Phantom grip LSD, anyone else done this?

[v8triumph]

I took the risk and installed the Phantom grip in my diff when I stripped it down this past summer. The theory of how this works seemed sound and the price was right /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I see that Cambridge Motorsports is now selling this item so it must work as advertised. https://shop.cambridgemotorsport.com/depa...FTOKEN=71498475

Anyone else tryed this in their TR? I can't really test this until I get my rear end to stop squatting under 1st gear torque. I have a solid axle TR4A, with hd springs. I plan to install shims to point the axle down 4 degrees (static) and convert to stiffer shocks.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

I'm not using the Phantom, but have heard of them and wondered how well they work. Thanks for posting the question.

I've got a Quaife for my TR4, which isn't back on the road yet. There are also the Salisbury LSDs. I understand the difference between these is that the Quaife will allow some spinning if one wheel is lifted in a hard corner, but will be effective when both wheels are on the ground. The Salisbury is even more money, but is effective all the time. Hmmm, I wonder if anyone makes an air-locker like they offer for my Land Rover? Now that might be interesting! LSD on demand.

I've also got HD springs installed on my TR4. What's the deal with shimming to point the axle down 4 degrees? I've not heard of that modification, although it sounds pretty simple. I'm using late TR4/4A solid axle u-bolt plates as shims to set up ride height (my car is an early one that doesn't use the 3+" thick aluminum distance piece). They are about 1/4" thick and useful for this, but I might replace the heavy steel with lighter, homemade aluminum plates if I can find a good stock of 1/4" thick.

Let us know what you think of the Phantom you've got and if you get any responses and information sent directly.

Cheers!

Alan

 

[v8triumph]

The rear end pinion goes up when under torque (rides the crown gear) resulting in the drive shaft binding. You never see this with the stock engine but the V8 can induce it in 1st and 2nd gear quite easily. I got the idea from the muscle car crowd that you shim the rear down slightly so that it is more in line when under power. That and stiffer shocks should help. Right now you have either slip the clutch in 1st carefully or just start in 2nd and get it rolling and then it is fine. Would like to see how it will really accelerate off the line........

 

[35thbdaytr6]

Problem with shimming it is that the shaft will be at the incorrect angle at speed, and the chance that upon decel (hard braking or engine braking) it will wrap in the opposite direction and pull the splines out. Build a link with heim or johnny joints.

 

[Mark Beiser]

Hmmmm, $350 for one of those for a TR7, or $1245 for a Quaife....

Tempting...

 

[v8triumph]

That was my thought, too good to be true but in researching the unit, the simple design makes sense (the springs keep the spider gears semi locked for normal driving and if you give it full power, the plates slightly rotate and temporarily lock the spiders so both wheels get power). These are commonly used in the Neon and Honda FWD cars and when I saw that Cambridge Motorsports in the UK were selling them, that convinced me that they must work. FYI, you can get these on ebay for alot less that $350, I think I ended up paying $250 or so....

 

[StagByTriumph]

Yep, put one in my Rover engined 230 bhp Stag. I notice a lot of difference, inside wheel spin is dramatically reduced.