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Bulletproofing your Healey

bdcvg

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I do not agree with the spin on filter swap. I remove the filter assembly at the block for the cost of a .39 cent gasket, which I tend to get 3 uses out of. I have very little mess this way and I am much more confident in the Wix replacement filters than a spin on.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Again, the goal is simply to compose a list of suggested repairs, replacements and upgrades that will help in keeping a car from either breaking down while on the road or sitting in a garage because its owner fears it will not get him home. These are the observations and experiences of many long-time Healey owners and if someone feels differently then so be it.

I assume that Editor Reid has seen this and perhaps when we stop adding items he will choose to move this topic to the ranks of stickydom. Or, as with so much of what we discuss, another float in the endless parade of topics will come into view and this one will turn the far corner and go out of mind.

And within a week or two the next poor sap asks a question about points, rotors, fuel pumps, etc. etc. and we can discuss the same stuff again ad nauseum. And like Keoke pointed out early on, What Else Do We Have To Do?
 

bdcvg

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Bullet Proof British Car, oxymoron? Mayhaps. Fun to try though. BPBC 1 of the things that Tom at Four in Tune did to My car is the dual fuel pumps like on the works cars.
 
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I do not agree with the spin on filter swap. I remove the filter assembly at the block for the cost of a .39 cent gasket, which I tend to get 3 uses out of. I have very little mess this way and I am much more confident in the Wix replacement filters than a spin on.

I use Wix spin-ons; 100K+ miles on them on the BJ8 with nary an issue (just bought a dozen at < $4/per). Your method is the best, for sure, but I was always concerned about not getting everything buttoned-up right on the OEM adapter and canister, what with an O-ring and a couple plates on either side of the element. Plus, the OEM rig doesn't have an anti-drainback valve (of course, they wouldn't need them if they were mounted vertically, 'facing' up). It's easy enough to bolt the OEM rig back up, if I ever feel I've run out of other things I need to do on my Healeys.

I have no data or evidence, but I always felt--pun intended--that the element filters weren't adequately sealed at both ends by the metal disks and could allow some unfiltered oil to get past. Spin-on elements are completely sealed at both ends. Have heard--again, no data--that the felt elements might actually filter TOO well, removing some of the beneficial additives in the oil (that was a 'knock' on the old Franz 'toilet paper' roll auxiliary filters).
 

Csarneson

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I'm still early in the process of restoring my BN4 but for me front disc brakes are a must. We have lots of animals on the roads in Wyoming and I would not even consider taking a precious Healey out on them without good stopping power. I'm putting M16 calipers on my front end.
 

gonzo

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Spare tire replacement solution. BJ7 / BJ8 Spare tire takes up too much space in trunk and adds weight. Unnecessary until it's needed, but seriously is there another solution?

For roadside repairs are tubeless tires an improvement over tubed tires.
 

John Turney

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Folks--

Remember the topic is about Bulletproofing the Healey so that it will not be found abandoned alongside the road. All suggestions made are great but many relate to safety or convenience/comfort issues. If someone wants to start another topic that's fine, but I'm going to try to keep this list to things that affect the day-to-day operation of the car.

So that we all don't have to go back to the first post I am restating it with relevent additions made: ...

Keep those suggestions coming!

1. Install electronic ignition to eliminate points and capacitor problems (Mallory Unilite) I went with a Crane optical trigger.
2. Upgraded coil (In my case a Lucas Sports though when it fails I will definitely replace it with a Bosch Blue) I have a Lucas Sports coil going on 17 years.
3. Remove the ignition grounding switch or replace with a reliable alternative (I installed a Hella marine grade model with removable key) I put in a new one. It is part of my theft and garage fire protection systems. It's easy enough to bypass just in case.
4. Electronic fuel pump with back-up or Double-header pump with selector switch. Double-header electronic here.
5. Grose jets and modern floats in carb bowls. I'm one of those who's had bad luck with Grose jets, so I retain the SU ones with Viton seals.
6. Multi-circuited fuse panels. Yes.
7. Gear reduction starter. Yes.
8. Modern radiator fan and/or Coolant recovery system. Yes to both.
9. Alternator with negative ground system. Yes. I have a GM-Delco. Easy to find a replacement.
10. Spin-on oil filter. Yes.
11. Inline serviceable fuel fuel filter. Yes, although I only have one.
12. Upgraded radiator. Yes, upgraded the core.
13. Auxiliary electric fan for above. With rally vents and a bit of ducting in front of the radiator, I have no need.
Headlight and auxiliary light relays.
Electronic turn signal relay. When the original one went goodbye, I needed one in a hurry, so I built one using Radio Shack relays as a temporary.
Voltmeter to monitor charging and battery condition.
72-spoke wheels to reduce broken spokes. (None so far.)
Anti-tramp bars to prevent breaking the prop shaft (wouldn't have been required except I increased the engine Hp.)
 

CessnaTPA

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I called Moss today about getting an electronic ignition and they recommend the flame thrower and also said my mechanical tachometer wouldn't work after Installing it on my 57 100-6. Is he correct?
 
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Don't see how a mechanical tach would be affected by any sort of electronic ignition. Sometimes, the electronic tachs won't work with an electronic ignition, though mine works fine with a Pertronix.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Cessna--

Bob is correct--Either he did not understand you or he does not know what he is talking about and may be reading off of a menu.
 

CessnaTPA

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Cessna--

Bob is correct--Either he did not understand you or he does not know what he is talking about and may be reading off of a menu.

I called back and talked to someone different and they confirmed the tach will not be affected, thanks.

I recently started a British car owners group on meetup.com and will be leading group drives so this post is something I'm following closely and taking in all the advice.
I'd like to add to the list replacing a old rusty gas tank, I know mine has stranded me twice before I discovered the culprit.
 
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Michael Oritt

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Cessna--

Not to seem like I own the string but replacing the fuel tank falls a bit outside the concept I had for this list. To be sure there is no limit to what one can do--a Jule frame, a new wiring harness, an AL head or five-speed transmission--all will add to the car's ultimate reliability and performance. It is those niggling smaller items that keep coming up and for which there are relatively simple fixes or upgrades that I have in mind, things that would be especially helpful to the new or uninitiated Healey owner.

But thanks for the contribution.
 

RAC68

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Although I have not installed a backup fuel pump, I carry a spare upper pump section (diaphragm up), to replace the section where a failure will most likely take place. My spare is an optical trigger head that was designed with 2 LBC friends as an experiment and performs flawlessly but does not have the tick. I leave the bottom of the pump in place so as not to have the risk of cross threading the fuel lines if replaced (as I did a while back). I appreciate that this is more of a task then just flipping a switch to a backup pump, however, I never expected to be this old and still have and using my Healey for 52 years and counting. Additionally, I also feel the original fuel filter setup is quite reliable and see no reason for changing (from a reliability perspective).

The one change I plan is to carry through on is my postponed install a GR Starter. I expect this change will provide quicker starts with less power draw ... a quality that is advantageous when using the car infrequently.

All in all, I have found my Healey to be quite reliable and has provided more then enough opportunity for entertaining creativity.

To continue Michael's list:
- Sealed wire wheels with tubeless tires.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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re: "... I also feel the original fuel filter setup is quite reliable and see no reason for changing (from a reliability perspective)."

Agree 100%. I see/hear people installing all manner of fuel filters in Healeys and wonder why; best to have a clean tank and lines. As a single--possibly irrelevant--data point, I replaced the fuel filter on my Ranger at 112K miles (IIRC, the shop manual insisted this be done every 20-30K miles). I cut the old filter open, and the only detritus that was in there were a few small flecks of what appeared to be black plastic--the tank was black plastic. I have not encountered any fuel quality-related issues in over 120K miles of driving my BJ8; I suspect the need for fuel filters is a holdover from the days when the quality of gasoline was a crap shoot, and it was dispensed from old steel tanks with exposure to moisture which, of course, were subject to rust and other crud. Also, an FI car would be more susceptible to even a tiny bit of crud in the fuel, but anything small enough to get past the thimble screens in the carbs would pass through the jets (but a spec under the float valve seat might cause an issue). Now, if someone comes up with a filter that removes ethanol they'd be on to something. As always, YMMV.
 

John Turney

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I had to replace a fuel filter in my Nissan PU after buying gas at an **** station a few years ago, so it still happens.
 
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