Single stage vs base/clear

[drooartz]

I'm getting closer to when I will need to make a decision on paint for Penny Bugeye. I'm sticking with the Old English White color (her original color) but now need to decide on modern base/clear or a single stage. Any thoughts?

 

[BlueMax]

First: I would ask myself what out come I am trying to achieve. Base/clears have a deeper look in comparison. Second: I would asked what quality of material do I want to spray, there are many brands out their so your home work will be needed to make a determination of material that you want to apply. Third: Material cost, this can be over whelming and sometimes unimaginable, reds or pearls will be very expensive and hard to blend if the unexpended happens. I would choose a color that is provided through a manufacture that has been making that same color which would be close to OEW for decades so if the unexpected happens the colors will match perfectly. They usually are called factory pack colors.

 

[Bayless]

My local dealer has convinced me to go to base/clear for better durability. I was not easily convinced but his advice so far has been excellent. If you can bring yourself to get away from the "big name" paints, the cost will probably be less than their single stage. My guy sells Matrix System and I have found it to be as good and as easy (relative term there) as the PPG I used to use but a whole lot cheaper. Also, if I ever have to repair, I'll probably paint a whole panel anyway.

 

[AN5Sprite]

I'd go single stage. Nothing against base/clear, I just prefer old cars to look "old" even after they've been freshened up. Base/clear is too nice, looks out of place on a 1950's car to me.

 

[Bayless]

Steve, I think the same way. But the last couple of years I have seen several cars, particularly at the local Jag club concours that were 2 stage and I would have sworn they were single. I almost had to get a signed certificate from the owners that they were 2 stage. I think this has changed my mind.

 

[aeronca65t]

I suppose there's no use asking me about this. I painted my last car with a brush using Tractor Supply red paint. :highly_amused:

 

[bansheedave]

I suppose there's no use asking me about this. I painted my last car with a brush using Tractor Supply red paint. :highly_amused:

I had a landlord that painted his cars with tractor supply paint. He would reduce it and spray it out of a cheap suction feed gun. Wasn't perfect but looked pretty decent for quick resale vehicles.

 

[markberry]

i used single stage Urethane from TCP Global. I'm really happy with it.

 

[nomad]

I suppose there's no use asking me about this. I painted my last car with a brush using Tractor Supply red paint. :highly_amused:

Nial, I'm impressed!! Of course I would have to have close up pic's to be REALLY impressed!:highly_amused:

Kurt.

 

[drooartz]

I admit that I'm leaning towards a single stage to keep things looking a bit more period. We'll have a talk with my body shop's paint supplier one of these days and get some opinions there too.

 

[Rut]

Drew,
Ive been agonizing over this same thing and all the painters in my area are pressing me hard to go with base/clear. It's what they mix, shoot, and repair all the time and it's much more durable. I've seen several older cars that I would swear they were single stage or enamel. Paint is very expensive for the top of the line name brands, but there are very good brands for a lot less. Talk to your painter and see what he likes and I bet he can save you some $.
Rut

 

[mightymidget]

acrylic enamel

 

[JPSmit]

I had Base Coat/ Clear Coat and am happy with the finish

 

[George_H]

I just did the wifes midget with single stage acrylic enamel. Its the first car i painted in over 30 years. I think single stage is a little more forgiving (read easier to fix mistakes) than 2 stage. Im still sanding the orange peel. I do believe 2 stage is more durable.

 

[glemon]

The answer is really "it depends" depends on who is doing the work, and what you want for a finished product. As others have mentioned, a single stage will probably give you a more original look, a basecoat clearcoat will give a shinier glossier deeper finish. I painted my car myself and used a single stage urethane from TCP Global, good paint, about half the price or less of equivalent PPG and other name brand stuff. BTW, I took a bodyshop class and the instructors said the main difference between the cheaper paints and the more expensive was a better match to new factory paints, and also perhaps more UV resistance, on a car I am reapainting completely, which, once done, will spend most of its life in a garage, I am not too worried about either of those. Lastly as an amateur painter doing it myself in the garage, I figure more steps is more chance to screw up, more chance for runs or bugs or dirt in the paint, so that was another reason I went single stage.

If you are paying somebody to do it it is really more about your preference on the looks and your budget, find a shop with the expertise and inclination to do it your way. As mentioned, most shops, especially ones that work mostly on new cars, will push a basecoat clearcoat, because that is what they do.

Lastly, the urethane enamel single stage is a very durable finish, much moreso than the old non-catalyzed acrylic enamels and lacquers.

I will add after my long narrative mostly supporting single stage that I have done some touch up work on my modern basecoat clearcoat cars in the last couple of years, I was skeptical about the claims of ease of blending and repairs with this system, but it does work pretty well.

 

[dklawson]

I'd like to add my comments which are an extension to what has been said by glemon, markberry, and mightymidget.

As said by others, it comes down to what you want and who will do the work. In my comments below I am assuming you are going to do the work yourself. If I am wrong and a pro will be doing the spray job, don't waste your time reading my statements.

I have no experience with base/clear but I have sprayed 2-component enamels and urethanes from TCP Global, PPG, and DuPont (a long time ago with DuPont). If you are painting at home you can expect some dirt and debris in the paint. That will require wet sanding and buffing. While buffing enamel is possible, it is very easy to buff through compared to urethane (and I am talking about 2-component (catalized) enamel). When either urethane or enamel is buffed the final finish will be "smoother" and higher gloss than a factory enamel paint job from 40-50 years ago. For those reasons I would go with a single stage, 2-component urethane and just plan on wet sanding and buffing to get a good finish.

I found the TCP paints to be slightly "thinner" than PPG and DuPont even prior to adding reducer. They sprayed well enough and were bargain priced compared to PPG. Unfortunately for me, the paint had to be shipped all the way across country and that was not cheap. Factor the shipping costs in when making the decision to buy paint online.

 

[PAUL161]

If I was going to paint my car myself, it would be single stage paint, but since I'm having it professionally done, It's getting 2 stage Urethane. It should be done next week. They've done a ton of prep work on the car, so hopefully it'll come out nice. It's going to be painted similar to this photo, but the Burgundy in the photo will be changed to Jaguar Regency Red. PJ

 

[tomshobby]

I used this from Eastwood and did clear coat it even though it was not needed. I am getting my TR6 ready for paint and may not use the clear on it. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-euro-racing-green.html

 

[drooartz]

To be clear, I am having a professional shop do the painting.

 

[dklawson]

OK, a professional paint job it is. Now the question is do you want an original looking finish or a super shiny, tough paint job?

The enamel will give a more period correct finish than the urethane or base/clear system but it is going to be less durable. The urethane or base/clear will have a deeper gloss and appear smoother but will be more durable.