Crypt Clutch 2nd Look-see

[Tinster]

Allan et al:

The numbers? Since I know just about nothing about
mechanics, I always mark the locations of circular
pieces I remove. I mark the piece and also whatever
is behind the piece. I can then line up the two marks
and the piece is in place exactly where i removed it.

But the flywheel rotated so the numbers were useless!

I tore out the clutch simply becaue I had a "Sticky"
clutch when I let it out. All suggested a broken taper
pin. I found a broken taper pin.

The clutch worked just fine with no shuddering, slipping
etc. Even under heavy acceleration.

I think I will give up on removing the flywheel and
just attempt to install the clutch.

Anyone see any defects in this flywheel?

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

Dale, if the rear main seal is not leaking (it's not is it ?) I personally would not take that flywheel off. From the pictures it look fine for further use as is, and from your description the clutch was not shuddering etc so I would just install the new clutch and go on with my life. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Adios
D.C.R.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Alan, I was truly afraid to ask that question. I think Dale uses some kind of magic at times. I'm just not sure which type so I don't ask. Ever since that frog episode... [/QUOTE]

You two characters ever heard of voodoo and the powers of numerology?

Dale lives in the tropics and that Crypt car is a direct descendant of a certain red & white 1958 Plymouth named Christine.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Dale,
You need to get this car going. There is nothing wrong with that flywheel. It was not slipping or chattering with the old stuff. It won't with the new.

So, put the TRF clutch kit on and move forward.

You need to get some enjoyment from the beast soon or you will lose interest in disgust.

Ray

 

[DNK]

And if there is you'll be an expert at it. Won't take longer that 3 weeks next time!

 

[Joe_Pinehill]

Dale one of the best tools I bought was a 1/2in Rigid Electric Impact wrench. The Rigid wasn't inexpensive, but I needed it that night to move a tractor. Harbor freight has them for $50 if there are any in PR, they do mail to PR. Northern Tool has one for $80, there's a ton on Ebay.


I had to have it one night to get a pully off my 1973 John Deere. Long story, but to change a belt, the pulley has to be removed, and its very similar to a clutch, four bolts hold the pulley to a spindle, and no way to leverage a wrench. I always wanted one anyway.

 

[Joe_Pinehill]

BTW Dale, Ill be making a lot of trips middle of this year to the Carribean for business, often connect or overnight through San Juan, Its always a dynamic schedule, but if I overnight on the way down, I could hand carry some small bits if you want. email me off line.

 

[gjh2007]

Dale:

I have a hand impact I got from Sears similar to this, works really well. Mine is a 1/2" though.

"no batteries required"

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.20703/TID./qx/product.htm

 

[Tinster]

One last look:

Here is the clutch plate I removed.
It is smooth with no ridges or valleys.
It is not glazed and the rivets are all
well below the black material surface.
It is about 1/8" thinkness of black material.
The reverse side looks the same.

I have no oil leaking from behind the flywheel.
My only oil leak now is from the front of the
tranny. I have the new oil seal. From what Bill
described as thegreat difficulty in replacing that
oil seal, I think I will send that component to the
States to have the old oil seal removed and the
new one installed. (any volunteers or live near a TR mechanic? I will gladly pay for this service.)

The mechanic who restored the MG has zero time to
help me now or even offer advice. So if Ctypty gets
put back together it will be with my hands only.

Yes, I am getting very discouraged with this project.
With Crypty parked at the funeral home, it takes
a special effort to drive over there and work on
him. And then to spend 1/2 a saturday and fail to
remove four simple bolts-- I could be enjoying
other more productive things on my time off.

here is the plate I removed.

Anyone see any major cause for concern?

]

 

[Harry_Ward]

Dale,

The picture you are showing us is the clutch disk aka the driven plate assembly which should be replaced with a new one. Ok, I know you know that I'm just making sure. The rivets not showing through is good because it means it did not score either the pressure plate located inside the clutch cover (all metal) or the metal on the flywheel face. We have to assume then that those metal surfaces are not warped, glazed, or cracked. The flywheel face picture was a little fuzzy but it looked OK to me. I do not see any glazing or staining due to oil on the disk so I assume the seal is OK as well. Dale it's truly a while you are there thing to change out seals which may be a problem later. If it's truly impossible to get the flywheel off then I would clean off the surface rust with an all purpose solvent. Completely dry the area and proceed with the clutch installation. Do not get any solvent on paint or the clutch disk. The clutch disk is similar to your brake pads. You want to keep them clean and free of any contaminants which could cause premature failure.

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Harry,

Yeah, it looks like remvoing the flywheel is
not going to happen for the Crypt Car.

I'll try to find someone in the Sates to replace
the front tranny seal for me.

Any ideas where I should send it?

thanks,

d

 

[SpannerMan]

One last look:

have no oil leaking from behind the flywheel.
My only oil leak now is from the front of the
tranny. I have the new oil seal. From what Bill
described as thegreat difficulty in replacing that
oil seal, I think I will send that component to the
States to have the old oil seal removed and the
new one installed. (any volunteers or live near a TR mechanic? I will gladly pay for this service.)

]

I wouldn't worry too much about the flywheel. Just clean it off I'd say.

The seal fits inside the front cover/release bearing carrier. The sticky hanging up clutch can be caused in part by wear on the carrier- the release/throwout bearing doesn't slide smoothly on it. Unless it looks really good I would replace it, given you had a sticky clutch. Mine was clearly shot, and that was the main thing I credit for fixing that problem. Using a new carrier/cover skips you a step in having to get the old seal out. It's been a while, but I myself don't remember a big problem fitting the seal. It depends on the specific parts you get I guess- how tight the fit is. Use some white lithium grease (only a little since you don't want it getting on your clutch) on the bearing carrier surface. Good luck with getting it back together... Pete

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Pete,

I have 100% new clutch components, hydraulics
master and slave,T/O bearing, fork, oil seals,
gaskets, the works.

I am waiting for the machine shop to complete
the fork bar manufacture.

I will need much, step by step help from the
BCF forum to accomplish this clutch and tranny
project all by my lonesome.

I am hoping to have the clutch assemble and tranny
reinstalled during the next 90 days. That is my present goal.

PS: I'm in a real jam soon with the DMV. Annual
emissions testing for license plate renewal.
My tags expire in 5 weeks. Crypty will not be
operations for many months to come. I will also
lose my insurance by same default.

d

 

[Harry_Ward]

Any ideas where I should send it?

thanks,

d

Dale,

You should be able to remove/replace that seal yourself given the repairs you have done to date. I suggest you read Bills explanation again it's not that hard of a repair. At the most it should take ten to fifteen minutes for a first timer. The cost of shipping that housing to me would probably cost ten times (best guess) what another new seal ($4.00) would cost if you break or bend it during the install. Not to mention the $60.00 cover possibly getting lost in transit. Give it a try.

 

[kc_doyle]

I agree with the "if it's not broken don't fix it" line of thought. It's like plumbing in an old house. Fix one connection is to cause a leake somewhere else. Fix it when it needs to be fixed. When that time comes I agree with the impact driver idea too. You need one in your tool box. Good in a lot of places...

 

[Tinster]

Ok, we are finally getting a do-able game plan together.

The Crypt Car is NOT going to get the existing flywheel
resurfaced or anything like that. It would have been nice
but not possible. That decision is progress forward.

The front oil seal in the tranny is just going to have
to continue leaking. It's the only leak I have not corrected. I can live with that. That decision is also progress forward.

Question: As the oil leaks out of the tranny, am I able to add new oil to the tranny with the car on a lift?

Thanks, dale

Taking it one tiny step at a time.

 

[Brosky]

Dale, the tranny is out, replace the seal. It's not a big deal and I know you can do it. Just follow Bill's instructions and in 10 minutes its completed. Then you can forget about the worry of adding oil and cleaning the mess under the car.

 

[AweMan]

Dale:
The seal on the transmission is an easy job! Most all auto parts stores sell a seal removal tool, easy to use! Once the old seal is out clean the surface where the seal fits with solvent and a rag, make sure it is dry of any solvent before inserting the new seal. Insert the new seal making sure it is square, with a small ball peen hammer tap it lightly all the way around on the very edge to get it started in. Then place the old seal on top of the new one upside down, use it to continue taping on until the new seal is firmly seated. Remember to tap in a circular motion around the seal lip.
No worries! you can do this!
Besides forever worring if your transmission has leaked enough oil out to cause damage really sucks!

 

[TR6oldtimer]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Question: As the oil leaks out of the tranny, am I able to add new oil to the tranny with the car on a lift?
[/QUOTE]

Yes, there is a fill plug on the side of the case.

Ray

 

[Tinster]

I will take this under advisement.

To date, every time I remove one thing to repair,
it resulted in 3 or 4 new problems uncovered.

13 months ago, all I thought was wrong with the car
was a busted $12. ingnition key switch. It ended up
costing well over $4,000. to get that switch functional.

I am afraid if I try to replace the $4.00 oil seal,
it will result in many more $thousands required for
Tranny work.

I;ll take another look at the piece.

d