Wibbly wobbly wheels oh my

[bthompson]

Well, it had to happen sooner or later. My steering wheel started shaking and quaking suddenly at 30 mph, and goes away at 40. "Alignment trouble," says I, and ran a tape measure from tread to tread across the front and back sides of the front tires for a quick toe check. :shocked: 3/8" toe <span style="font-style: italic">out?</span> Not a good sign. Out comes the jack, up goes the wheel, and I get a firm grip at 12 and 6. Ooh...it's moving. 3 and 9? Same. A queasy feeling in the pit of my stomach; and not knowing what else to do, I try 10 and 4, and 1 and 7. Each time, a good eighth of an inch of travel. Wheel bearings. Peeking behind the wheel, nothing's wobbling in the kingpin or steering linkage, or bushings. Good sign there.

So here's where I appeal to those who have gone before. Can you point me to a website or publication that can step me through this uncharted territory? I've done many things with a car in my life...never done suspension work.

Is it standard practice to break the wishbone down and replace all the bushings when you do the bearings? Or should I just count my blessings that I don't see anything moving back there and stick to the bearings themselves?

 

[JPSmit]

Bill, bearings are not difficult - you'll see the procedure in the Moss diagram that it really is taking the cap off the hub - undoing the castelated nut and pulling the bearings. - there are two - inner and outer. It is much easier to do off the car and I would replace the bushings if everything is off. I might check the tie rod ends also.

 

[GrahamP]

Once you start stripping the suspension to change bushes you could be into a whole new ball game! Bearings are easy, bushes, not.
The standard bearings have one gotcha, you have to get them facing the correct way for thrust loading. Took me ages to be sure I had them around the right way, evenually I found this drawing on another BB which made it a piece of cake.

I can't remember the contributor,I know he was an American and I blessed him, as verbal descriptions don't really make it terribly clear. So hopefully he won't mind me plagarising his drawing.

Graham

 

[JPSmit]

There is a slot on the inside of the hub (#25) that allows you to drive out the old bearings from the other end. then to seat the new bearings you need grease and a big socket to use as a drift. Just looking at the Moss Diagram again and I understand that you might not want to get into removing the kingpin. The Fulcrum pin (#12) is the piece most likely to mess you up. To remove the hub, make a plate that will fit from one wheel stud diagonally across the stub axle. tighten the wheel nuts on the plate and it will force the hub off the axle. (I hope you can visualize this) I actually used a wrench with the box end over one stud and a large washer to hold the other end close to the stud.

when you reassemble don't forget to put the spacer (#30) back in - don't ask me how I know.

I still think you should at least check your bushings and tie rod ends. #7 is an easy swap and while #11 is potentially a little harder, if you are careful you will do no damage and potentially improve the ride dramatically. You should be able to get an idea even by looking as the likely have started to perish if they are original.

 

[drooartz]

Graham, thanks for posting that drawing you found. I've got to tackle the bearings soon myself, and the picture definitely makes things clear.

 

[bthompson]

Thanks for the input...it sounds like it may not be too bad. (Thick face of the inner race away from the spacer: got it!) JP, I can't quite picture your hub puller exactly, but I get the idea of it. I don't have a garage, or a workbench, or power tools, so I'll have to do it old-school: hand tools, a gravel driveway, and a shade tree. :wink:

While I'm under there, it really doesn't make sense to not do the bushings--but I'm not even going to attempt the fulcrum pin and kingpin!

And since I have to drop the spring, I may as well put in that lowering kit I need.

And while the trunion's apart, I may as well pull the dampener and flush it out.

And while the wishbone's off, it wouldn't hurt to put on new tie rod ends...

These little projects get big fast, don't they?

ANYWAY...
What do you guys think of poly bushings vs. rubber? Any real-world (i.e. non-racing) difference?
The later steering rack has a little plug instead of a zerk. Is there any reason (or WAY) to lube it?

thanks for all your help, by the way. If I come across anything out of the ordinary, I'll take some pics. Of course, it'll have to warm up a little first.

 

[jlaird]

Rubber works well for street use.

 

[JPSmit]

JP, I can't quite picture your hub puller exactly, but I get the idea of it.

story of my life basically (as I'm sure you've already noted) you will need to separate the hub from the stub axle. I did it by using a wrench, others have made plates, some have used reversed brake hubs. anything that pulls the the hub out by pushing the stub axle in. so, anything that you can lay across two diagonal studs and tighten. the tightening will pull the hub off the stub axle.

that makes even less sense doesn't it?

(I can post pics of you want)

 

[bthompson]

Wobbly wheel update!

Since the weather was so nice today I decided to take the plunge. Not knowing what I'd get into, I just did the bearings. The bushings don't look bad enough to be critical yet, and if I got in a jam I sure didn't want to lose my "weather window", and have Nigel up in the air for weeks while it's too cold to work.

With all the unknown variables with roller bearings, shims, spacer-or-not, proper disk clearance, and all that, I just went with stock ball bearings. My reasoning was, once I see how things are "supposed" to work and line up, I'll have a better handle on upgrading next time.

Turns out I didn't even need a hub puller; they came right out with hardly any effort at all. Also noticed the hub nuts weren't very tight.

So here's what this bearing novice learned:

1. If you work alone, forget about taking bearing pics as you go, at least if you value your camera at all. Sloppy greasy work, this is!

2. Packing ball bearings are a darn sight easier than packing rollers! More lil' crannies for the grease to get in. (see #1)

3. The whole thrust-face issue seems a whole lot more intuitive when yer actually looking at the thing.

4. I finally understand "spacer piece" logic! The spacer <span style="font-style: italic">doesn't </span>turn. It's a tight fit over the spindle clamped between the inner bearing races, also which don't turn. So the spindle effectively gets beefed up.

5. Even though I bought a torque wrench for the preload on the nuts, I really didn't need it. 46 ft-lbs just feels "right." Any less, and it feels loose; any more, and it feels like you're forcing it.

6. LBC's are magical contraptions. Just about anything that needs to be done is honest, straightforward, rewarding, and leaves you feeling competent, and like you have spent time doing something worthwhile. :thumbsup: Working on my Alfas always left me feeling insecure and intrusive, like I was poking around where professionals should rightly be. (SPICA, anyone? )

Hopefully, this fixed the alignment problem and shimmy. I'll know for sure later.

 

[jlaird]

We waiting.

 

[bthompson]

Shimmy gone! I took 'er for a spin around town, and no more shuddering steering wheel. It feels tighter and smoother overall, too--but a large part of that might be psychological. :wink: I haven't checked the alignment yet, it's probably not spot-on, but much better than it was. Hooray!

 

[jlaird]

Good for you, nice to fix something that really needs it.