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TR2/3/3A shocks on a tr3 frame

sp53

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I was wondering what some of the more cleaver people do when they install shocks on a tr3 frame with body off and engine out.
Sp53
 

trfourtune

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what specifically do you mean??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

martx-5

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How is it any different then when the body and engine are in place???
 
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sp53

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Hi trfourtune I am taking about a body off frame restoration with the engine out and body off the frame there is no weight to help hold down the spring pan and frame. When putting the spring pans together, you can pull the spring pan together with thread all/spring compressor in the shock tower, but then you cannot get the shock in after you let it go. I have see pictures of people installing the complete suspension with shocks on a bare frame and figured they used some type of big C clamp to hold the lower fulcrums up when they installed the shocks and the rebounding bracket.
Sp53
 

swift6

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I'm assuming (dangerous I know) that you are having trouble getting the springs to compress enough to attach the shocks since there is no other weight on the vehicle other than the frame and suspension. Is that right? You can always try to get a couple of people to sit or stand on the frame by each corner for the rear. I have also seen leaf springs compressed with nylon straps before to accomplish that. Use spring compressors (external) for the fronts.

Just be careful.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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sp53

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I have the coil springs in place and compressed in the spring pans bolted down; however a tr3 shock is short and the coil spring is able to open a greater distance than the length of the shock. I need a way to compress the coil spring and the lower fulcrum up leaving the center open to put the shock in. I suppose, I could get some fat girls to stand on the frame to hold it down, but I have it suspended up a platform so I can work on it without crawling under too much and I do not have hubs and axles on yet. However, the weight thing might be the only way to do it. I remember a post by Don Elliot a while back and he talked about a load of bricks
 

bluemiata90

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sp53,
Are you sure you have the correct size shocks.I just came in from the garage and happened to see your post. I just finished the one side of my TR3 suspension not less then 15 minutes ago and all I did was extend the shock to its' greatest length before I inserted it up the spring. I didn't seem to have any problems, but I am having a problem with attaching the rebound bracket with the new rebound rubber attached. I was able to get one of the attaching bolts in place, but I can't figure out how to compress the spring to allow me to get the second bolt in..... Try extending the shock first and if it works for you, let me know if you get the rebound bracket on.
 

trfourtune

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whoops,
at first i thought you were talking about the rear shocks because you were mounting to the FRAME. yup, add weight if no spring compressor. rather than use bricks, use cases of your favorite drink /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif(beer, scotch, etc) on a small platform and tell you wife it was for work on the car (excuse to buy more beer, justified!). when job complete, drink to unload suspension and reward for job well done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
rob
 

Adrio

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I keep my beer for drinking. But when I had a similar problem what I did was use a large plastic garbage can and started filling it with water until the required amount of wieght was on board.
 

trfourtune

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let's see,
garbage can full of ice and water and bottles of beer. cold by the time job done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gifgood idea
rob
 

Alan_Myers

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Hi,

I temporarily put a jack under the rotor (with a wooden block to protect the rotor) and lift the suspension a little up from full droop, while standing on the frame with my own weight (180-185 lbs), reach under to position the shock and start a nut on top. (This doesn't leave a hand free for a beer, however.)

It might have been a little easier because I was installing Konis and am using slightly shorter, competition rated springs. I.e., with different springs and shocks, more compression might be necessary.

I'd usually wait to install the bottom bump stop/brackets when the wheels & tires are reinstalled and car is settled back on the ground, lifting the suspension slightly.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

martx-5

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[ QUOTE ]
...

I'd usually wait to install the bottom bump stop/brackets when the wheels & tires are reinstalled and car is settled back on the ground, lifting the suspension slightly.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Can't you get the bumpstop back in while the spring compressor is still in and the spring pan is all bolted up BEFORE you put in the shock aborber??
 
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sp53

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Yes, Alan I kinda thought I would have to wait. I just wanted to get the stops on before I went much further because it looked like the coil spring was bulging to the side too much and I was worried about the shocks. Where I am at now is I left the shocks out and put the bracket and stop in. Leaving the shock out gave me about a 3/4 inch up in the tower and I had to use a wooden wedge under A arms to get that. It has been my experience that if not done right you can actually pull the shocks apart, damaging them. I remember once many moons ago, I put the shock in and lowered the A arm down without having the stop in yet and the shock stretched and never worked right. When the body and stuff is on I usually use the block of wood out on the rotor like you mentioned, but in this case I cannot. I guess what I am most concerned with is damaging the shock. I want to see that puppy go in nice and smooth with no stretching and fighting. These are the first shocks I have bought from TRF and they are made in India. I usually buy from Moss, but TRF says they do their best to give the best product available and I think they do. I paid 70$ for theses. I think other than the high end stuff (Koni) they might all come from India. Have you heard anything different?

Sp53
 
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sp53

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No the spring compression is in the way because it goes through the shock tower. Perhaps if I had one made just for LBC that clamped the out side of the spring… I did try one, but it was too big to work on an LBC. In addition that style of clamp just Grabs about four coils of the coil spring and does not pull the whole works together.
Sp53
 

martx-5

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[ QUOTE ]
No the spring compression is in the way because it goes through the shock tower. Perhaps if I had one made just for LBC that clamped the out side of the spring… I did try one, but it was too big to work on an LBC. In addition that style of clamp just Grabs about four coils of the coil spring and does not pull the whole works together.
Sp53

[/ QUOTE ]

No, I think you misunderstood me. I wasn't refering to getting the SHOCK back in while the spring compressor was still in, but the BUMP STOP. Am I missing something here??? I got the bump stop out when I compressed the spring without the body or engine in. I haven't reassembled the spring or shock, but if I got it all apart that way, I would think I could get it back together that way.
 
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sp53

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Yes I could get the bump stop in, but the bump return metal piece fits right where the spring compressor is. The bump stop is basically the bottom of the shock that metal beveled flat stop with four holes in it that bolts to the bottom of the shock. Perhaps I am missing something also because I thought I could do it also.

Sp53
 

bluemiata90

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I know there must be a simplier way, but as for the bump stop, all I needed was about 1/4 in. more room to get the bolts in, so I put a 3 ft. pry bar under the spring pan and up over the frame, wedging the bar between the pan and the frame, allowing me leverage to move the spring up. My son lifted the pry bar, which slightly compressed the spring, while I inserted the bolts into the bump stop bracket. The pry bar gave me just enough movement that I needed to line up the bracket with the holes. It might not have looked pretty, but everything is lined up and bolted in. Good luck.
 
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