TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.

[DavidApp]

About ready to lift the body off the frame so that I can finish the welding on the underside.

I plan on fixing the POs work in the floor to transmission tunnel but I was worried that I may get some body distortion if I cut out the lip where the tunnel supports the floor. I would do one side at a time.
You may be able to see the PO got the floor too high on the drivers side.

David

 

[DavidApp]

On another note.
My TR3A kit came with new in box brake hoses purchased some time last century. Probable 1998 so to be safe I just ordered new hoses. Dont know ir the hoses would deteriorate with age.

David

 

[CJD]

That's probably safe with the hoses. I am sure the old ones would work for a show car, but for a driver they'd likely act up pretty quickly.

Your floor top is looking great. Isn't it nice getting a complete tub!

 

[DavidApp]

Hello John

The PO had replaced the floor and both inner and outer sills. I have spent a lot of time correcting his work.

Am now at the point of getting the underside ready to blast and paint.

The tunnel lips look bad and the rear shelf lip is rusted out in spots so I have decided I should replace the lips with new metal. I think I should be OK if I work one section at a time.
Also the spare wheel compartment welds to the boot floor need to be redone. They are just big blobs of weld.

It has been suggested that I should use POR 15 on the under side of the body.

David

 

[sp53]

That inside almost looks new, and I really cannot see too much difference with the floor height on the floor. It has been a while since I worked on a plus 60K tub, but I think that little eyelet next to where the driveline space is at the end of tunnel is for a spring that pulls the E-Brake cable up and out of the way. I would say that lip is structurally important also, but I really think you can leave it just how it is also.



I have used that PRO 15 and I am sure it has its place, but the stuff is just too nasty and expensive for me. But again under a car is probably a good place for it. I just do not think I will live long enough for it, so I guess it has a life time guarantee. If you have not used it, do not get it on your skin because it needs to wear off and if you open a can try and use it all right away because every time I have tried to save it, the shelf life has been short.
steve

 

[DavidApp]

The floor is new. Well it has spent the last 20 years in the POs basement.

The floor is about 1/2" high in some spots. I will post photos later tonight..

Thanks for the heads up on POR 15. I was thinking of using it on spots that are bad about rusting.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Got the body off the frame and onto my mobile stand.

Cut out the rear shelf lip and made a strip to fill the gap.
Just got a Milwaukee dry cut saw and it works great cutting strips of 18 gauge steel. Nice straight strips in a few seconds. I gather it will cut up to 3/4" steel plate. I them punched some holes so I can plug weld the strip to the floor.

Cut the floor free from the tunnel so tomorrow I chould be able to get it welded back closer to right.
Parts of it were rustier than I remember and some should be OK with some straightening.
The PO must have considered this area finished as he had covered the inside welds in some kind of black sealing goop.

David

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Looking great David.

Cheers
Tush

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you Tush

Your You Tube videos were the inspiration for me to go ahead and buy my car. I watched a lot of them while I was weighing up the discussion to jump in. In fact I remember one where you were working on the boot lid fit along the rear apron. You mentioned asking for advice on the forum. That led me here.

Thank you.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Got some more done to the tub.
The tunnel to floor is repaired and I have sand blasted the outside of the tub. Applied 2 coats of POR15 to it straight away as here in Georgia you can get flash rust over overnight when conditions are right.
Will have to turn the tub over to get to the other side.

David

 

[DavidApp]

I am sanding off the original red paint in some areas.

David
View attachment 52595

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Very Nice.

Cheers
Tush

 

[sp53]

The weather must be warmer there, we have snow here--Looks great Dave and did you spray the POR 15 ?

 

[CJD]

It almost looks chromed...very nice!

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you SP53 and John

It has been in the 70s and dry. Using the shark bite sand from Northern Tool which is cleaner to work with than the Black Diamond sand.

Hand painting the POR15. Too expensive and tough to get off anything that should not get painted to try sprating. Goes on well but expect to junk the brush after use.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Anyone got a good photo of the brake line routing from the 5 way connector to the drivers side front wheel. I know it runs across the frame member between the suspension towers but am unsure of the exact line it should take.
Any idea what the bracket to the right in the photo is for? There is one on both sides.

David

 

[CJD]

I think the bracket with the arrow is where the brake hose for each caliper attaches to the frame. Sorry...I can’t remember how the 5 way routes.

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you.
I was thinking the brake hose goes on the other bracket.

This is the problem not having taken it apart. The 5 way connector had a piece of line attached still bent to shape and that lines up with the other bracket.

DAvid

 

[CJD]

Could be for the disc brakes. We'll need somebody with a better memory to verify for the discs.

Here are some pics of the area...you are right, the left bracket is for the disc brake hose. The right is a left over relic for drum brakes...AND is used as the 5-way mount on the right side.

You can see some of the 5-way routing. Hopefully someone has the under side info.

 

[sp53]

Well I hope these help Dave. In the front the line clips to inside of the frame in a U then goes from side to side like in the pics.
steve