I have to respectfully disagree with the advice from Moss to use a lock tab. These are critical fasteners which must maintain proper clamping force indefinitely, and the last thing you need is a piece of soft metal like a lock tab under the bolt head that has a possibility of flowing outward and reducing the clamping pressure, resulting in loosening & then disaster. Yes, all British cars were built this way back then and it worked. Are you sure those new bolts and lock tabs you're buying are exactly the same hardness & tensile strength available 50 years ago, and are you sure you're using exactly the same torque the factory used? Probably not. You will need a very hard washer and a drop of quality lubricant between the ARP bolt head & washer. I have used the ARP A-series bolts, I even still have a set of new ones in a sealed bag and they were supplied with matching washers. I have also seen a disaster from stock flywheel bolts (used with a lock tab) that sheared off. I have no idea why such an excellent product as ARP flywheel bolts would be supplied without appropriate washers. The bolts have a generous radius between the head & shank (which increases strength) and may require an inner bevel on the hardened washer. These washers are available from good fastener & industrial supply vendors. Don't trust hardware store stuff for this critical job. That's my 2 cents, take it or leave it, but I don't want to see someone have flywheel bolts fail after a little running without having been warned about soft lock tabs.