TR2/3/3A TR3 Front end rebuild

[prb51]

Guys/Gals,
I'm rebuilding the front end suspension on my 56. A few questions.
I measured the trunion end play (thru the lower susp arms/bearing area) before disassembly and found it to be .05 (no coil spring tension) seemed a bit loose but the car ran straight without shake, what do you think? I know I'm to tighten everything under load and will do so just asking about a starting point. What is the end play required under load?
Can one remove the steering box drop arm while it is in place ( lower seal replacement while it's exposed) and what tool has been used, it seems to have flanges cast in place for that purpose.
The fit for the trunion/bearing sleeve once pressed in place. Smooth slide on with no wobble/ slide fit finger pressure, is this about right?
Can this be pressed in place without a press before reaming, if so how?
Finally, (for today) I remember a post about tightening the axle nut (diff than my early manual) and if I remember correctly it's to 10 ftlbs. and then back off a flat? Is that correct?
So far the only thing that looked overly worn was the upper inner rubber bushes, all else was pretty nice but now I know for sure.
Thanks, as you can tell my first front end rebuild for the 3.

 

[Harry_Ward]

Guys/Gals,
I'm rebuilding the front end suspension on my 56. A few questions.
I measured the trunion end play (thru the lower susp arms/bearing area) before disassembly and found it to be .05 (no coil spring tension) seemed a bit loose but the car ran straight without shake, what do you think? I know I'm to tighten everything under load and will do so just asking about a starting point. What is the end play required under load?
Can one remove the steering box drop arm while it is in place ( lower seal replacement while it's exposed) and what tool has been used, it seems to have flanges cast in place for that purpose.
The fit for the trunion/bearing sleeve once pressed in place. Smooth slide on with no wobble/ slide fit finger pressure, is this about right?
Can this be pressed in place without a press before reaming, if so how?
Finally, (for today) I remember a post about tightening the axle nut (diff than my early manual) and if I remember correctly it's to 10 ftlbs. and then back off a flat? Is that correct?
So far the only thing that looked overly worn was the upper inner rubber bushes, all else was pretty nice but now I know for sure.
Thanks, as you can tell my first front end rebuild for the 3.

Probably easier if this was broken out seperately because I know I'm gonna forget something...but here go's,


Trunnion end play .004 to .012 inch but more importantly check that the suspension moves freely up and down.

Steering box drop arm cannot be removed with the steering box in place. The box needs to be removed from the car. That is to say that I couldn't get the drop arm seperated from the rocker shaft or silent block bush when I did mine so I had to remove it anyway. It is alot easier to work on, on the bench anyway. Scribe a line for reattachment later. Do not hammer on the rocker or drop arm it wil cause indents in the cam or conical stud. After you fit the seal cover the rocker shaft & spline with masking tape to protect the seal.

Trunnion bearing bush (sleeve) slide on, smooth, no wobble, hand fit, is correct.

I do not recall reaming the trunnion bushings but the whole assembly once it's all put back together has to move freely with no binding. Best way I can describe it. I installed the trunnion bushing with the eight inch vice using some sockets and flat washers. A bushing removal/install tool would probably work just as well.

10 ft/lbs. correct then back 1 1/2 to 2 flats to get the split pin on. I found that to be useless and just kept pulling the hub on and off to eliminate the free play with the tire on. That was fun!

 

[Tinkerman]

Harry I think that the only time you ream the trunnion bushings is if your replacing with new ones. At least that my several manuals said and the way I remember it is best to use a special jig. I think TVR had a tech video, don't know if they still send them out to members or not.

 

[PeterK]

If you have the lower arms off, this is the time to press out the trunnion bushings from the arms and press in new ones.

After the new ones are in, either have them fit to the trunnon pins by a machinist, or buy a $15 adjustable reamer and do it yourself.

DIY - Just remember to set the reamer to scape out to fit, a little at a time. If you set the reamer too large, it will be hard to keep it straight and will leave marks in the bushing. I use mine with the action of a tap - ||twist in a little, back out, then twist in, back out, etc. just barely scraping, adjust an increment larger then repeat|| Keep checking the fit, don't want to over ream them.

 

[PlaidMan]

PeterK, where can I find one of those adjustable reamers? Thanks, Charlie.

 

[prb51]

Thanks for the info all.
I figured I couldn't replace the seal on the steering box when in place but had to ask. I may just suffer the minor leak as I'm using the heavy penrite fluid and it just seeps some.
I am replacing the lower outer bushings and have reamed one out already. I purchased a 5/8 reamer from ENCO - non adjustable ( a tip on this site) for $12 I think and it worked perfectly with the susp arm in a vice. Nice smooth fit and much tighter than the worn bearings.
I was surprised at the good condition of most everything in the susp system. The only thing really worn were the upper inner rubber bushes (and they only on the exposed element) but you never know until you have it apart and I believe the last rebuild was around 8 to 9 years ago.

 

[Don Elliott]

The front suspension on my 1958 TR3A has always squeaked when I drive on a rough road that cause small bounces. It did it in its first life (80,350 miles) before my restoration from 1987 to 1990. I replaced everything up front except for the idler arm at that time and for the next 94,000 miles, it squeaked. I added silicone and teflon spray lubricant liberally but that didn't help. So in the spring of 2007, I re-did it all again with new parts including a new idler arm but kept the same trunnions as they were still like new. During the first 600 miles or so (drove Montreal to Philadelphia for VTR) I thought I had resolved the squeaks up front. But they came back - louder than before.

Any ideas ?

 

[PeterK]

PeterK, where can I find one of those adjustable reamers? Thanks, Charlie.

I got mine from https://www.victornet.com/

Search their site for "Expanding Reamers (Hand Adjustable)"

This is the size you need for trunnions.
HS Steel Adjustable Blade Reamers
$14.40 C HS Steel Adjustable Blade Reamer C 19/32"-21/32"

 

[prb51]

Don,
No suggestions, did you use rubber or an alternate material?
I'm rebuilding with the TRF 'magic kit' with the teflon bushings although I must say the rubber held up extremely well.
I'm wondering about squeeks too as I've heard that the other than rubber elements can be noisy although there was no noise as I worked the suspension (sans coils spring) by hand. We'll see.
The tolerances seem a bit tighter with the teflon as it doesn't 'give' as much as the rubber but I am enjoying the process and one understands the system once taken down.
I'm awaiting a new idler arm to do the other side.
As to the reamers for the lower outer bearings; 5/8ths in. non adjustable work just right and you don't have to worry about the sizing/adjustment, mine came out smooth and tight, easy turning with no slop.

 

[Don Elliott]

I used bushings made from poly-something or other for the top inner wishbone instead of the original rubber ones. I replaced the rubber ones with rubber twice and now twice with the alternative bushings. I always got squeaks.

I used to say jokingly when asked about the squeaks, that they are all like that and it was really hard to duplicate that squeak as authentically as it was originally when it left the factory.

 

[DNK]

Put anti seize on the bushing, Will keep the squeaks to a min.

 

[PeterK]

Don,

I can mail you a glob of Prothane superlube for the poly bushings. I bought a 10oz tube and have plenty. Just PM me your address.

 

[MDCanaday]

More quick tips on the steering box....dont forget to pop out the conical pin and turn it 90deg, so it rides more smoothly in its worm groove. In the lower part of the box around the bushing, pack in an ounce of wheelbearing grease it will stop any other lubes from even getting down to the seal(cant leak at all!!)
MD(mad dog)

 

[Don Elliott]

I have seen these tapered pins in TR parts suppliers' catalogs, so I assume they are available. But they are a devil to change. On the green TR3A we did in 2006, we turned the pin 90 degrees like you suggested.

On my own steering gearbox, I put in a new spring-loaded adjusting peg that I bought in England. The spring holds it correct at center, but as you turn the steering wheel towards the end locks, the spring compresses to allow it all to work nicely even at the end of the locks. Mine has been in since 1992 and it fixes all the problems I had before.

Herman Van den Akker in So. Calif. has been making and selling these. Contact Herman at : -

handhvan AT msn DOT com

https://www.blindmoosefab.com/hvda.htm