TR6 TR6 Sway Bars?

I just finished rebuilding my tr6 suspension a couple of weeks ago. I put in new poly bushings as well as ball joints, shocks, 205 series tires etc… At this time I retained the stock springs as they had good free length and whatnot. Now that I am driving it around, I wish that it had less body roll on corners. It seems that the best way to counter this would be a swaybar improvement. My question basically surrounds this. Can I fit a rear bar without increasing the rate on the stock front? If so, which one? It probably makes sense to upgrade both, but I am budget minded after spending a bit more on my rebuild than I originally planned. Anyway, does anyone have any experience in this area? Thanks for your time.

The easiest/cheapest soltion would be to use a larger diameter front bar to cure body roll.
Rear bars are also available, custom made from a company called "Saner Performance Fabrication" in Florida, 772-873-0238.
Ted Schumacher, TSI Automotive also has bars, and his website has an explanation of stiffness vs diameter.

Keep in mind a bigger front bar will increase the TR6's understeer, which is bad enough already in my opinion, while a rear bar will reduce it. Stock rear springs are too soft, again in my opinion, and should be upgraded to reduce squat under acceleration.

Hope this helps- Simon (TR4a with "fast road" springs all round, Spax gas shocks and a TR6 front bar.)

www.goodparts.com

also sells TR6 SwayBars for the TR6 as well as aluminum steering rack and swaybar mounting blocks. Pretty much minimizes any deflection in those areas.

www.hottr6.com has an interesting qrite up about rear suspension setups and the owner of said TR6 is investing a lot of cash to turn his car into a BMW killer. He also is fairly open on his experiences and I'm sure would be more than happy to answer your questions.

Now... general rule of thumb is that adding a rear swaybar without upgrading the front is failry risky. The TR6 can easily go from moderate understeer to wild overster with little modification.

If you are budget minded then I'd recommend just saving up for a bit or check other weak links in your suspension as well. My local mechanic can upgrade the lever arm shocks as well. It simply involves using a slightly higher viscosity oil and a different valving. His experience is very favorable and he recommends this prior to slapping on a sway bar or going tube shocks. Also, the only major component to purchase is the new valve and the replacement oil. His job is around $50 for both, including labor.

Just food for thought.