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TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.
- Thread starter DavidApp
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I am going to have to break down and buy a real Oxygen/Acetylene welding set to try to get the oil canning out of the front fender and I think I will need t to get the dent out of the front clip. The Brazomatic kit is not up to much doing this type of work. The Oxygen tank lasts about 12 minutes. $0.90 per minute.
Still pondering that dent in the front clip.
David
Still pondering that dent in the front clip.
David
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Hi David,
Can you get a pick type hammer in behind that dent and tap it holding a dolly on the front? I'd be inclined to get it knocked out the best that I could and then hit it with some short strand fiberglass and then a thin coat of filler to finish.
Cheers
Tush
Can you get a pick type hammer in behind that dent and tap it holding a dolly on the front? I'd be inclined to get it knocked out the best that I could and then hit it with some short strand fiberglass and then a thin coat of filler to finish.
Cheers
Tush
Hello Tush
Thank you.
It seems like the metal in that area is thicker and being rolled over along with the dent I am thinking it will be quiet tough to get it to move. I have several ideas going on in my head. What you suggested is one of the thoughts I have had. Also thought of splitting the dent to help get it out then weld it up or cutting it out and making a repair piece.
Think several times cut once or is it measure twice cut once?
I had the front clip on for the first time to check the general fit to the wings and bonnet. Gave me a chance to have a critical look at the front clip. It is in good shape, no rust and only a few bumps and lumps. By the drivers side head lamp the flange is broken but I think a repair piece will fix the low spot.
Looking at the photo I need to do a shop cleanup.
David
Thank you.
It seems like the metal in that area is thicker and being rolled over along with the dent I am thinking it will be quiet tough to get it to move. I have several ideas going on in my head. What you suggested is one of the thoughts I have had. Also thought of splitting the dent to help get it out then weld it up or cutting it out and making a repair piece.
Think several times cut once or is it measure twice cut once?
I had the front clip on for the first time to check the general fit to the wings and bonnet. Gave me a chance to have a critical look at the front clip. It is in good shape, no rust and only a few bumps and lumps. By the drivers side head lamp the flange is broken but I think a repair piece will fix the low spot.
Looking at the photo I need to do a shop cleanup.
David
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Yeah, that definatley looks like a nice fit.
Cheers
Tush
Cheers
Tush
Hello John
Thank you.
I was relying on that but behind that there is a hollow section, I can pop it out and it will pop back. Could probable get away with bondo but I would like to try to get it better. Hope I make it better not a case of "Why did I not leave well enough alone"
David
Thank you.
I was relying on that but behind that there is a hollow section, I can pop it out and it will pop back. Could probable get away with bondo but I would like to try to get it better. Hope I make it better not a case of "Why did I not leave well enough alone"
David
Thank you John.
When I picked up the car and saw the new parts he had I knew I had a deal. Brand new Boot lid, probable drivers side rear wing, SS exhaust and several boxes of random parts.
Not sure about the drivers side rear wing but the cage nuts have never been welded on there, are just 2 small 1/8" holes and the oval holes. The wing fitted perfectly unlike the mashed passenger wing.
I will soak off the labels and save them in my TR folder.
Going to put the hinges on to make sure the fit is good. The X frame from the old boot lid needs sanding.
When I picked up the car and saw the new parts he had I knew I had a deal. Brand new Boot lid, probable drivers side rear wing, SS exhaust and several boxes of random parts.
Not sure about the drivers side rear wing but the cage nuts have never been welded on there, are just 2 small 1/8" holes and the oval holes. The wing fitted perfectly unlike the mashed passenger wing.
I will soak off the labels and save them in my TR folder.
Going to put the hinges on to make sure the fit is good. The X frame from the old boot lid needs sanding.
I now have a real Oxygen Acetylene kit and tried to get the "Oil canning" out of the drivers side front wing. I had done a John style patch on the wing removing a bad patch and 2 1/2 lb of bondo.
Got it much better and should have left well enough alone at that point but I could not resist trying to get it a bit better. That was the start of the downward spiral and in the end after a long walk I decided the best approach was Cut it out and start again. In fact I just cut a large part of my new patch out leaving the bottom edge and the rear edge of the wing.
After some careful tapping on the dolly I cut out a new patch. This time I mounted the wing on the car and carefully tacked it in to place being really attentive to temperature build up. So far it is doing much better not perfect but acceptable.
Did repair a missing cage nut and low area on the front clip. There was a low area by the drivers side headlamp that showed up when I fitted the wing to front clip. With a bit of careful prying and clamping I managed to get it back into the same profile as the wing. Then welded the patch in to hold it along with the new cage nut.
I am having to re bend the TRF cage nut cages. Seem too lose for the nuts.
When I come to lift the body off the frame again I plan to tack weld stiffeners in the door gaps. Any thoughts on that idea?
David
Got it much better and should have left well enough alone at that point but I could not resist trying to get it a bit better. That was the start of the downward spiral and in the end after a long walk I decided the best approach was Cut it out and start again. In fact I just cut a large part of my new patch out leaving the bottom edge and the rear edge of the wing.
After some careful tapping on the dolly I cut out a new patch. This time I mounted the wing on the car and carefully tacked it in to place being really attentive to temperature build up. So far it is doing much better not perfect but acceptable.
Did repair a missing cage nut and low area on the front clip. There was a low area by the drivers side headlamp that showed up when I fitted the wing to front clip. With a bit of careful prying and clamping I managed to get it back into the same profile as the wing. Then welded the patch in to hold it along with the new cage nut.
I am having to re bend the TRF cage nut cages. Seem too lose for the nuts.
When I come to lift the body off the frame again I plan to tack weld stiffeners in the door gaps. Any thoughts on that idea?
David
CJD
Yoda
Offline
Looking great! Sorry to hear about the wing set-back. If you remember, I went through the same thing with my bonnet. It was almost perfect...but I had to shoot for perfection, and it cost another entire week of constant work to get it back to "almost" again. The TR's have a lot of flatish panels that can be real bears when it comes to oil canning.
It has been a while since I last posted to this thread. Life has got in the way and I had to do some paying work. Ready to get back to being retired.
Just picked up my new compressor so I can get on with sand blasting.
The PO had started on the passenger side front wing and I am in a quandary about how to go about finishing his fix.
1. Drill out his rivets then fold up the rear edge then weld the patch in the wing.
2. Fold the rear edge in situ after welding the patch in the wing.
I am leaning towards 1.
David
Just picked up my new compressor so I can get on with sand blasting.
The PO had started on the passenger side front wing and I am in a quandary about how to go about finishing his fix.
1. Drill out his rivets then fold up the rear edge then weld the patch in the wing.
2. Fold the rear edge in situ after welding the patch in the wing.
I am leaning towards 1.
David
Hello John
Thank you.
Going back and forth in my head weighing the advantages og both ways.
Got an answer from the sheet metal shop in Australia. Seat pans + shipping is under $200.00
20 gauge like the original with a 16 gauge [perimeter strip on the folding base.
David
Thank you.
Going back and forth in my head weighing the advantages og both ways.
Got an answer from the sheet metal shop in Australia. Seat pans + shipping is under $200.00
20 gauge like the original with a 16 gauge [perimeter strip on the folding base.
David
CJD
Yoda
Offline
The cool thing about body work is that there are many ways to tackle any particular job. None are really wrong. Part of the fun is trying to come up with the "best" way.
That sounds like a very good deal for the seats. I just got an email from Rimmer that my second seat is in. That's the good news...the bad is they are hitting me for over $100 just to ship it, when the entire order of 4 wheels and 1 other seat frame only cost that much. Still cheaper than the big three in the US...but an insult none the least!?!
That sounds like a very good deal for the seats. I just got an email from Rimmer that my second seat is in. That's the good news...the bad is they are hitting me for over $100 just to ship it, when the entire order of 4 wheels and 1 other seat frame only cost that much. Still cheaper than the big three in the US...but an insult none the least!?!
Hello All
Doing way too much work out of town. The TR is getting neglected.
Working my way round the front end fitting the bonnet I notice the rear edge is raised above the scuttle. Is the bonnet skin meant to be spot welded to the bracing piece across the rear edge? There is a gap about 1/8" between the skin and brace.
David
Doing way too much work out of town. The TR is getting neglected.
Working my way round the front end fitting the bonnet I notice the rear edge is raised above the scuttle. Is the bonnet skin meant to be spot welded to the bracing piece across the rear edge? There is a gap about 1/8" between the skin and brace.
David
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
The gap is normal. There should be a narrow/thin piece of packing material in there as well.
Cheers
Tush
Cheers
Tush