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TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.

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Nice looking patch!

+1 to actually hang the door...at least until you have the post tacked. For door gaps 1/8 to 3/16" would be good. Less than 1/8 and the front of the door starts to rub. More than 3/16" starts to look too wide. The key is to get the gap even along any one entire edge. It's not that noticeable if the edges vary slightly between each other. For example, if the lower gap is 3/16", but the front and rear gaps are 1/8", it is not noticeable to the eye. But, if the rear gap starts at 3/16" at the top and ends up 1/8" at the bottom...then the eye really pics that discrepancy out easily.

Keep the pics coming...I like watching others work much more than I like doing it!
 
Hello John

Thanks for the info.

I may need a hydraulic ram to hold the "A" post because as I open the gap up at the rear of the door the post seems to twist. Will take another look in the morning.

Question.
Firewall bottom flange to floor. Bend in towards the driver or out towards the motor. I saw an explanation somewhere on this site but can't find it at the moment.

David
 
David,

What year is your TR3?

Cheers
Tush
 
Hello John/Tush

Thank you.

That makes sense to support the floor.
So my replacement floor needs to be trimmed as it is protruding beyond the firewall by about 3/8"

It is a 1960/61
Probable built in 1960 and registered in the US in 61. TS 75524 L

David
 
Guys will correct me but I know that my 59 and my 60 are different when it comes to that area. The 59 has the lip pointing to the rear but my 60 points to the front I think. The floor extends a little past the bulkhead on the 60.

Cheers
Tush
 
Hello Tush

Thank you

I think you are correct. The drivers side has a professional looking lip going forward. The passengers side has nothing it is just gob welded to the floor pan and was covered by fiberglass.
Is the screw thread in the very end of the inner sill to hold the splash guard?
Firewall to floor.jpg

David
 
Yes, that is correct. It holds the bottom of the splash guard.

Cheers
Tush
 
See how much I have forgotten after staring at this TR2 for 3-1/2 years. Good catch Tush!

And, here is a pic to show that Tush is, indeed, correct!


You have to zoom in, but the forward lip is there.
 
Got the Kick panel installed and the door gap is good. May have to do a bit of the wire rod trick to fix some of the gap at the top front edge of the door. Ended up having to buy a Hydraulic ram kit from Northern tool to hold the door gap correct while I welded it.

Moving on to the Firewall.
The bottom edge is almost all gone and the lip that holds the splash guard is missing (the PO had tacked a piece on for that). I am going to replace about 2" along the bottom edge and 2" up the outside edge. Am I better to do a lap joint or try a but weld. If a but weld how to hold the edges together?
The piece by the transmission tunnel will be replaced as well.

David

Firewall inside view..jpgFirewall by transmision tunnel.jpg
 
Hello Bill

Thank you for the drawing and list. I have seen it before somewhere not sure where though.

The holes are low down on the drivers side and outside the engine compartment. They lead into the wheel well.

David
 
If it's those 3 holes in the first pic, my cars don't have those. It looks like there are marks from something having been bolted to them...like maybe a plate so the driver's feet wouldn't fall out of the rust holes?!?
 
Did your car come with the clamps for the carpets/mats? I think the location should be higher then your picture shows but you never know if they were holes that they drilled to mount the clamps...

Cheers
Tush
 
Hello John/Tush

I see what you mean there is a slight witness of something being bolted there. I

I do have carpets that I am told came from the car. There are no marks or holes in the carpet. Think I should weld them up to keep the water out? I presume that the forward facing seam should be sealed with something.

I have got the first section of the repair to the fire wall.

Test fitting the wing I think that the sill may be a little low but it is hard to tell. I will have to do Tush's fix to the door gap.

David

Repair to Fire wall.jpgFire wall repair fron wheel well.jpgTest door and wing fitting.jpg
 
Thank you.

I am real pleased how it is working out. Have to work on getting my welding neater though as the drivers side fender will require a lot of work. At the moment it weighs a lot. Bondo and who knows what else.

I am planning on a strip about 2" wide all the way up the outside of the fire wall to restore the splash guard attachment points and finish the hole repair on the fire wall. Bought some welding clamps at HF to hold the long strip together as clamps wont't reach.

David
 
Got the drivers side kick panel done. The clamps were a great help holding everything in line for welding.

Firewall by kick panell.jpgFirewall by kick panell piece in place.jpgFirewall inside view finished..jpg

The drivers side Dog Leg has a small hole that was covered with bondo and there is a repair piece on the bottom between the dog leg and sill.Where can I find a good photo to guide me with the repair on the bottom part. There appears to be part of a hole in the bottom panel.


David
 

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You finally asked for a picture I don't have! That hole is the same standard sized hole you see under the rear apron, that was plugged with one of those clear plastic plugs used under the apron and sills. I think they used them at the factory so spray Waxoil before they plugged them up.
 
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