Bulletproofing your Healey

[Michael Oritt]

I have the editor's proof in PDF and have tried to reduce its size to that allowed by this forum but it is still way too big: The file is 479KB's and reduced in Preview for Mac it is still over 400 KB's, way in excess of the 48 KB's allowed

If you send me your email address as a PM I will be happy to send it to you. Similarly, if anyone has the ability to reduce the file's size so it can be posted to the forum please send me a PM and I will forward the file to you as well.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Andy--

Check your email. I cut and pasted the article into an email and assume it went through okay. If not let me know. And if you have a way of reducing the text and attaching it to a post here please be my guest as others have asked to see it but I cannot get the forum to accept the file due to its size,

 

[BBH]

All,

Please find below Michaels article, over the next few posts (apologies for splitting up) ......

BULLETPROOFING YOUR HEALEY
Michael Oritt--Capital Area Austin-Healey Club

​

Many readers may be familiar with The British Car Forum, an online discussion site having various sub-sites specific to particular cars, one being for “Big Healeys”. The BCF has been around for about 20 years and offers a convenient and searchable means to gain or share information related to various aspects of Healey ownership. Forum participants are friendly, helpful and knowledgeable and discussion topics range from esthetic to technical--and everywhere in between. There is no requirement that each post or topic be a case of first impression and often an inquiry dealing with a popular topic—say, changing a car’s polarity--may be posted even if an exhaustive discussion on the question may have taken place only a few weeks or months earlier, and another discussion on the pro’s and con’s of the matter will ensue, often with the same posters making the same points on each side of an argument. Sort of like Healey Whack-A-Mole and everyone seems to enjoy the exercise.


Though our cars and their systems are old the technology relating to some of their components has been advanced and where at one time we were only offered a direct replacement of the original part we now have choices that may increase our cars’ reliability, a quest dear to the hearts of many. And in an attempt to list in one place the most popular modifications made in this quest I recently posted to the BCF a topic entitled “Bulletproofing Your Healey”. The concept was to compose a list of things Healey owners most frequently do to increase the likelihood that their next drive, whether around the block or across the country, will end at its destination and not alongside the road or on a rollback. Issues of originality, cost, esthetics, safety or speed were not considerations.


I started off with eight or so such mods and invited other forum readers to respond. Suggestions were many and varied and I augmented the list accordingly. A number of thoughts were good ideas but somewhat off-topic, relating more to issues of safety, comfort or simple performance--—for example the installation of a 3.5:1 ring and pinion set in place of the stock 3.9:1 certainly enhances highway driving comfort but has no effect upon reliability and thus falls without the discussion’s purview.


This magazine’s editor, Reid Trummel, also serves as the forum’s moderator and he suggested that the discussion might be the basis for a Healey Marque article, so what follows is a restatement of those often-performed additions and modifications and a bit of background discussion on each.

 

[BBH]

1. Ignition System


The installation of an electronic breakerless ignition system is a popular and easily performed modification where the points and condenser inside the distributor are replaced with a pickup coil and electronic control unit. The unit is easily installed in
the stock distributor and once the air gap is established there is nothing to go out of adjustment or wear, and the periodic maintenance of the original points system— resetting of breaker gap and dwell due to wear, cleaning of the points faces, and/or possible condenser failure, etc.—are all things of the past.
Probably the most popular brand used is Pertronix, as it is designed to fit within the stock Lucas distributor and the only external clue to the unit’s presence is that there are two wires running from coil to distributor versus one. Other brands are available: Crane, Mallory--even Lucas had a go at it! Some of these will also fit within the stock Lucas distributor while others require either external control boxes or replacement distributors. Each has its proponents.


The argument against electronic breakerless ignition systems is that while they do not need maintenance their failure mode is often total—one minute they are fine and the next minute they have stopped working and must be replaced. For that reason many owners who install this mod retain the original parts, or a second module, on board “just in case”. Electronic ignitions are sensitive to overheating, which happens if the ignition key is left on without the engine running, but given the same situation breaker points may burn or pit if in contact with each other due to continuous current them. By the way, don’t forget to lubricate the breaker cam!
A distributor is an electromechanical device and subject to wear, so while it may not be 100% bulletproof an electronic ignition module comes about as close as the technology permits and thus makes the list as it increases the odds of having that trouble-free adventure. Conventional wisdom is that an electronic system should last around 25,000 miles whereas a points set will need replacement and/or maintenance within 5000.


When installing electronic distributors many people also replace the stock ignition coil with a “high output” unit, the theory being that these offer higher voltage which the electronic systems can utilize. However, since this modification offers only the hope of better performance versus increased reliability it is outside the scope of this discussion. However, there is another component connected—literally directly connected—to the coil that deserves mention here: the shutoff switch in the boot and the white/black wire that runs from the coil to it.


This switch has two circuits within it and when turned to off the battery ground connection to the frame is broken and at the same time the ignition coil is grounded out. If its intended purpose is to provide a means of theft-proofing sometimes it does its job all too well with no regard as to who is trying to drive the car. The switch is often the source of sudden, mysterious running problems and abrupt stoppages and is roundly condemned as being of poor design and shoddy construction. Because it is riveted together it does not invite easy disassembly though this can be done and the rivets replaced with screws. Nevertheless the internals are subject to wear and corrosion and nothing will result in a call to AAA faster than this switch’s failure.


An easy solution is to remove the switch—either from the car entirely or from the battery ground circuit--replacing the two pieces of wire that ran from the battery through the switch to the grounding point on the frame with one new lead, and tape off the coil end of the white/black wire, but that eliminates the anti-theft protection that the switch offers. Thankfully modern alternatives are available, including ones with removable keys such as the one installed on my 100 manufactured by Hella.

 

[BBH]

2. The Fuel System


Let’s look at another culprit that might take us off the road: the SU fuel pump. Being of venerable design it, like the distributor, was built with mechanical points that are subject to wear. As with distributors the pumps can be rebuilt with modern electronic internals or replaced with new electronic versions. The same arguments pro and con electronic ignitions apply here and one can name his poison.


An alternative approach is to plumb a second electric pump into the fuel system, usually between the tank and the original pump with a selector switch—the pumps having the ability to pull or push fuel through each other as the situation demands. Still another is to install a double-headed SU fuel pump which has two motors driving one pump, the thinking being that the electric motor section and not the pump section, is most subject to failure. That is the path I followed, and I chose to have both of its pumps converted to solid state.


A worthy addition to the fuel system is an inline fuel filter with a transparent body that can easily be inspected and replaced. Some people place them in the engine compartment near the carburetors but I prefer to have it upstream of the fuel pump in the line from the tank to keep debris from clogging the small screen built into the fuel pump.


Remember, by the way, that when you break the metal fuel line whether to install a second fuel pump or an inline filter you are also interrupting the fuel sender’s ground connection, so be sure to pull a wire from the sender body to earth.


The SU carburetor is a pretty simple and reliable device but sometimes the float in the bowl will develop a leak and sink to the bottom of the chamber, opening the jet and resulting in a flooded carb or a substantial fuel leak in close proximity to the exhaust system. An easy fix is to install the foam-filled floats that are impervious to sinking. Leaks at the float jet can be annoying and some have luck with Grose jets with or without Viton seats, though others do not.

 

[BBH]

3. The Cooling system


Perhaps because they were conceived to run in the cool weather of the British Isles Healeys do not always do well in warmer climes, and still more so when they get into stop and go traffic. Solutions here are more systemic and possibly costly: For example, an upgraded radiator will not produce much of an effect if the engine’s water passages are clogged, and visa versa. Nevertheless there are things one can do to make his overheater a cooler-running car that does not boil over at the thought of a traffic light.


Let’s begin with the cooling fan, which is supposed to pull copious amounts of air through the radiator and keep underhood temps in check. I know nothing about fan design and technology, but empiric evidence suggests that advances have been made. The so-called Texas Kooler fan, which is made of plastic and has assymetric placement of its six blades, has many proponents and supposedly moves more air than the stock unit. I won’t go into its history or promise but this article is worth a read: https://www.mossmotoring.com/cooling-the-handsome-brute-with-the- texas-kooler/


I replaced the stock four-bladed cast aluminum fan on my 100 with one of these and experienced—initially at least—some improvement of under-hood temps in stop- and-go traffic. However after a couple of years I noticed that the plastic blades had either lost some of their stiffness or taken a set, and when the engine was running they actually flexed toward the radiator and the fan had lost its ability to bite into the airstream. I ultimately installed an all-metal flex fan purchased from British Car Services which, though a bit noisier, has served me well over the years.


Another popular accessory is an auxiliary electric fan, mounted in front of the radiator and controlled either manually or by a thermostatic switch which supplies a flow of air to and through the radiator when the car is stationary or travelling at very low speed. Proponents—me being one of them—say that they are helpful in traffic. Those opposed say that they block more air than they supply, especially at higher speed.


The purpose of fans, whether engine or motor-driven, is to move air across the radiator fins and so dissipate engine heat stored in the coolant and transferred to the core. Thus, the radiator’s ability to make this transfer is probably where the greatest improvement in cooling efficiency can be realized, and the most money spent. Assuming that the engine’s water passages and radiator core are clean and still not able to cope with engine heat the installation of a new radiator core with more tubes is often the only and best solution.


Because of the Healeys’ design one cannot simply throw in a larger radiator but thicker cores with more tubes in a staggered configuration can be fit within the original shell and can accomplish a lot. I had this done to my 100 a number of years back and while I still try to avoid stop- and-go traffic the car is much more able to handle it than before. Finding a good radiator repair shop is not easy these days as cars are now made with aluminum and plastic units that are discarded and replaced, not repaired, but they are out there. When considering a radiator upgrade keep in mind that while aluminum is lighter than copper it is also less efficient in transferring heat, which is the reason why we are doing this in the first place!

 

[BBH]

4. The Electrical System


Let’s begin with the Big Picture: your Healey is at least 50 years old and though copper wire is a great conductor it work hardens and corrodes, resulting in less or no conductivity. I’m not recommending that one replace the entire wiring sytem on a recreational basis but the point is that new harnesses are out there and available from several sources in various configurations ranging in appearance from cloth- covered “correct” to modern. To be sure this is not a job to be taken lightly and is usually done when a car is undergoing an extensive restoration, but if your wires are worn, cut, patched, etc. etc. there is a solution!


Wires, and the appliances that they energize, are protected by fuses, the concept being that in case of an overload an easily replaced fusible link will melt before either the circuit or whatever it is energizing overheats and expires from too much current. For whatever reason the concept of separately fused circuits seems not to have been adopted by the folks who built our cars and Healeys had but two fuses 35 and 50 amps respectively, to which all circuits connected.


With all due respect one might as well use a 16d nail and I am an advocate of installing a modern multi-fuse panel by which one can separate the circuits and protect them with fuses that will actually blow before the wiring melts! If originality in appearance is a consideration such a panel can be installed in an innocuous but reasonable accessible place and the original fuse holders and wires kept as dummies. Some people way smarter than me say that some circuits—the headlights for example--not be fused and there are good arguments yea and nay, but unless one enjoys pulling new wires and replacing electrical components with the ever-present threat of dealing with fire I suggest that this be considered a priority upgrade.


No discussion of Healey electrics would be complete without considering conversion to negative ground and while this in and of itself does not increase reliability it is a necessary step if one wants to install an alternator in place of the original generator. There’s no logical reason to stick with a generator: they are less efficient and reliable and while replacement alternators can be found virtually anywhere a generator must either be repaired by a specialist or replaced through an online supplier, in any case resulting in downtime. However if you want your engine bay to appear original and don’t mind dealing with intermittent lower voltage, possible control box adjustment, bushing failure, etc. you can stay with the generator and avoid switching to negative ground which also involves making changes to polarized components such as fuel pumps, ignitions, etc.


Another electrical upgrade to consider is the installation of a gear reduction starter. In addition to bringing increased reliability to the table these little wonders will crank an engine at increased speed and sometimes this is all that is needed to fire off a car that is hard to start. They are supplied with universal mounting rings and can simply be indexed and bolted into place of the original unit. One may opt to use the solenoids that are built into them or keep the original relay and its wiring.


No doubt readers will have additional, worthy suggestions and/or comments and hopefully the editor will see fit to include them in future issues of this magazine. None of my suggestions reflects any original thinking on my part and I certainly have no pride of authorship, so by all means “keep those cards and letters coming” and in any case let’s hope we will not meet each other alongside of the road.

 

[Hobbes]

Michael,

I read your full article in Healey Marque - great article! One question for you: I'm restoring a 61 BT7 which the owner prior to the owner I bought it from did a "rebuild" and the owner I bought it from started pulling it apart to paint (we're a long way from that step). At any rate, it's been torn down to one degree or another for at least 15 years. Anyhow, many of your recommendations assume/require a change to negative ground. My questions: Is there any documentation on how to do this and how would you tell if it's already (possibly) been done?

No battery was in the car, but I have a couple of hints that this might have already been done. First, the fuel pump was a generic "Made in USA" model wrapped in a piece of CARQUEST radiator hose as a shim, hose clamped to a hardware store angle iron turned on someone's bench vise to serve as a mounting bracket. I'm going to guess that pump wasn't made for positive earth. Secondly, there is some sort of electrical hub under the dash where a collection of suspiciously modern looking plastic crimp connected wires are connected.

Having never reversed polarity on a car before, I'm just looking for the "right" way to do this - the mods you're suggesting are reasonable and don't meaningfully change the cosmetics of the car, so I'd like to add at least some to my rebuild plan of attack. Any information you might have would be much appreciated!

 

[Deleted member 21878]

back up fuel pump....
for my old TD anyway.

 

[Deleted member 21878]

hobbes
i read this article
https://www.spritespot.com/Downloads/Positive to Negative Ground Conversion.pdf

 

[RAC68]

Hi Michael,

Very well written and an invaluable encapsulation of the main Healey modification required if the car is to be driven with confidence.

Great job,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[Michael Oritt]

Hobbes--

That's an interesting question and off the top of my head the only definitive ways would be to find installed some negative ground item such as the fuel pump, solid state ignition or perhaps a radio. I agree that the fuel pump you are describing is negative ground and as a test if its chassis is grounded to the frame of the car you could bring 12VDC+ to it and see if it operates. You can also see how the coil is wired--whether the positive lead is to the positive contact or visa versa.

As to the actual conversion process, the article that Drone Dog cites is as good as any and since you are essentially starting out from scratch now is the time to get and properly install those appliances that are polarity sensitive.

The fact that you hail from Boise reminded me that it has been ten years since Dave Russell--also from Boise--passed away. He forgot more than most of us ever knew and was a prolific contributor of insightful advice. I wonder what ever happened to his BN1--I remember his telling me privately that his family had absolutely no interest in what was a wonderfully cared for car.

 

[Hobbes]

Hobbes--

The fact that you hail from Boise reminded me that it has been ten years since Dave Russell--also from Boise--passed away. He forgot more than most of us ever knew and was a prolific contributor of insightful advice. I wonder what ever happened to his BN1--I remember his telling me privately that his family had absolutely no interest in what was a wonderfully cared for car.

Do you know if his BN1 had the Le Mans modification? We just had the Southwestern Idaho All-British Field meet yesterday and I was talking to one of our members about his 100-4, which was a beautiful car with the Le Mans modification which he mentioned he had been rebuilt about 15 years ago and which he had purchased from the estate of the owner. Interesting coincidence if so!

Thanks too to you and Drone Dog for the pointers! In my case, the car was pretty pulled apart when I bought it, and while I took pictures of the fuel pump, did not check the polarity before pulling it. The coil however is unmodified so I'll see what I can learn from that. Thanks! (again)

 

[Michael Oritt]

Hobbes--

Dave died in 2008 and though he or his heirs may have sold his car around his date of death it was certainly not in 2002.

Dave's car looked just like mine, and he also had a NICAL hardtop though whether it was fitted I don't know. I cannot recall wether or not he had the Le Mans mods.

 

[Hobbes]

Oh, he said that that the restoration happened 15 years ago, not the sale. It sounded like the sale actually happened in the relatively recent past (1 or 2 years ago) from the estate. The car I saw yesterday was also red but no hardtop. I'll ask the new owner (also a Dave) if he bought it from Dave Russell. I can't believe there are too many mint condition, red 100-4s running around Boise.

Cheers!