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TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.
- Thread starter DavidApp
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Hello John
Thank you.
It is not the kind of shot that gets taken a lot. That is a big help to me as I try to decide what needs to go there.
I will try to make a patch to weld in the Dog Leg possible with a fishplate along the top edge to help support it.
I found that using self tapping screws through some of the plug welding holes I can pull pieces together. Weld it up then remove the screws and weld the hole up. Fingered the rounded corners were to prevent stress cracks and I suspect a rounded corner is harder to spot than a square corner in the finished piece.
David
Thank you.
It is not the kind of shot that gets taken a lot. That is a big help to me as I try to decide what needs to go there.
I will try to make a patch to weld in the Dog Leg possible with a fishplate along the top edge to help support it.
I found that using self tapping screws through some of the plug welding holes I can pull pieces together. Weld it up then remove the screws and weld the hole up. Fingered the rounded corners were to prevent stress cracks and I suspect a rounded corner is harder to spot than a square corner in the finished piece.
David
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Wish I could help David but those areas have been rough on all my TR3s.
Cheers
Tush
Cheers
Tush
CJD
Yoda
Offline
I'm not sure I understand. The outer sill was originally spot welded all the way, front to rear of the sill, along the bottom flange of the inner sill. The quarter panel flange was also spot welded to the same bottom flange of the inner sill, only behind where the outer sill stopped.
Hello John
Thank you for all your input. It is real helpful to get insight from someone who has been there before.
The location of the arrow may have been off a bit. Here is a photo from the area. The quarter panel should lap under the sill?
My question is about connecting along the horizontal section of the join between the outer sill and quarter panel. I have included a shot of the repair the PO had done.
The outer sill is not welded on at the moment.
This is where I am going to cut the Quarter panel to patch the holes.
David
Thank you for all your input. It is real helpful to get insight from someone who has been there before.
The location of the arrow may have been off a bit. Here is a photo from the area. The quarter panel should lap under the sill?
My question is about connecting along the horizontal section of the join between the outer sill and quarter panel. I have included a shot of the repair the PO had done.
The outer sill is not welded on at the moment.
This is where I am going to cut the Quarter panel to patch the holes.
David
My repair parts for the quarter panel.
Got the rust cut out and the area primed as it will be closed up so I won't be able to sand blast it later.
I will try to make a set of mirror parts for the passengers side. The PO had done a weird patch on that side,
On a side note I measured the part I cut out and it was 0.035" or 19 gauge.
David
Got the rust cut out and the area primed as it will be closed up so I won't be able to sand blast it later.
I will try to make a set of mirror parts for the passengers side. The PO had done a weird patch on that side,
On a side note I measured the part I cut out and it was 0.035" or 19 gauge.
David
CJD
Yoda
Offline
Very nice, David...I'm starting to get jealous, as my project is at a stop for a while. I measured the same thing on the metal thickness. It makes you wonder if the standard for gage thickness changed at some point. Depending on how much I have to work the metal, I use either 18 or 20 gages on the repairs.
Hello John
Thank you.
My welding is improving but has a long way to go. Not blowing through as often now since I reviewed your tips on welding.
Am doing the same with the sheet metal gauges.
I am using a cutoff tool from HF and a Dremel tool for fine work. Takes longer but I can control the cut much better.
David
Thank you.
My welding is improving but has a long way to go. Not blowing through as often now since I reviewed your tips on welding.
Am doing the same with the sheet metal gauges.
I am using a cutoff tool from HF and a Dremel tool for fine work. Takes longer but I can control the cut much better.
David
Vacation at the beach Home work jobs and the Georgia Heat/Humidity have slowed down my progress on the TR.
I have got the Passenger side fire wall and kick panel done and managed to get the door gap to the sill correct. It entailed cutting almost all the POs floor pan welds. Bolting the inner sill to the frame, a lot of careful pushing and pulling to get everything into place.
The area at the bottom of the passenger side quarter panel had a weird repair with the lowest cage nut missing.
I carefully cut away all the repair starting with the inner wing area to try to see what was going on.
I noticed that there was a hole and a lot of rust in the corner of the rear shelf where it supports the floor pan so I made a piece to fix that before I did the inner wing repair.
Then set about remaking the lower section of the quarter panel. It took a while to get it to fit. I used 18 gauge for the flat section and 20 for the part that had to be radiused as I had mu doubts about my ability to curve 18 gauge.
It fitted much better than I had dared to hope. I as contemplating buying the quarter panel from one of the big 3.
On to the sill now.
David
I have got the Passenger side fire wall and kick panel done and managed to get the door gap to the sill correct. It entailed cutting almost all the POs floor pan welds. Bolting the inner sill to the frame, a lot of careful pushing and pulling to get everything into place.
The area at the bottom of the passenger side quarter panel had a weird repair with the lowest cage nut missing.
I carefully cut away all the repair starting with the inner wing area to try to see what was going on.
I noticed that there was a hole and a lot of rust in the corner of the rear shelf where it supports the floor pan so I made a piece to fix that before I did the inner wing repair.
Then set about remaking the lower section of the quarter panel. It took a while to get it to fit. I used 18 gauge for the flat section and 20 for the part that had to be radiused as I had mu doubts about my ability to curve 18 gauge.
It fitted much better than I had dared to hope. I as contemplating buying the quarter panel from one of the big 3.
On to the sill now.
David
A question about the "B" post. Having worked for what seemed like days to get the door gap down the rear edge of the door I notice my "B" post is not straight. About 3/16" backwards bend over top 3". Both sides are like that so I presume that is normal.
The door edge is straight so the gap opens up at the top. Should I add material to the top edge of the door?
David
The door edge is straight so the gap opens up at the top. Should I add material to the top edge of the door?
David
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Hi David,
Looking much better! I'm no expert, but I wouldn't do anything with that gap. You will be able to close that up by playing with the shims at the sill on the b post and at the very rear of the car.
Cheers
Tush
Looking much better! I'm no expert, but I wouldn't do anything with that gap. You will be able to close that up by playing with the shims at the sill on the b post and at the very rear of the car.
Cheers
Tush
Hello John
Thank you
Well pleased with the way it all turned out. Getting the outer sill fixed up now.
Something odd going on in that area though. I noticed that the "B" post leans out away from the car center line about 1/8" more than the drivers side. I could not move it even though everything was lose at the "B" post to sill junction including the inner panel. I had to brake that free as the PO had welded it partly inside and partly outside the floor pan. When I had cut away the quarter panel I could get the inner panel welded to the sill then the floor welded on top as it appears it should be.
Looking at the wing I am going to have my work cut out. The bottom edge needs some reinforcing and where the wing and apron join there is damage covered with about 1/8"+ of bondo.
It will be lighter when I am done.
David
Thank you
Well pleased with the way it all turned out. Getting the outer sill fixed up now.
Something odd going on in that area though. I noticed that the "B" post leans out away from the car center line about 1/8" more than the drivers side. I could not move it even though everything was lose at the "B" post to sill junction including the inner panel. I had to brake that free as the PO had welded it partly inside and partly outside the floor pan. When I had cut away the quarter panel I could get the inner panel welded to the sill then the floor welded on top as it appears it should be.
Looking at the wing I am going to have my work cut out. The bottom edge needs some reinforcing and where the wing and apron join there is damage covered with about 1/8"+ of bondo.
It will be lighter when I am done.
David
Decided to take a look at the drivers side front wing. I could see that there was a serious amount of bondo on it and the lower edge looked odd.
I think it could be an entry in the nasty wing contest.
Started stripping bondo and immediately came across a hole in the rear edge. Dug the bondo out and found a patch that was recessed a bit.
As there is already a patch on the lower section that will have to be replaced I am thinking I should repair the small section near the top of the wing before I remove the other patch.
That should help to maintain the rear edge shape and give some strength to the edge when I try to remove the piece on the back.
At least that is what I hope will happen.
David
I think it could be an entry in the nasty wing contest.
Started stripping bondo and immediately came across a hole in the rear edge. Dug the bondo out and found a patch that was recessed a bit.
As there is already a patch on the lower section that will have to be replaced I am thinking I should repair the small section near the top of the wing before I remove the other patch.
That should help to maintain the rear edge shape and give some strength to the edge when I try to remove the piece on the back.
At least that is what I hope will happen.
David
TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
David, your work is awesome. I had to read your thread from the beginning. Much of it reminded me of my thread called "Half way?". -As a matter of fact, after reading your posts, I had to look back through all of mine! The dog leg patch you made is impressive. I opted to buy one, and reform it to fit because I could not make such a complex panel out of a flat piece of steel. I had a rear wing with a bondo repair like yours. And I had a front wing with a landscape nail welded as a lower edge support. The 'creative' repairs make me wonder what they decided *not* to do.
Looks great, keep up the good work and pictures. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great, keep up the good work and pictures. Thanks for sharing.