Silverghost said:
I am looking to get an enclosed trailer that will fit my Traveller. Any recommendations? Anyone have one for sale?
Hi, Peter,
Recommendations would depend on HOW you intend to use the Traveller and the associated trailer. If the only objective is to get the Traveller from one place to another, without actually driving it, and enclosed trailer may not necessarily be the best solution...open trailers are quite convenient. If the Traveller is primarily a show vehicle and you intend to minimize "road rash", then indeed the enclosed trailer may be the solution you're looking for.
I have a '73 Midget that I show; I transport it to distant shows in a Pace 8x16 enclosed trailer. Now before I get the obligatory lectures about "cars are to be driven" and "look at all the fun you're missing"...I do, and don't...I drive the car a lot, but not the interstates around Atlanta, any interstates for that matter. A bum knee also precludes me enjoying the shifting for more than a couple hours at a time. AND, I have a TR3 driver and a '62 Sprite I'm building that do/will give me all the driving enjoyment I can handle. I also use the trailer for storage of the Midget. It's sitting out in the driveway right now at 60 degrees and very low humidity thanks to a small ceramic heater. In the summer it sits at 80 degrees, and again very low humidity, thanks to a top of the trailer mounted air conditioner. The trailer seals up very tight and is rodent proof as well.
As far as suggestions, here's a few:
1) Be sure you have, or can trade for, a tow vehicle that will handle the load. I had an Infinity QX4 (smallish SUV on the same platform as the Pathfinder) with a 5000 lb towing capacity. The trailer with the car (only) weighs in at just about that. Add the cooler, bag chairs, tool box, emergency gear, spare, etc...your'e over 6000. I traded for a Nissan Titan with a 9400 lb towing capacity. I'd suggest a tow vehicle with at least 20% excess capacity. I also went with Nissan's "Big Tow" option which gave me the hitch I needed, built in 7 hole electrical plug, and backup alarm (the change in sound makes it really easy to know just how close the hitch ball is to the trailer tongue).
2) Buy a larger trailer than you think you'll need. Look at the attached photo with the car. I can walk around the car, open the doors, bonnet and boot lid, and store loose items in front of the car. Yes, an 8x16 CAN be more of a handful to tow than a 7x14, but not if you've properly matched tow vehicle, trailer, and options (see #1 and #3).
3) Spend the money on the best anti-sway setup you can find. Mine was installed by the same company that I ordered the trailer from (Trailers for Less; Atlanta). The truck with the capacity you need should already have the proper hitch (see #1).
4) Ditto #3 for the brake controller. A trailer of this weight will have brakes; the electric brakes on mine work great. You want to be able to dial in your controller to where the trailer brakes come on just in advance of the truck brakes. You'll also have a break away battery on the trailer itself.
5) Install an electric winch at the front of the trailer. Mine is wireless; I can stand at the back of the trailer next to the car and walk alongside the car as it loads making slight adjustments to the steering/position of the car. Plan ahead...you will need bracing in the frame/floor where the winch goes. Also, most winches come with braided steel cables... guaranteed to do a number on your hands, trailer, and your car. Buy (NOT cheap) the braided high tech fabric cable replacement; same or higher strength but feels like cloth.
6) Consider ORDERING your trailer if you buy it new. You can get EXACTLY what you want and high volume dealers will just add in a modest profit for placing the order...they don't have to "floor plan" it.
Hope this helps. There's more photos of my rig on my web site
www.raysmg.com; follow the "Car Hauler" link.
Ray