TR2/3/3A TR3 Front End Rebuild

[Mkutz]

I'll shortly be undertaking a complete rebuild of my TR3's front end (steering and suspension) and was wondering if anyone has practical advice about any nuances or common slip ups to be avoided. Thanks!

 

[markctr3]

I'm right there with you -- if only in spirit. Today I'm going to be dropping the lower A-arms and removing the springs. My steering was VERY tight, and after removing the center link I found out why. The idler arm was virtually frozen solid. The mechanical advantage of the steering wheel/box was enough to move it, but you could not even budge it by hand -- that will be replaced. In addition, I am replacing the upper ball joints, trunions, tie-rods, shocks, ALL bushings, both bump-stops, new rotors and bearings and rebuilding the steering box. If I find anything "unusual", I will let you know.

 

[Banjo]

The rebuild is pretty much straight forward. Make sure you have the repair manual to help you past any rough spots.
Also, either buy from Moss or fabricate the "through the center" type of spring compressor. Trying to use one that clamps from the outside in any way is extremely hard. The spring tower covers around 3/4 of the spring, so anything from the outside can only be attached in a way that causes the spring to arch. That makes it almost impossible to get back in. The "through the center" type works like a charm, and is much less dangerous. It's worth every penny.
Wat I mean by "through the center" is,
You put a jack under the trunnion or "a" arm, rais it up and remove the lower suspension bumper. This allows you to remove the shock, then the spring compressor goes in where the shock used to be.

 

[TRTEL]

Following up on Banjo's recommendation, use at least a 5/8 inch (3/4 is better but cumbersome) threaded rod and keep it all well greased. Over the years I've had a brass bushing sleeved into the top of the idler arm. With closer tolerance it removes a lot of natural slop of the original steel on steel design and is much longer lived. Also have added grease zerks to the inner nylon bushings (cutting a grease channel all the way around the interior radius of the bushing with a dremel). Can guarantee that they will outlive virtually every other wearing part on the car. NOTE TO MARKC: depending on how long it was driving that way, a close inspection of the worm gear is warranted. At the least you might need a new peg, but at worst you might need a new gear. Good luck!
Tom Lains