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TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.

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Perfect!
 
Hello All

Thank you John and Tush for the info. So what is the hole in the boot floor directly under the short metal drain pipe for?

Boot lid drain hole.jpg

David
 
Afraid non of my cars have that hole:



It seems the PO also did not know where to route the drain hose.
 
And none of my three...

Cheers
Tush
 
Is there a dimension from the top of the "B" post to the inner sill. I think that the PO got the sill too low when he welded it in. Fitted the passenger door today to get some idea what needed to be done with the front of the inner wing area when I noticed a significant gap at the bottom of the door. The body lines door to top of the "B" post are OK.
I need to get the body back on the frame to see what else he got wrong. I think that he did all the body work off the frame.

David
 
I would choose restoring an untouched wreck over someone else's basket case any time. You will spend most of your time trying to figure out how to fix the bad work the PO did.

To quote piggot....start with the doors and work out from there. It sounds like the "B" pillar was installed slanted, but it's impossible to be sure until you stabilize the body on a straight frame.
 
Hello John

The more I work on it the more I realize that I may have to go back to the beginning of his work. I am making some lifting attachments so that I can get the body on the frame.

Having cut off the cruddy patch on the front of the inner wing I could see the floor pan is bent down to meet the sill. That is why I suspect the sill is too low. The gap at the bottom of the door is 5/8" and is consistent all the way across the door.

I do have Roger Williams book on restoring the TR2/3/4 could not find a copy of Bill Piggott's book.

Door gap.jpgSill with floor bent down to sill..jpgTop line of door.jpg

David
 
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I see your predicament! You will need to mount the door on the a pillar so it aligns with the top of the b pillar...and then adjust the sill to close the bottom gap.

How is the bottom of the sill aligning with the rear quarter panel?
 
The PO had done a REPAIR to the quarter panel so it is difficult to judge where the sill should have been. I have removed some of his patch to try to do it right or at least better. I was studying TUSH's video of his repairs in that area.

Looking at the slight depression in the B post I presume that is where sill should go.

Pasanger side inner wing..jpgSill to B post.jpgTop of sill flange to B post.jpg

David
 

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  • Paseanger side rear quarter.jpg
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At least half the time restoring these hand made cars is figuring out what is needed before you can even think about lifting a tool.
 
The body is back on the frame. I presume that I need to fit the appropriate size spacers to get a good idea of the problems I have inherited. It is sitting on the rear passenger side body mounting point.


David
 
The PO got the door gap too small for the door when he replaced the floor and sill. I noticed that there was a lot of fiberglass covering the lower portion of the kick panel and the "A" post was rusted out at the bottom.

I removed the fiberglass and this is what was under it.
Drivers side kick panell.jpg

I feel that I will need to make the repair panel in several sections due ti the complex shape. I will go up about 5" and cut the repair 4 or 5 pieces then weld them together to form a complete repair section.
I have cut out the bottom of the "A" post to just above the lowest captive nut and bent up a piece from 16 gauge material.
A post rust.jpg

I will then make sure that there is enough room for the door before I weld it back together.

David
 
Ouch. It's always like anti-Christmas when you look inside fiberglass. At least it looks like you're getting to the bottom of it!
 
I assume you are talking about the indention on the kick panel for the headlight dimmer? I think I would lean toward your idea of sectioning. The only other option would be to beat the indention...and that would likely take a lot longer than piecing it together, and then rounding the corners with a hammer/dolly. Probably best to cut, shape, and fit the sections before you cut out the original, just so you keep your reference as long as possible.

If you get in trouble...let me know, as that section of my donor car is not too bad. I can cut it out and ship it to you.
 
Hello John

Thank you.

See how I get on with the section idea first. I have left everything intact except the part I cut out of the "A" post.

It is ironic that I have got this car back to the condition of my daily driver in 1974. Botton of the "A" post not attached.

David
 
I have the repair section made up.


Is it best to hang the door and use the door to get the position of the "A"post correct or just measure the gap?



Assembled repair panel..jpgA post repair.jpgFirst section of Kick panel repair.jpg

David
 
Hi David,

I think that I would want to hang the door and the fender before you weld that A post. Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Tush
 
Hello Tush

Thank you. That was what I was leaning towards but always pays to ask. What door gap should I be aiming for? 1/8" all around or a bit more.

David
 
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