• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Tr-2 Clutch Problem

Share this page

R

Redoakboo

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
I am just finishing the restoration of my 54 TR-2 Long Door. The engine has been rebuilt and a new clutch installed. The Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder are new.

I have bled the system but the slave cylinder is apparently not moving the clutch lever enough for it to go into gear. It moves about 2", but not enough for the throw bearing to release the pressure plate. All I get is a noisy grind, when trying to put it into gear?

Dick Vinal
 
As I recall on my 3, the plate thru which the M/C goes can be mounted fore or aft of the bell housing flange and the bolt hole ears on the M/C can be fore or aft of the plate. (I am less sure of the former.) These mountings affect proximity of the M/C to the bellcrank and produce inadequate throw.

Bob
 
I think aft on both, but am pretty sure about the plate. My car is in NC and I in Fl or I would look. Aft would put your slave closer to the bellcrank. Maybe John will be back soon and give us an authoritative answer.
 
Do you still have the master cylinder you removed. You may have to short of push rod on the new master cylinder. I replaced mine and couldn’t bet full travel cause of this.
 
try this
 

Attachments

  • Fig6Clutchslavecylinderlinkage-11.jpg
    Fig6Clutchslavecylinderlinkage-11.jpg
    562.9 KB · Views: 131
donbmw said:
Do you still have the master cylinder you removed. You may have to short of push rod on the new master cylinder. I replaced mine and couldn’t bet full travel cause of this.
Click to expand...
No, I threw it away. Can you order a longer push rod for the clutch side of the MC?
 
Every master cylinder I have order wither for clutch or brake came with the rods. I just swapped rods. I did notice when I replaced mine it wa# shorter but at the time didn’t think it would be a issue. May have a old one still.
 
I checked my slave cylinder and it is aft of the bell housing flange. When I installed the new slave cylinder, I noticed that the rod was about 1" shorter then my old one. I used the longer rod thinking i would get more throw?

Dick 1954 TR-2
 
I would unhook the spring then push the guts back in the slave to the end of the piston by hand and set assembly linkage with a very little play more like a slight click so that there is some play and then try that to see if the clutch works without the spring. If it does, hook the spring up and see if the spring stops the travel and the clutch from working. If it does, then try a different spring. Some cars do not have springs.

The adjustment on the clutch is like 1/8 of an inch of slop in a hydraulic system without pressure on the system ( kind of like a brake system just sitting there), and I believe the spring is there in hopes the hydraulic linkage system from its own weight does not push the rod onto the TOB and cause it to drag a tiny bit some, but again I think they drag some. At least that is what I think I hear when the car is in neutral and running. If the spring is wrong, it acts like a steel rod at some point and will not let the rod out.
 
I was using the old spring and a hint in the Forum suggested I ntry the Spring that roadster Fac. sells for a Girling System; which I have. The new one was alot stronger then the old one.
 
When you changed the clutch did you check the taper lock bolt in the clutch release fork? a broken bolt is enough to stop the clutch from releasing.

Graham
 
No I didn't, little late now that the transmission is installed? Will have to look at my manual and see what the taper lock bolt is? When I bought the car, it had been taking a 30 year nap so don't don't know what was working?

Thanks again for your responses; wish I had someone in the Orlando area I could work with.
 
Rebuilding a project car that someone body started makes for some challenges because of the mixed page of parts. If you put a new clutch in, then the pin bolt would need to be moved to replace the TOB. Did you use the existing clutch?
 
Nobody had touched the car in those 30 years. I replaced the clutch with new pressure plate, disc and throw out bearing.
 
Can you measure the movement of the actuating lever from front to rear? Mine is obviously not moving enough to pull the pressure plate away from the flywheel?

Dick
 
I have also just been through the process of putting together my TR2 engine and gearbox but fortunately had a read through of the Roger Williams Restoring Tr’s and discovered the broken pin issue. My car had a late clutch release and late take up when I was driving it all those years ago so I removed the bolt and yep the pin was sheared. There was enough interference to activate the clutch but it was only a matter of time. I ordered the new heavy duty pin from our Australian TR Register shop and there is no free play under load.
I am sorry to say it is likely your only solution is to remove the gearbox.

Colin
 
TR2's have the slave mounted behind the bracket. It's also a different slave.

Slave.jpg
 
Back
Top