• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Ground cable warning-Dummy at work

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Well, I pulled a beauty this time that could have turned out much worse. After all of these types of jobs that I've personally done or had done, you would think that I'd learn to double check myself. You would think....

As embarrassing as this is, I'm posting this as a lesson for those who may be doing something similar, so that they don't have a result worse than mine.

It begins with a simple alternator swap on the TR8. I noticed some cracks developing in the corners of the alternator bracket and figure that "while I'm in there", I'll get Woody's new custom bracket and turnbuckle, as well as a new 95 amp alternator from BNR. I'm thinking that while nothing is wrong with the original alternator, I'll do this now and forget it forever.

So far so good.....during the bracket swap, the engine ground cable to the right side frame rail is left off, but I don't see it when the bolts go back in. That's where the not so good part comes in. The car starts up, but the starter sounds kind of weak, so I think that the battery needs a good charge and I take off the cables, clean them and slow charge it overnight.

Saturday is a nice day, so I check the battery voltage and it is fine, so I put the cables back on and start it up. Again, it sounds weak, but starts and I think that the starter is giving up the ghost. I email Mickey to ask if he had any issues and how old the starter was. He answers, says he has had none and it's only a few years old. Hmmmm???

OK, I'll just call Woody and get a gear reduction starter and swap it out and that will be behind me forever. He's not in, so I leave a message. I go back out and this time it starts right up, so I decide to go for a ride because it's so nice. I need gas, so I stop less than a mile from my house and fill up. This time it won't start and there's a puff of white smoke from under the hood. A guy next to me helps me push it into the parking area and I open the hood, but nothing looks wrong, so I figure that the starter finally died. AAA comes, flat beds me home and 20 minutes later I'm sitting in the garage wondering if it will start one last time.

This is where it could have gone really bad....

I turn the key and after a few slow groans, it starts right up, but a bigger puff of smoke comes up and as I step the throttle down to bring it off fast idle, the pedal jams to the floor and it redlines. Luckily I'm in the car and shut the key right off.

The pedal is now stuck to the floor and I'm really puzzled. I crawl under the dash and look and the cable appears to be all balled up right at the firewall, with a few strands going to the pedal, but it won't pull back and the carb linkage is 3/4's of the way open and jammed. I pop off the ball connector and the carb linkage snaps shut. Hmmmm????

I did not know what was wrong yet, but I called Woody to see if he had a starter and a throttle cable. He called me back today, knowing full well what was wrong.

Well, for those who have not figured it out already, several things happened, none really very good, but some could have been really bad.

One, the ground was off the engine to the frame. My fault, don't you do it too.

Two, the starter was looking for a ground when I turned on the key and couldn't find the cable that it needed so it took the next best thing, which was the throttle cable to the engine. It's actually melted, NOT frayed and that is why it jammed wide open.

Three, the engine revved up to redline, but I got it shut down right away. Proof positive why one should stay in complete control of the engine/car before getting out of the car to look things over with the engine running. At least I remembered to do that from the old days. Luckily, this engine was rebuilt well and I don't expect any problems from a quick rev up and shut down.

Four, this could have been really bad if it happened on the highway or in traffic when accelerating, especially if my wife was driving it.

Five, the starter is probably fine, but I'll drop it off Monday at My buddy Brad's Yankee Auto Electric to have him check it out, now that it's sitting on my bench. No sense putting it back together without being sure.

Six, just because you can't see where the smoke came from, just having it happen should be cause for further investigation to prevent a disaster.

There it is in a nutshell. I hope that those who read this will be a bit more cautious and double check their work before turning the key. I know that I will.

Pics below. The ground cable that I show pointing up was not there as it is in the picture. It was tucked down below the alternator, so I could not see the end of the unattached cable, or this would not have happened.

You can see how the throttle linkage is pulled back because the cable is melted internally to it's housing at the firewall.

Yes, I did go to Mass this morning and gave thanks......
 

Attachments

  • 22882.jpg
    22882.jpg
    77.6 KB · Views: 382
  • 22883.jpg
    22883.jpg
    72.1 KB · Views: 617
  • 22884.jpg
    22884.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 380

14dna

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Paul

I'm very glad this turned out, at least, better than it could have.
I'm sure anyone who has turned wrenches for any length of time has similar stories to tell.
Look at the bright side, the dumb mistake on this car is now over!
"Good Luck" from here on in.

Dave :driving:
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
:eeek:

Seen it after the fact: Spridgets, MGB's, TR4,6, et al. USUALLY the throttle cable heats up like a light bulb filament, lots of damage from that happening in proximity to oil/grease/fuel. Some were burned to th' waterline.

Glad ya didn't self-immolate, Paul!!! whew.
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Dave,

I hope that my dumb mistakes are over, but sometimes I manage to surprise myself....
 

tr8todd

Jedi Knight
Offline
I have personal experience with over revved Rover V8s due to stuck throttles. It's happened to me twice, and both times I figured it was such a short amount of time that nothing bad had happened. I was wrong. Keep an ear out for broken valve springs in the near future. They won't break right away, but if they were damaged, they will start to break after a couple hundred miles or so. Now my TR8s have ignition boxes with rev limiters to protect against such things. One of the times, they started snapping on a return trip from a show in Ct. One broke and I had to improvise a way to keep the valve closed. Can't remember exactly what I did, but it involved heater hose. 10 miles later another one broke. This process continued all the way home to Mass.
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Thanks Todd. I will keep that in mind as well as a rev limiter.
 

Gliderman8

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
What about a battery disconnect? I put one on my car and it literally saved it from an electrical fire.
It's a small price for when the day comes that you need it.
Glad no damage was done Paul and thanks for sharing your story to educate all of us.
 
D

Deleted member 8987

Guest
Guest
Offline
I've seen shifter cables glow.
Speedo cable glow and the grease burn.

Can get real nasty real fast.
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
Eyeblink fast.
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]OK. So, how did it sound @ redline?[/QUOTE]

Peter, my mind went into my basic training and the first object was to get it shut down as fast as possible. I can only tell you that there was not rattling or bang. Beyond that, time will only tell, but I think that my quick reaction time helped. Over the years, I've been in similar situations many times and I guess that I have a built in reflex for these.

I will take Todd's advice and drive it a bit before I take it to the Cape for the weekend. If I hear the slightest tapping, the TR6 will make the trip instead.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
So....I take it the battery cable job is off the table?
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
No Don, actually not. I still want a cut off switch in the trunk, so I'll just shelve the project until after the Cape event coming up. There's no real rush and I will be looking at a rev limiter as well.

Once I get the starter back on and get it ready for the weekend, I'll be busy with the office all week, so the parts research will continue at nights.

I have a new 4 gauge cable and ends on the bench to make up to go from the alternator to the starter, which I will probably install before I do the starter, then the other battery cables and cut off will follow,
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
And that's bad, HOW?!?!

:shocked:
 

martx-5

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Rev limiters sound like a very good idea. Just out of curiosity, are there limiters out there that will work with points type ignition systems??? I think I'd like to add a rev limiter to the TR3.
 

Minesweeper

Senior Member
Offline
martx-5 said:
Rev limiters sound like a very good idea. Just out of curiosity, are there limiters out there that will work with points type ignition systems??? I think I'd like to add a rev limiter to the TR3.

MSD makes a rev limiter unit (# 8728) for use with any distributor-based ignition (whether points or optical trigger). Rev limit is selected by simply plugging in the desired limit module which are available in 500 rpm increments. They also introduced a dial selector that plugs into the unit so you can select any rpm limit in a range (e.g., 4600 to 6800). For about $60 more though I'd look at getting a full-fledged ignition unit such as the MSD 6AL which has the rev limiter built in, or the MSD 6BTM (rev limiter and boost timing retard) if forced induction is in your future. Either will work with points.

Scott
 

philman

Jedi Knight
Offline
I've already melted my throttle cable about two years ago.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
Joe Schlosser BN1 Ground cable Austin Healey 3
NutmegCT TR2/3/3A TR3 battery ground cable Triumph 8
R TR2/3/3A TR 3A Engine Ground Cable Triumph 1
J Braided ground cable Triumph 3
M MGB Ground polarity '67 MGB MG 2
B Positive-Ground LED Light Strip Austin Healey 8
V MGB Never occurred to me that my '66 would be positive ground. Does the presence of an alternator show that it's been converted? MG 22
A Muffler/Ground Clearance Austin Healey 13
K TR2/3/3A The engine ground strap? Triumph 6
jfarris TR2/3/3A Ground location for center panel lights 56 TR3 Triumph 5
R Ground wires under dash Spridgets 5
T TR2/3/3A Should there be a body ground strap to battery on TR3 Triumph 7
Jim_Stevens TR2/3/3A Arcing & Sparking at the battery terminal to ground Triumph 7
steveg 100-4 Distributor Internal Ground Wire Austin Healey 6
B TR4/4A Engine ground strap Triumph 5
R TR2/3/3A Pic of installation of ground strap-TR-2 Triumph 2
T Location of ground wire for BJ8 Austin Healey 6
K Is my BJ8 horn switch connected to ground positively or negatively? Austin Healey 3
red57 Positive ground radio Austin Healey 17
S Wanted Original Style Positive Ground Radio Austin Healey Classifieds 0
S Positive Ground to Negative Ground Power Inverter Austin Healey 11
S TR2/3/3A TR3 with Ground Conversion Triumph 18
apbos Positive Ground Alternator wiring. Spridgets 9
6 Relay wiring positive ground Spridgets 4
M BJ8 Positive-Negative Ground Conversion Austin Healey 7
M 66 ‘ BJ 8 Positive ground identification Austin Healey 4
doc50 Nash Metro Positive to Negative Ground Other British Cars 2
R TR2/3/3A Positive-ground LED lights Triumph 13
D TR2/3/3A Main ground connection Triumph 2
G TR4/4A Negative Ground Conversion Question Triumph 11
S TR4/4A Where do the ground straps connect Triumph 5
S TR4/4A Horn ground strap Triumph 6
S TR2/3/3A Positive Ground Question Triumph 2
Marla TR4/4A Positive ground inverter Triumph 9
M TR2/3/3A Positive or negative ground? Triumph 6
P Bugeye Negative Ground Spridgets 15
S MGA 1956 MGA negative ground, True Spark Ignition distributor MG 3
P Jump starting a positive ground BJ8 Austin Healey 4
D TR4/4A Ground strap, ammeter Triumph 3
Jim_Gruber Am I set up as Positive or Negative Ground? Spridgets 12
M TR2/3/3A Engine/tranny angle with the ground? Triumph 7
K TR2/3/3A Fuel gauge and switching to Neg ground? Triumph 2
PAUL161 General MG LED Dash and Instrument Bulbs POS or NEG ground. MG 8
Jim_Stevens TR2/3/3A Where's the horn ground? Triumph 15
M Negative ground conversion : what about OD ? Austin Healey 9
M Question about positive vs negative ground Spridgets 13
J General TR Pos/Neg ground determination? Triumph 14
R Distributor ground wire Austin Healey 8
R TR2/3/3A Distributor ground wire Triumph 7
R Distributor ground wire Spridgets 5

Similar threads

Top