TR4/4A TR4A Assembly by a rookie (me!)

[Popeye]

And it’s in! I put the accelerator shaft on after dropping the body on chassis. This would have been easier before dropping the body, but also the shaft would be one more thing to look out for as the body comes down. (And should not be bent.)

I also installed the egr system. My bracket seems to have a funny bend in it - but it works as-is (and the band seems precise if it was accidentally bent), so I left it be.

Water pump is progressing; carbs hopefully also!

 

[Popeye]

Next is shimming the body and assembly… should this be a new thread, or should I keep going here?

 

[charlie74]

Congratulations! That is quite a milestone and it looks like you’re doing a great job, well done!

 

[DrEntropy]

Next is shimming the body and assembly… should this be a new thread, or should I keep going here?

Tremendous progress Mike! Well done.

A new thread (IMHO) isn't really necessary if folks have followed your project to now, but may be helpful if a future search for body/chassis assembly comes along. But then be sure to link them together. The other thing would be; what do you do when the wiring becomes a subject? Another thread?

My suggestion would be to just change the "Engine" word in your thread title to: "Restoration &" to make it simple. An admin could make that change.

 

[Popeye]

A few small updates: installing the wiring harness, pretty straightforward, once I got things positioned (I connected the panel voltage regulator and the big voltage regulator in the front - and this pretty well positioned the harness forwards/backwards). I had labeled every end of the original harness, and transposed to new labels on the new harness. This took a good bit of time! Interestingly, the old harness wire colors do not perfectly match the new, but the new matches the wiring diagram from Advanced Wire.

I installed the fuel tank, mainly because it is a large box on my storage shelf. I also put the spare tire in, for the same reason - to clear space in the shop.

Finally, with some help from my daughter, we installed the horns.

I received a new thermostat and housing from TRF, and the water pump arrived from Oregon. That part of the engine will be buttoned up shortly. As an aside, the new thermostat housing looks great. I expected I would have to do some finish work to match the other half, but no need! (The old one was significantly pitted.)

Apologies for the upside down photos…again, I’m posting from my iPhone.

 

[KVH]

Mike, back to your engine dolly on that furniture dolly--does the oil pan flange sit on those 2X4 braces, or is the width of the space wide enough to clear the flanges? Is all the weight on the bottom of the oil pan and lower plywood bracing? What about stability? I get nervous about the thought of the engine tipping over while I watch helplessly. Those dollies can be misleading. Was stability an issue for you?

 

[KVH]

Mike, I'm forgetting. Maybe clear from your post, but who painted your car? Are you a body man?

 

[charlie74]

Mike, back to your engine dolly on that furniture dolly--does the oil pan flange sit on those 2X4 braces, or is the width of the space wide enough to clear the flanges? Is all the weight on the bottom of the oil pan and lower plywood bracing? What about stability? I get nervous about the thought of the engine tipping over while I watch helplessly. Those dollies can be misleading. Was stability an issue for you?

Not to steal Mike’s thunder but I did much the same with my TR6 engine (post #66) and while on the cradle it did not rest on the oil pan flange but the pan bolt heads. As far as stability, it sat on that cradle for nearly two months without any issues. Those dollies are pretty cheaply made so I supplemented the cross pieces with some other thin bits of wood that helped prevent it sagging.
If your garage floor is flat and smooth and you don’t tempt fate by moving it around excessively it should be fine…

 

[Popeye]

Not to steal Mike’s thunder but I did much the same with my TR6 engine (post #66) and while on the cradle it did not rest on the oil pan flange but the pan bolt heads. As far as stability, it sat on that cradle for nearly two months without any issues. Those dollies are pretty cheaply made so I supplemented the cross pieces with some other thin bits of wood that helped prevent it sagging.
If your garage floor is flat and smooth and you don’t tempt fate by moving it around excessively it should be fine…

Exactly. No worries about stealing thunder. Collectively we are much smarter (especially me).

The engine sits on the bolt heads. It is not super-stable, but far from unstable. Roll it slowly, and no problems. (Typical concrete garage floor.) I was significantly more worried when lifting the engine on to the chassis, and then lifting the body over the assembled frame/engine!!

 

[Popeye]

Mike, I'm forgetting. Maybe clear from your post, but who painted your car? Are you a body man?

I started the body work, finishing the driver side floor pan and sills. The remainder I gave to a body shop to compete and paint. They used my car as filler work between insurance work (ie when the owner is paying staff but they don’t have work), so it took the better part of four years. No complaints on my end - I knew this going on and they did a very nice job.

 

[Popeye]

A few updates, long overdue:

I am completing the cooling system. I got the pump back from the Flying Dutchman. I then promptly realized the keyway on the matching pulley was knackered (not part of the rebuild by the Dutchman; he only had the bare pump). I ordered new from TRF. There is discussion on the interwebs on matching key dimensions. The original pump has an 1/8” key and so does the replacement pulley. I also happen to have new a replacement pump, and it has a 3mm key (0.118”). I’m not sure how things would end up if I used new pump and new pulley? Anyhow, thanks to the Dutchman I don’t have to worry about that. (Less than $200 - and four months - for a rebuilt pump with an uprated impeller.)

One half of my thermostat housing was significantly pitted on the inside, so I ordered a replacement from TRF. I am impressed with the new unit: its finish matches the old. (I feared I would have to polish the aluminum casting on the replacement part - but instead I was tempted to polish the mating original piece! I decided that aluminum oxidizes pretty quickly, and installed both parts as-is.) I am using a sleeved thermostat (expensive!), despite some debate on its necessity vs an ordinary $7 item from a FLAPS.

Also a local radiator shop repaired a few holes in my radiator - ones I accidentally made while replacing my garage door… argh! (But $125 is much cheaper than near $500 for a replacement.)

After installing the water pump, I mounted the generator. I have a few extra bits from the TRF install kit (RFK638), so I need to study this a little more.

Let’s see if pictures can be posted right-side-up this time…

 

[Popeye]

Still upside down. Sorry!! (Silly iPhone)

 

[Popeye]

I spent this Saturday listening to the Triumph engineers in heaven (h3ll??) laughing at me: I installed the wipers. This task ideally requires four hands, each the size of a toddler with the strength of the hulk. …ok, it was not that bad, but challenging plus a few choice words, all the while trying hard not to scratch the new paint.

The wiper motor was disassembled, cleaned, and new brushes from Moss were installed, following this post by Alan John Turner: > TR4/4A - Rebuildiing a wiper motor < (thank you!! I gave you a thumbs up eight years after posting)

I don’t have any photos of the install (that would have required a fifth hand, plus editing to remove foul language). But happy to answer questions.

I bought 1/8” ID tubing for the wiper fluid from the hardware store (fuel tubing). I would have preferred silicone tubing for flexibility and heat / fluid resistance, but probably am overthinking this. I have not yet installed but will shortly.

I will seal the wiper box cover plates with butyl tape. (After routing wiper tubing.)

Finally, I installed the cowl vent. I trimmed the new seal, such that the top of the seal is flat - essentially changing the seal cross section from “H” to an upside down “U”. This allows the cowl to close pretty near to flat. I’ll give it a few months to compress and may trim a little more in the future. (It is difficult to cut the rubber neatly. I used an exacto knife with a fresh blade, however it might be better to trim it on while installed on the car instead of on the workbench.)

 

[Popeye]

I installed the various “heavy duty” electric cables. The ones that run from the firewall to the negative battery post, from the positive post to the solenoid, from the solenoid to the starter, and the engine grounding strap at the front of the engine (from timing chain cover to a hole adjacent the front cross-tube. Note: attached photo shows this connected to cross tube. I corrected this, but did not take a picture). I scraped away paint (and cried a little) when making these connections, to ensure good electrical contact.

I also installed a ground strap from the steering rack filler port (brass plug) to one of the rack mounting bolt on the bottom of the frame.

I plan to add an additional strap from a gearbox mounting bolt to the firewall, where the battery currently is connected. (The car previously had the battery grounded to the transmission.). This seems like an easy way to get a second ground to the engine.

One of the photos also shows the untrimmed cowl seal. I removed the upper half of the seal.

Feedback and criticism appreciated!

Next: more wiring, installing the top dash pad, and instrument panel.

And apologies for the upside-down photos. I must be in Australia…

 

[Popeye]

I spent this Saturday listening to the Triumph engineers in heaven (h3ll??) laughing at me: I installed the wipers.

And after all this: looks like I have a single speed motor from a TR4, not the correct two speed motor… grumble.

Anyone have a line on a two speed? (I posted in the classifieds.). I don’t mind fixing / cleaning one in not perfect shape.

Alternately I think adding a resistor an make my motor two speed, plus appropriate wiring… I may need to do some research, but hoping to find the correct option.

 

[KVH]

Mike, looking at pics 3 and 4 of 19, of your August 3 post (I think) showing your engine cradle of wood, is there a reason there’s no rear 2X4 brace? Would that interfere with the transmission?

 

[Popeye]

Mike, looking at pics 3 and 4 of 19, of your August 3 post (I think) showing your engine cradle of wood, is there a reason there’s no rear 2X4 brace? Would that interfere with the transmission?

Exactly. My first iteration included four walls, then I realized it would be impossible to mount the transmission! I also needed additional height to clear the oil pan. The load from the engine is vertical, so there’s very little left right force – except when rolling the engine . The top 2x4s being flat instead of vertical seemed to provide sufficient stiffness, and again I was careful while moving, but never nervous.

 

[DrEntropy]

Magnificent work, Mike. You're doing the job to a level too many so-called "restoration" shops can't match.

 

[Popeye]

More work:

Heater installed, also coolant hoses and radiator. I used the original heater valve, even though several folks suggest a modern alternate from the local FLAPS.

Dash pad installed, after test fitting the dashboard. I glued the ends of the pad, as well as the front edge, with Weldwood landau adhesive. Good stuff, if expensive! Granger carries it, so I was able to avoid hazmat shipping costs.

I located a proper two speed wiper motor, yay!! Installed.

And I fabricated a small bracket to hold the hood release cable in the passenger footwell. (I did not get the original with the car.)

 

[Popeye]

Clutch hydraulics (see separate post on actuator rod) complete, same for brake hydraulics. I have a Gunson Eezibleed arriving next week - I look forward to bleeding!

OD electrics installed. I only have OD on gear 3 and 4, so I simple tied off the second pair of connectors. I did not connect the reverse lamp switch - perhaps I should have, even if only to not deal with the transmission tunnel in the future…

And I wrestled the single piece tunnel into place. What a nightmare… I still spent a day and a half inventing creative ways to swear. OK, I exaggerate a little. But it wasn’t fun! In two places I ended up running bolts from below to get the cover on, and will cut off the excess with a dremel. In one or two other locations I used longer bolts to facilitate alignment. I made access holes for the fill plug and solenoid using extra round plugs that I happened to have - c. 3” diameter. I also cut a square access hole for the Speedo cable. The cover did not have clearance for the right angle drive. I tried using heat to reshape the cover, but it did not work very well. I will build (mold) a fiberglass cover.

In hindsight, mounting the cover is probably easiest when the body is separate from the chassis. Next time around!