1500 - water pump kaput

[Billm]

You said "No Joy" to using the starter- why? what happened?
I see that you have an extension on the breaker bar- that is a BIG NO-NO!!
It will cause the assembly to pop off on the first try.
Try it again without any extension (or preferably with a box wrench and not a socket).
BillM

 

[jlaird]

Think about a 6 foot peice of pipe as a breaker bar on that socket. With a bar that long you could turn the car over.

 

[Guest]

Think about a 6 foot peice of pipe as a breaker bar on that socket. With a bar that long you could turn the car over.

But then he'd have to work upside down.

He'd have a heck of a time propping the hood open too.

 

[bigjones]

Thanks for the responses.

I'll put my battery on charge this morning (maybe it was run down a bit, though I doubt it). Then I'll try again with the breaker bar. I had to use that small extension to clear the rack.

The socket size is 1 and 7/8" so I don't have a wrench that big (ha!), besides, the mega-nut is recessed into the pulley so you can only get a socket on it.

When I hit the starter, it made a big clunk and stopped. I tried half a dozen times. This method worked first time on the ole TR3.

I'm not adverse to the rope trick. I used that method on the ole TR3 to separate the head from the block when I had to replace the head gasket. 'Course the valve pedestal has to come off first to close all the valves before you do this.

What I don't understand is: if the engine does not attempt to go backward, how come you have to lock the crankshaft.

Sigh.

 

[Guest]

Lock the crank to use a breaker bar, not a gun.

 

[bigjones]

Lock the crank to use a breaker bar, not a gun.

OK, fair enough.

Well, I tried again today - no luck. Don't know if it is the impact gun or the compressor or both. Also re-tried the starter motor/breaker bar method with a re-charged battery - it is trying to knock it free but no joy.

Also had a horrible thought - if I can get the dang thing off, how am I going to re-install it to 150 ft-lbs? I mean how am I going to stop the engine turning?

Haynes says use the hand brake in 4th but Kellysguy says that risks the axles.

Think I'm going to live with the oil leak. Maybe next time I have the oil pan off.

Thanks for all the help - it's been a good learning experience.

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

When I tried to torque my diff flange nut (I believe to 150#) you could feel the axles twisting.

Pull the pan, throw some rob bearings in there while you're in the neighborhood. Don't forget to change rod bolts too.

 

[bigjones]

Pull the pan, throw some rod bearings in there while you're in the neighborhood. Don't forget to change rod bolts too.

Well, I've been in there "recently" and replaced rod, main and thrust bearings. Don't want to re-live it until very necessary :laugh:

Like Morris says, the next time it will be easier to pull the radiator and move the rack out of the way.

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

I thought you may have been there but wasn't sure. You've been having too many adventures lately and it's hard to keep up.

 

[Morris]

It's not the 150#s that makes the nut hard to remove... it's the years of rust and grime. You can get it back to 150#s easy.

You may consider the rope-in-the-combustion-chamber trick. You don't have to remove the rocker pedestal. Just roll the engine until both valves close on the chosen cylinder then cram said cylinder full of thick string or thick rope.

The combustion chamber is huge on these stupid 1500s. I but you could cram 50 yards of rope in there. :wink:

 

[bigjones]

I thought you may have been there but wasn't sure. You've been having too many adventures lately and it's hard to keep up.

Yeah. The latest was re-carpeting. I took your advice and got proper car carpet of the approx correct color. Kind of cruel that the car then breaks down with a faulty distributor cap and bad water pump, but hey.

Morris,
With the rope trick, I then assume I can use a breaker bar (as Jack said, with a length of piping over the handle)?

Cheers

 

[Guest]

Yeah, just make sure the valves are closed, back the adjusters off. Don't get freaky, but this method worries me if a cylinder loaded with fuel or water can bend a rod with just starter force, how much more so with a cheater bar?????

 

[Morris]

Good point. Maybe the rope is not such a good idea after all.

 

[JPSmit]

Good point. Maybe the rope is not such a good idea after all.

+1

this job is getting nutty - before we go further are we 100% completely sure that is where the leak is coming from? I have a stripped bolt on the pan right at the front of the car that drips - could easily be mistaken for the timing chain cover area

 

[Guest]

Good point. Maybe the rope is not such a good idea after all.

+1

this job is getting nutty - before we go further are we 100% completely sure that is where the leak is coming from? I have a stripped bolt on the pan right at the front of the car that drips - could easily be mistaken for the timing chain cover area

Mine did that too. Ihad to heli coil it. It's that stupid pot metal cross piece.

Now here's the thing, if you're gonna pull the timing cover off, just be sure not to disturb the back plate-to-block gasket. (which I don't believe it will.)

Myself personally, this is why I pulled the motor, as you have to undo the mounts to change the gasket b/w the back plate and the block. I didn't want to risk disturbing a 30+ year old paper gasket by loosening anything with the timiing cover, so I just pulled the motor.


My advice is, seeing winter is approaching; to pull the motor, change all the seals, install fresh rings, check clutch and other hard to get to stuff. Might be a good time to address the rust beneath the radiator.

Anyway, if you do all of that, and your check engine light comes on, or you have squeaks in the shower curtain rack, DON'T CALL ME !!!

 

[bigjones]

Ha! Too late:

I went at it last night - note the valve pedestal removed for added insurance. I put some black pipe on the breaker bar and pulled down but no joy. I was really expecting something to go bang. I was pulling with an estimated 50 lbs and the breaker bar length was at least 4 1/2 ft so that gives, really approximately, 225 ft-lbs. Did not feel comfortable pulling harder - I had the fender protected with bunched up moving blankets but maybe the crank nut is not the weakest link, if you know what I mean, though never thought about bending con rods!

I think all is well - I put the pedestal back on and re-set the valves no problem. (Nice being able to turn the crank nut to rotate the engine!)

When I had the PCV hose connected to the pipe on the ZS carb the oil leak was reduced to a couple of drops. The HS4 doesn't have the same pipe (the hole has been plugged at the factory) Really do not want to attempt to drill it out (being a new carb, and all) but maybe I should give it a try.

Cheers!

PS. Good pun, JP

 

[Guest]

- I had the fender protected with bunched up moving blankets

If it were me, I'd have used stationary ones. You never know if the moving ones will be in the right spot when the nut gives.

 

[bigjones]

If it were me, I'd have used stationary ones.

:lol: Good one!

I hear you on the rust - I was going to just paint on some rust converter and screw in a license plate. Also, another plate in that square opening - the plate fits there like magic! - in an attempt to blow the air from the fan around the compartment rather than just out again:

Cheers!

 

[Guest]

I hear you on the rust - I was going to just paint on some rust converter and screw in a license plate. Also, another plate in that square opening - the plate fits there like magic! - in an attempt to blow the air from the fan around the compartment rather than just out again:

Cheers!

Traditionaly, license plates go on the ~back~ of the car. You may live in a state that requires a front plate. While technically, what you have proposed fits the definition, I'm sure they meant for the plate to be mounted to the ~outside~ of the car. :wink:

Wasn't this a Jeff Foxworthy joke?

"You might be a redneck if.... :hammer:

 

[jlaird]

If the plugs are out there will be no water/oil lock. Only rope lock. No danger at all.