod into liquid in towards the center of the hole till it's all closed. After letting it cool, you can grind and sand it smooth and it can look perfect.
 
Thanks Everyone,

Will definately keep practicing before I try it out on the car. Good Ideas/suggestions from all and I will put them into action.

Cheers,
Dave
 
[broken record on] Just remember that tack welds and angle grinders are your friend! [/broken record off]

You going to be able to keep practicing over the weekend? Have you tried shaping the patch panels yet?
 
Morning Skip,

Have one panel made that fits quite well. Will be making one more small one today.

Started stripping the paint off the body yesterday to get down to bare metal so I can have a look at everything. So far so good.

Will post some pics later.

PS, recieved first of two packages to fix my compressor.....I really miss not having one. Almost bought another smaller one yesterday that I saw on sale for 1/2 price but resisted the urge....

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Getting close Tush, getting close. Can you post a picture of the patch panel in place? How are you planning on securing it while you do the tack welds?

I totally understand on the compressor - the airplane shop across the way at the hanger has a full tilt boogie blasting set up that I used on the brake backing plates for the TR6 and wow, I'm screwed now. It was so fast and easy to handle - totally addictive.
 
Pop rivets or magnets work great to fit and hold patch panels during tack welding. I bought a box of cheap magnets on eBay for about $10 and they are super strong. Great for butt welds.

pop rivets let you trial fit panels. I've use a bunch of those too

and then there are Cleco Fasteners which I can't live without for panel replacement
 
Hi Pat,

Been using welding magnets and they do work great...have them in various sizes as well.

Thanks for the tips.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
I was taught the pulse weld technique by a friend who owns a body shop and does alot of restoration work. I was working for him on rustbucket Mustang. There is a video on this page that illustrates the technique. this There is alot of good info if you look around the site, including a fair amount about restorations.
 
You guys have it all over us carpenters. My idea of metal work is installing a set of hinges on a cabinet. thank god my GT6 was in storage all these years, as I have mostly done spot filling and sanding.
 
PatGalvin said:
Pop rivets or magnets work great to fit and hold patch panels during tack welding. I bought a box of cheap magnets on eBay for about $10 and they are super strong. Great for butt welds.

pop rivets let you trial fit panels. I've use a bunch of those too

and then there are Cleco Fasteners which I can't live without for panel replacement
Click to expand...

How do you use pop rivets and Cleco Fasteners on butt welds?
Isn't a butt weld when the two pieces just touch?
Wouldn't these require a overlapping joint?

I'm asking to gain knowledge not to question your knowledge.
 
Clecos and rivets can be used for lap joints.
Sorry if this wasn't clear
pat
 
TRMark said:
I was taught the pulse weld technique by a friend who owns a body shop and does alot of restoration work. I was working for him on rustbucket Mustang. There is a video on this page that illustrates the technique. this There is alot of good info if you look around the site, including a fair amount about restorations.
Click to expand...

Mark-

Thanks for bringing that link to life again- I had seen it before but had lost track of it. It is excellent. I'm quietly watching Pied's work here as I'll need to tackle similar issues later this year.

Randy
 
To bring back another part of this, weld through primer. What is it, what's it for, and would you use it? Someone had said they didn't care for the results.
 
Hi Eric,

It is supposed to do a couple of things.

1. Supposed to help in conductivity during welding (High in Zinc)....also supposed to reduce distortion and welding splatter (although I have heard the opposite)

2. I am using it to mainly help prevent future rust and corrosion in and behind the areas where I am welding.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
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