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TR2/3/3A Tr3 frame work finally

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I expect you matched the boot lock to the key too. I matched my door locks to the key, but then think I disabled the door locks if I remember right. I decided the door locks were a joke when you could easily reach behind the sidescreens?!? One of the little tidbits my Grandfather told me was to never lock a convertible...as then a thief will slit your top in addition to stealing what was inside the car.
 
Not sure I even know where that lock is right now. But I will if I can. I still have to figure out a lot between now and then.


CJD said:
I expect you matched the boot lock to the key too. I matched my door locks to the key, but then think I disabled the door locks if I remember right. I decided the door locks were a joke when you could easily reach behind the sidescreens?!? One of the little tidbits my Grandfather told me was to never lock a convertible...as then a thief will slit your top in addition to stealing what was inside the car.
Click to expand...
 
More work on the center gauge cluster..
9324F440-4F15-4901-B324-18CBC76ACB3E.jpeg
I got the light bezels cleaned up and installed. I went to move the switch over that I had made key for and found this issue
FD9299C4-D190-4DEF-846C-F5B9131631B2.jpeg

I am not imagining that working properly with the back all cracked and broken. I looked for a replacement but the only ones I found have the terminals blades on the back not the screw style like this one. I want to reuse the old keys number but not sure if the cylinder will fit the newer repro housings...
anyone know??

JP
 
I don't think so the bezel on the repro is a different size with a hex nut to hold it to the instrument panel. I would try and rebuild the back of your original, it's a very basic switch and as long as it holds together it should work fine.

Graham
 
JP, I would check with Marv to see if he has an original switch. If you can’t find a good one, I think I can mill a back plate out of Delrin for you.
 
Could you build a form with masking tape and clue the cracks and form the side with JB. They come up sometimes on Ebay. Maybe move to something else for a time. Like John suggest Marv might have something. I moved my key over to a spade connected type some years back when the ignition switch stopped working. Looking good JB, nice to work with something clean, right.
 
5B701A47-38AC-40BE-8F48-945935E0B055.jpeg
Got a few more things figured out with the switches then this happened, apparently there were differences in the d shaped cutouts and sizes..so finally stripped the original one and
got the paint on it...geez
So it looks like the only thing missing is the push button starter switch...:the ignition key has been reconfigured and the key cylinder did move
over...
 
Looks great PJ--- that is how I like to see them--- original. The original dash really sets the car off as a classic. I give a coworker a ride, and he enjoyed how the amp gauge bounded around. Glad to hear the key lock will move over still to the newer housings.

steve
 
OK so here is a question. What is the best way to check these rheostats and clean them so i can make sure they are good?? Does it make sense to try and clean up the original buttons or just buy the reproduction ones???
 
Well I got something done. I sent off my Temp gauge to the professionals for a rebuild, mainly because someone cut the line that runs to the thermostat housing. I also am requesting new seals and gaskets for the other gauges. I will try and clean those up and see how sorry the refurbished gauge makes all the other ones look when it get back. I have ordered some buttons and switches which are on Back order.

So we will be going to celebrate 22 years of saying i do, with the other half......no car work this weekend.
Cheers
 
Well a package came back and it is one step closer....
mlsPmQqm.jpg
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Now it is up to me to figure out how to get these items on in a few other gauges
Looks like a Monday or Tuesday project.....work weekend for me

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Anybody have one of these they want to part with let me know.....

zsHZiDDm.jpg
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Thx
 
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