TR2/3/3A Tr3 frame work finally

[Graham H]

Spot on Tush I always say if you start with nothing and finish up with something you have to be miles in front.

graham

 

[Tr3aguy]

Got another hour in this morning and getting closer...

 

[CJD]

I'm getting excited...it's almost weld time!

 

[Tr3aguy]

Yep and that is when I muck it all up..... hahaha

 

[CJD]

Can't be done...you just cut it a little bigger and do it again.

 

[Tr3aguy]

So today I noticed I had a slight rise at the end which was making it not square.... after some more grinding the fit was much better.
Then I proceeded to coat the interior with some paint and drill for simulated plug welds. I broke out the welder and got two spots welded, took off the vise grips and dropped the piece. It popped right apart..... sigh. Check my settings and moved to a little hotter weld and slower wire feed, that did the trick.





Now here I am test fitting after joining the two pieces



Now I am relaxing cuz the shoulder decided that today I was done. So clamped it on and made a few more adjustments to the fit. It seems crazy how heat from welding will move a part around.



I doubled checked my measurements for height and it was spot on.

All in all a pretty good day in the garage.


JP

 

[sp53]

JP that looks extremely nice. I would have used the plug weld method also. It was how I was taught. I see guys with sheet metal doing a butt stich weld and I am learning that more. IMHO the plug weld gives that lapping strength like in carpentry. Anyways, on my project I am going to use wax oil or some product like that for the inside of the frame and the back of the tub where the tub has those trapped sealed areas; it seems to work well in the climate I live in plus I can put the wax oil in through the holes in the frame on the sides where the brake clips and in other holes anytime and after I am done and in the future; Good job JP!

steve

 

[Tr3aguy]

Ok so I think not too bad for my first time welding in a bit. Finally got it all attached and trimmed up. I do see a few pinholes that will need to be addressed. It is a whole lot better than what I had there....







I have to make a cap for the front and get to the side piece that is missing part of the tube for the rebound bracket for the front suspension.

have a fun day
JP

thanks for all the kind words even thought to me my weld look like hills and valleys!

 

[CJD]

Nice job!

 

[Frank Canale]

JP, Great job, the spot welds look like you got the heat into the bottom piece and should hold just fine. As a welder I am never satisfied with my welds. I always say they could look better. I looked thru my discarded parts that have been repaired and found the area for the bump stops. I rebuilt that area completely and have the old bump stop tubes. If you are interested I will be happy to send them to you. Send me your address in a PM and I will get them on the way. Frank

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Looks better than my repairs. Great job.

Cheers
Tush

 

[sp53]

JP that is super clean; nobody will even know you fixed after it is painted. The end cap piece came from the factory with 3/8 hole drilled in it. Not sure why maybe a vent for moisture, so there are holes all over the frame. Like I said, I use wax-oil for the inside and put it in later. You are almost ready to putting the spring pans back on after you paint and clean up stuff.

For paint on the frame, I used single stage paint for metal that has a zylene base. Sprayed most of it, but brushed it on also in those weird spots. It is inexpensive maybe 45.00 a gallon. Zylene itself has an oil base so you cannot use it to clean metal like you can with lacquer thinner, and you can thin with zylene to help spray it. The zylene paints are easy to work with and stay a little softer, so they do not rock chip and they dry quick. Was that Frame yellow from the factory.

After getting the spring pans on many of the other things fall into place easier. Are your lower wish bones straight? Give them a good eye ball first before you start working on them because they are often bent at least one of them; they hang low and get hit hard.
steve

 

[Tr3aguy]

I am hating this cold snap because it make me not be as motivated in the garage. I am thrifty so I save my file 13 mail in case I need to mock up a part for size. It has to be stiff and decent like card stock. This particular one was “Ford” advertising how they would make a few months of payments for me. Hahah ok





So I save metal of different sizes and I think this one will work just fine!

 

[Tr3aguy]

Franks thanks for the comments, I will send a PM do you by chance have any pictures of the repair work. It is such a tight little space to get in. I would be interested in seeing those.

JP, Great job, the spot welds look like you got the heat into the bottom piece and should hold just fine. As a welder I am never satisfied with my welds. I always say they could look better. I looked thru my discarded parts that have been repaired and found the area for the bump stops. I rebuilt that area completely and have the old bump stop tubes. If you are interested I will be happy to send them to you. Send me your address in a PM and I will get them on the way. Frank

 

[Graham H]

JP, when I made end plugs for the front of my chassis ,the outside edge is folded out all the way round so it forms a doubble thickness and I welded around the outer front edge. If you try and fit a flat plate inside the rail you won't be able to dress your weld after, I think the end plate may have been originaly spot welded at the factory.

Graham

 

[Tr3aguy]

I am not sure I completely believe that David but thanks for the fuel to keep me going!

Looks better than my repairs. Great job.

Cheers
Tush

 

[Tr3aguy]

Not sure I completely understand what you mean by folded out. Do you have a closer picture of the piece you made? You frame looks spectacular? Is it finished now?

JP, when I made end plugs for the front of my chassis ,the outside edge is folded out all the way round so it forms a doubble thickness and I welded around the outer front edge. If you try and fit a flat plate inside the rail you won't be able to dress your weld after, I think the end plate may have been originaly spot welded at the factory.

GrahamView attachment 63612

 

[Graham H]

I have made a not to scale scetch which I hope will give you a better idea of what i did, the dotted line less the thickness of the plate will be the exact size of the inside of the chassis after you bend the tabs at right angles. I didn't put the hole in the middle I couldn't see the reason for it.

I reassembled and road registered the beast in Jan 2012 so yes its all back together.

Graham

 

[Frank Canale]

Excellent description of how to form the end cap. Most people forget to allow for the material thickness. Frank

 

[Graham H]

JP, I see your photos are sideways and upside down, I had the same problem if you are using an iPhone and you take a horizontal shot the volume buttons need to be at the top and if you hold the phone upright the lens needs to be at the top. This website is Windows based and won't orientate the pictures from an Apple device so if you hold the phone upside down that is how the picture will come out on here.

Graham