• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

1500 - water pump kaput

Share this page

OK, I remove the pinch bolt.

Now, where do I tap with the drift and hammer? You are going to have to spell it out for me. Is it a,b or c. Left to my own devices I would put something up c and bang with a hammer.
Spline.jpg


Hey, while we are at it - I notice that Haynes refers to that small bolt on top of a larger, in the center of the photo, as a grease cap - am I supposed to remove that and squirt some grease down there?
No kidding, I've never done any thing with that. I took a hypodermic and shot some oil through the rubbers gaiters a while back but that is it.

Cheers!
Hmm, maybe not. Perhaps I would tap at location "b". But would the steering shaft move upward as desired?
 
Tap B towards the steering wheel. yeah, that's a "grease cap" but I haven't been able to get any lube in it.
 
Remove nut B, tap bolt out. Remove stearing shaft.

I think the bolt you have labled C is actually a spring loaded thing to apply pressure to the rack inside shaft. So careful but the center bolt can be removed to lub, use 90 wt oil.

Now what??
 
IIRC, the 1500 rack calls for grease, not oil. It's different than the rack used on the earlier cars.
 
Oh, okies. Will try to remember that, thanks.
 
Spline2.jpg

Got this far but that danged spline won't let go. I've been pounding on it for an hour now. :madder: Yes, I have a screw driver banged into the slot in an attempt to spread it out a bit.

Am I missing something - do the front wheels need to be up in the air for some reason, for example?

Seems like I'm doing something wrong - where does the shaft go when I knock it upwards?

Cheers
 
Use pb blaster "There is No Substitute", tap radially on the spline pinch clamp to help break it loose- use a nice hunk of hardwood and tap the rack down- off the spline.


This is what i have done and it works.


m
 
Try bolting the rack back in... it may be binding. The first time I removed that durn thing it was a little tough because of rust and hardened grease. The steering shaft is a two piece sliding type arrangement. Maybe spray a litte lube where the two pieces slide together.

Sorry it's taking you so long. I just did this on my own car and it took maybe 5 minutes to move the rack. Of course I forgot that it was a little tougher the first time I did it.
 
have you loosened the rack at the top? - where it does into the firewall and under the dash? you may not have enough slack to move it.
 
Thanks for the tips, folks.

I moved the rack to the left so that the alloy housing would clear the angle iron (arrowed) when the rack comes back and the splined joint came apart no problem. Ha!

Removed one of the brackets (arrowed), as Morris suggests, and at last I could get the honking socket on the crank nut.

However, the impact wrench could not shift it. Connected up the breaker bar as shown and hit the starter. No joy.

Looks like I'm SOL, unless someone has a bright idea.

CrankNut2.jpg


PS. Just thought of what Kellysguy said about oiling up the impact gun. I put 6 drops of the correct oil in - should I just go ahead and oil it 'til it's full? I lost the "instructions" for this compressor set after I decided it was a POS - made more noise than anything useful. Is it the compressor or the gun that is not up to snuff?
Hey! What if I put it in gear and ram it with my Camry?
 
can you adjust the torque on the gun? It might be spinning there
 
bigjones said:
Hey! What if I put it in gear and ram it with my Camry?
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea put you'll need an english to metric adapter.


What is the comp reg set at? Crank it all the way up. How long is the hose? Run as short a hose as possible. Try tightening the nut, then reverse the gun while it's running. I've had luck with that before. Flip it back and forth sevral times If you can get a big pipe wrench acroos the front u-joint and let the wrench hit the tunnel, put it in 4th then use the breaker bar.

Your gun might be too weak. It'll bleed down that small compressor quick, so watch your pressure and let the compressor build back up. Those small units make it more difficult to use a gun on a big nut.
 
JP,
Yeah, I tried the various torque settings.

Kellysguy,
According to the compressor it was at 120 psi - that is about the max. I bled it down that hit it when it had built it back up again. Nuttin'.

I've sprayed the nut with PB Blaster - I'll try in the morning with the tighten-loosen technique.

Haven't got a big pipe wrench - I guess puttting on the handbrake wouldn't cut it, would it? I'll give that a try.

Daft question but shouldn't the impact gun at least turn the engine backwards?

Cheers
 
bigjones said:
JP,
I guess puttting on the handbrake wouldn't cut it, would it? I'll give that a try.

Daft question but shouldn't the impact gun at least turn the engine backwards?

Cheers
Click to expand...

(please excuse my firmness)

NO!!!! DO NOT DO THAT !!!!! :eeek:

You will twist your axles. ( ask me how I know.) :wink:

and nope, the impact won't turn the motor backwards. It may move it slightly, but won't turn it.
 
doesn't have a lock washer (the bend over type) does it? (I can't remember)
 
kellysguy said:
You will twist your axles.
Click to expand...
Sounds painful, I promise not to do it.

JPSmit said:
doesn't have a lock washer (the bend over type) does it?
Click to expand...
Good thinking JP but no, it doesn't.

Hey! How about I jack the car up, put the breaker bar on and then lower the car, using the car's weight to turn the breaker bar? Something would have to give!
 
OK was just looking at my books and, first off, the nut is torqued to 150 lb/ft so it is on there tight.

Bentley says - "fit a flywheel locking tool to the starter motor aperture.

Assuming you don't have one,

Haynes says - "To prevent the crankshaft turning, the flywheel must be locked or the sump removed and and a block of wood placed between the crankshaft and the inner cylinder block walls."

one more step and hopefully it will work
 
JP, thanks for looking that up.

150 ft-lbs - that's insanity.

Nope, don't have a flywheel locking tool. Is that related to the Churchill tool?

Sump removed - aaaagh! Wake me up from this nightmare!

Where's Kellysguy and his guns? I want to do an Elvis on this evil car! Maybe the additional ventilation will lower the under hood temperatures!

I'm beginning to think that if I improve the PCV that the oil leak will stop. Yes, that's it. Problemo solved.

It's all over - move along - nothing to see here!
 
I don't thin there is enough room, but try to stick a big screwdriver through the front u-joint. Can you borrow a better gun?

Torque setting doesn't matter cause reverse is wide open no matter where it's set at.

I would say to do the rope trip in the cylinder but I do not like that at all. I'd prefer the block of wood.
 
"To prevent the crankshaft turning, the flywheel must be locked or the sump removed and and a block of wood placed between the crankshaft and the inner cylinder block walls."

That and a 5 ft long cheater bar got mine broke loose the first time. It' comes off easy now. I keep forgetting how hard all this stuff was to do the first time.

*sigh*
Sorry brother.
 
Back
Top