TR5/TR250 Rear brake hoses replacement on TR250 [IRS]

[kindofblue]

My backordered hoses finally arrived from TRF. The front ones are straightforward, but I am having trouble with the rears. At the point at which it rests on the trailing arm, there are two fittings and jam nut with a bracket. I loosened the jam nut and can get the fittings loose, but how do they actually come apart. Do you service the inner fitting first. (that being the harder to reach of the two I left it till later.)
Any idead would be appreciated.

 

[bash]

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I am hoping someone will see it and have some ideas (or the original poster will have found the solution and will pass it on to me!)

I am trying to get the hoses off and just cannot get the inner ends off. I managed to get a spanner onto the driver's side at the 3 way connector, but all I managed was to bend the bracket.

As usual, all help and advice greatly appreciated!
Alistair

 

[Guest]

Remove the whole thing and replace it from the union in the main pipe under the middle of the car.

Seriously.

They aren't that expensive, and the time you'll waste trying everything else more than makes up for the cost.

 

[bash]

Hi Alan

Thanks for the reply - I actually have new hoses and a set of pipes on their way, so I plan to replace the lot anyway, but I still have to get the old hose off the bracket (passenger side) and the new hose has to go back through that bracket. The driver's side should be a bit easier since I can get to the 3 way connector from underneath. I guess it is just a job that will take a long time - I was hoping that there was some little trick that would make my wrists hurt less! Surely people have replaced the hoses without replacing the pipes? Perhaps I should go out and get one of those stubby wrenches.

Alistair

 

[Andrew Mace]

Lots of your favorite penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.)...and possibly (at worst) a propane torch will get that loosened up. Having done this job once on a friend's TR250, I suspect that the connecting pipe is a bit vulnerable and, therefore, worth replacing when the hose is replaced.

 

[Guest]

I gave up.

I was replacing the wheel cylinders with the Morgan conversion and the rubber with stainless at the same time. One of my pipes was frozen into the cylinder, so I had to replace that, and I needed an adjuster that was shot. It was such a pita that I ate the cost of the 3 way connection and replaced everythng from #32 (Moss parts diagram) back. The difference for me was about $50 and worth every cent.

I tried for nearly two hours to get the dam' 3 way disconnected without bending it or the pipes and the only thing I got was annoyed...

I hope you have more luck. I fear you won't.

 

[trrdster2000]

kindofblue, if you don't have a line wrench set, what you are trying to do is dang near impossible. Even with the line wrench you will have to use an adjustable wrench on the three way, a large one slipped over the biggest part and adjusted real tight and braced against the frame. You may even have to use a pipe extension on the line wrench. Do the same for the passenger side, just a little less room. Sorry I didn't pick up on your first post. Wayne