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1500 - water pump kaput

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Kellysguy,
Well, I thought they were an upgrade from STOP signs, besides they fit perfect, come pre-painted, lightweight, rust-free and even have the screw holes.

Jack,
I think what was meant is it has been known that when the engine is prevented from turning (as in water lock) the con rods can bend. So when Jones is doing the same (stuffing rope in to prevent the engine from turning)the same unfortunate thing could happen.

Fortunately I chickened out - I was pulling on that black pipe something fierce but not like my life depended on it. You are my inspiration for getting an oil-leak free MG but I'm going to have to let you down this time.

Cheers!
 
Well, I expect if I could not get it to budge as is. I would pack everything behind it and around it with wet towling or something like it and put the heat to the bolt. Keeping several fire extengishers handy.

However, that said, I think I would find a new compressor and wrench to give another last shot. Can you trailer the car to a big time garage to have it hammered?

A Big Hammer on the pipe/wrench to provide shock value might help.
 
kellysguy said:
bigjones said:
Kellysguy,
Well, I thought they were an upgrade from STOP signs!
Click to expand...

Just a joke me brother.
Click to expand...

I know that - I was just joking back
grin.gif


Jack,
Yes, I need a better impact gun for sure and probably a compressor.

Anyways, I'm putting it all back together today. Tomorrow the water pump should arrive and I'll be back on the road.

Cheers!
 
Sigh, I did not mean buy I ment borrow.
 
bigjones said:
Kellysguy,
Well, I thought they were an upgrade from STOP signs, You are my inspiration for getting an oil-leak free MG but I'm going to have to let you down this time.
Click to expand...

Well, I don't think the STOP sign would have worked anyway.


Oil can't read.
grin.gif
 
If that won't do it there is no answer.
 
Gap-1.jpg


OK, I'm putting things back together.
First the steeering rack.
Had a spot of bother getting that splined shaft in the steering shaft. Tried to finesse them together for about two hours with pry bars, etc. Then I got really mad and grabbed the pieces and forced them together, ha!

Anyways, before I took the spine apart there was a gap of approx 3/16". Now there isn't any gap - see green arrow. That's OK, right?

Also, you just move the rack along until there is approx the same gap at both ends, yellow arrows, right? Then install the "caps" and tighten down.

Kind of important stuff this - don't want to mess up - like forgetting to put in the cinch bolt!

Anything I should pay attention to?

Cheers!
 
yes it's OK and yes it's OK - just never miss the opportunity to grease parts
 
JP,
Never thought of greasing things up.
I oiled the spline.
Should I apply grease to the steering rack where it is held down?
Thanks!
 
bigjones said:
JP,
Never thought of greasing things up.
I oiled the spline.
Should I apply grease to the steering rack where it is held down?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

no, once it is bolted in place it won't move. lock tite the bolts though - you don't want it to come loose
 
You got the bolt flat lined up with the bolt hole? Shaft only goes on one way. Just checkin'.
 
JPSmit said:
...lock tite the bolts though - you don't want it to come loose
Click to expand...

Yeah, I lock-tite every nut and bolt these days.

kellysguy said:
You got the bolt flat lined up with the bolt hole? Shaft only goes on one way. Just checkin'.
Click to expand...

Good point! Yeah, I managed to remember that - it would be sad if you got the splined bolt in but then couldn't get the pinch bolt to slide in!

Cheers!
 
Most only go on like that and aren't splined in that area. I don't know on these, as I haven't taken mine loose yet cause I HATE doing it.
 
Yeah, there was a flat area on the splines. Of course, I made sure that corresponded to where the cinch bolt goes on re-assembly.

(I've been racking my brain where I had last seen that and it suddenly came back to me - the gear change pedal on my Triumph Tiger Cub (200 cc motor bike) that I had in 1970 (!!!) man, I wish I still had that - happy days)

Cheers!
 
These water pumps don't need running dry for a minute do they?

Moss Motors has a paragraph in their TR3 catalog saying not to put the coolant in the radiator until the pump had run for a minute to bed in the pump. Something about the carbon faced seal.

It's not in the Spridget catalog but I thought I would better check.

Cheers!
 
I just filled and started mine up - no problems
 
bigjones said:
These water pumps don't need running dry for a minute do they?

Moss Motors has a paragraph in their TR3 catalog saying not to put the coolant in the radiator until the pump had run for a minute to bed in the pump. Something about the carbon faced seal.

It's not in the Spridget catalog but I thought I would better check.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

I've sold ten million pumps. There was/has been an old wive's tale about this. You were supposed to turn the pump by hand 10-20 turns to seat the seal.

I myself haven't turned or "seated" pump in 20 years.

Dad may weigh in on this.

Dad, got yer ears on?
 
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