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1500 - water pump kaput

m,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to change the gasket, no matter what. (that's the easy bit!)
OK, I'll measure what it takes to break the nuts free. Re-torque and re-do the leak down test.

I put the rope in #1 plug hole only, btw.

Cheers!
 
bigjones said:
m,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to change the gasket, no matter what. (that's the easy bit!)
OK, I'll measure what it takes to break the nuts free. Re-torque and re-do the leak down test.

I put the rope in #1 plug hole only, btw.

Cheers!

pay close attention to the bolts around that number one piston.


m
 
bigjones said:
SilentUnicorn said:
Definitely a new gasket based on your leak down results. and take a good look at where the head bolts go into the block. I might bet dollars to donuts you will find you have stretched the cast iron threads in the block. Just how hard to you twist on this? You will want to inspect this area very carefully.

m
Who do I pray to? MOWOG may not be appropriate


Just don't stand close to me when you do.
 
isnt that a STANPART block?

lol


m

ps i need a picture fix......jonesing her
 
kellysguy said:
Billm said:
How's a "Multipla" sound?? :smile:



I don't know. From the look of JP's, Id have to say :sleep:

That's cold man, cold.

I think you and the Multipla have much in common.

<span style="text-decoration: line-through">Face only a mother can love....</span>

er, I mean,

<span style="text-decoration: line-through">the looks grow on you.....</span>

er, I mean

<span style="text-decoration: line-through">so ugly it's cute....</span>

er, never mind
 
I set the torque wrench at 20 ft-lb and this was sufficient to undo all the CH nuts. Not sure what that implies.

The good news is that I could retorque all the nuts to 26, 36, 46.

New leak down results: 75, 50, 52, 60 (from an initial of 80 psi)

Trying to visualize this: The rope was down #1 plug hole - maybe this levered the CH away from 2,3 and 4. Or is that faulty thinking.

Unless someone wants more analyzing, I'll pull the CH and see what's what.

Cheers!!!!
 
The head is off.

Block-1.jpg


Looks like a tad amount of coolant was getting in there, what!

CH.jpg

Bit of a mess and not much to see right now - tomorrow I'll clean up and post some more photos of anything interesting.

The really good news is that all the head studs feel solidly in place, ie not stripped.

Cheers!
 
messy but glad you pulled it!
 
I've cleaned up the head and block some but need to get to the store for some Gasket Remover to get it all off. Then I can lay a straight edge down and see if anything is warped.

It's usually best policy to take the head to a machinist for a light skim, regardless, right? Or should I bother?

The studs at the top are OK (not stretched) as I could thread a nut down, all the way, on all of them.

Should I bother taking the rocker assembly apart and clean? Looks like it is getting plenty of oil. Moss doesn't carry the 3 rocker springs but VB does (I wonder where they are made though). I'll probably leave it alone.

Anyways, more tomorrow.

Cheers!
 
I took mine apart and cleaned/polished them. I'd also take it in for a check/skim.
 
kellysguy said:
...I took mine apart and cleaned/polished them...
Kellysguy,

Proud of you, man. Maybe I'll do the same. Kinda waiting on the gasket now, anyways.

Cleaned up the head somewhat and done a quick check of the flatness. The ruler rocked downwards, at the back of the head, at the end opposite plug hole #1 (where I fed in the rope). And I could fit an 8 thou feeler blade in there. Kinda makes sense - bigjones pulls down on the breaker bar and actually bends cast iron, ar, ar!! You have been proved right, Kellysguy, I should have put smalljones on the breaker bar!

Anyways, it is at the machine shop, awaiting a pressure test for cracks and a skimming.

The new Gasket Remover from Permatex is slightly more effective than spit, but a lot more expensive - $10 for a tiny bottle. But hey!! It comes with a brush!!

Of course, when I gets home, I go looking for the can of Copper Coat and I finds 2 cans of the old Permatex Gasket Remover. Ha! But no Copper Coat. Must have used it all on the last CH fiasco. Can't remember.

Feeling kind of ornery today for some reason - maybe I'd better go and clean up the block. Keep busy.

Cheers!
 
Spitbits.com carries all the parts for the rocker assembly... but if it ain't broke...
 
Morris,
Thanks for the link!
I was going to include the 3 springs for the rocker assembly in my order to Moss Motors but for some reason they don't sell them.
VB does but I think spitbits may be a better bet wrt quality.
Cheers!
 
Get a 90 degree die grinder and the abrasive wheel kit and you'll never look at gasket removal the same again. I could clean both the head and block in about five minutes and it'd look like it just got out the machine shop.
 
Wow!

Can you describe the abrasive wheels that are safe to use on the block.

I have one of those hand held grinder things from HF - $9.99 or something. Most handy for cutting things in two but has to be the most dangerous tool ever invented. I have to change my mindset to total seriousness whenever I pick it up.

Not sure I want to bring this up but I suppose I should remove the studs for proper cleaning of the block? Visions of snapped studs. I know something is going to bite me in the backside before I am through with this job.

Still can't find that can of Copper Coat. Got me thinking. Maybe I should head out to the Harley place and get a tube of Yamabond instead. It has held up in my TR3 for 10 years, in place of Copper Coat. Just thinking.

Cheers!
 
I use a razor blade to get close to the studs. HF and Advance have the wheel kits. YOu can use the sand grit discs on cast iron but the scotchbrite ones are more forgiving.
 
Kellysguy,
Thanks for the info on the sanding discs.
Here's my grinder from HF:

grinder.jpg


Are these the scotchbrite discs that would work on my grinder - I was thinking of taking off the saftey guard when polishing, or would that be real bad.

OK, the head gasket has arrived. Here is the plan. I'll spray it with Copper Coat and install, with torque settings of 16, 26, 36, 46 ft-lb increments.

If something goes wrong when I'm tightening them nuts, you will hear the scream from where you are sitting.

I'll leave it for tomorrow (to let the Copper Coat dry) and then test with the leak down tester. Or do I really have to wait 'til tomorrow?

Cheers!
 
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