TR6 TR6 alternator

[TexasKnucklehead]

Thinking I may someday get the A/C working, and already having an electric fan, I decided to get something a little beefier to replace my failing Lucas alternator. Tx Alternator Starter send me a unit they claim is actually made by Lucas for a tractor application. I did have to install a slightly longer belt, but the hook-up is the same, plus there is an extra hot lug where I wired in my cooling fan (taking the load off the original wiring). It's a 70amp unit with internal regulator.

When I turned on the headlights, I was amazed. They are just as bright at idle as when the engine is revving. The blinkers flash at the same speed all the time. The voltmeter only moves when the engine is started. I trust it, and it looks OK too.

Also, I installed an electronic ignition a while back and finally got around to putting a timing light on it. It was off about 18 degrees! What a difference. Rebuilt the brake MS, and put in silicon fluid so now I'm ready for summer.

 

[Brosky]

Congratulations! All great work.

That looks like the alternator that I researched after I installed my Bosch Ford unit last fall.

If you don't mind my asking, where can you buy them, what is the part number, amperage and price?

 

[BobbyD]

Texas... Did it bolt up to the stock TR6 bracket and did you have to change out the pulley to match the stock TR6 pulleys? Besides the info Paul asked for, please share any mods you had to do to get it to fit. It sounds like a perfect drop in.

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

It bolted up with the existing pulleys, mounts, brackets etc -the only change was the longer belt. The belt change is required because the mounting "triangle" of the replacement alternator is slightly different from the original. The plug for the wiring is exact, but also includes a little wire loop that snaps over the plug to keep it from rattling loose. I'll send the specific part numbers etc tonight after I'm home.

It is rated at 70amps (about twice the original) and I had it shipped to my house complete for $210. I think it's a 'better than' drop-in replacement. My only concern now is durability, and it appears very solid -the regulator has a monster heat-sink, etc.

 

[Brosky]

TK,

Do you have a link for this company?

 

[Opa]

Paul, looks like the one we discussed back in Feb under your posting Fiesta Bosch bolt on TR6 Alternator. available at Elreg in Buffalo. NY

 

[kodanja]

Paul I just PM'ed you bout this subject

Bill

 

[poolboy]

If it's for a tractor or heavy equipment, it should be rugged indeed.
As for the electonic breakerless ignition, if it is a Pertronix, I'm not surprised. I had to reorient my dizzy in the advance direction to get back to the correct timing.
Looking at it, I believe it is simply that the pick-up module ends up a little farther CCW in relation to the lobes on the dizzy shaft than the breaker points.
In other words, it is the mounting location that caused this and not how the Pertronix unit actually functions.

 

[TR3driver]

In other words, it is the mounting location that caused this and not how the Pertronix unit actually functions.

I've wondered about that. One way to find out is to check the timing at higher rpm before/after installing the unit (and after setting timing at idle). If there is a fixed time delay inside the box, it will show up as retarded timing at higher rpm.

 

[poolboy]

I'm not sure I follow you on that,Randall, although you're probably right.
With points, the fiber "thingie" hits the high spot on the lobe, but the actual points are a bit counterclockwise of that particular lobe.
Hard to explain, but say the lobe is at 7 o'clock when the points open, the pick up module of the Pertronix may only be at 6:30 at initial installation.

 

[RonMacPherson]

What you did is upgrade the style of the alternator, or I should say design. This is a "delta" design internal circuitry. Made especially for ambulances, tractors, and other vehicles that need plenty of electrical power at low engine speeds. So it comes up to full capability at lower than previous designed alternators.

Usually a lot more reliable also. But if it does go haywire, expect to pay for the piecs..

 

[jackag91]

hmmm, my alternator is cracked at the mounting tabs. So this might go on the list.

 

[TR674]

Knucklehead
I would be very interested in the details, thanks.
Regards
Craig

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

I agree, -I think the pick-up is not in the same relative place as the points. Several people responded when I first mentioned that I installed it and did not set the timing as the instructions indicated. Although the engine started OK, and ran, it did not perform as expected, or as well as it did prior to the install. (And it ran hot.) After setting the timing with a light, all is back to normal -except I never have to mess with points again.

The alternator is not the FORD FIESTA one. I went to ORiely and we looked up some different models, but they weren't able to get the ones that looked like they'd work -except for one that required an external regulator. I tried www.pprok, but they only deal with specific retailers. They gave me the name of a alt/starter shop in Austin, Tx. So I called and told them my situation, and it took Steve a day but he came up with this replacement unit. Drop me a PM if want Steve's number.

The tag on the alternator says the following:
70Amps 12Volts, Leece Neville, Part Number 66021636C, 200802, made in china, Prestonlite Electric Inc, Florence Ky, 41042

I think the Fiesta one would be fine, but I couldn't find one. This one is probably over-kill, but I needed a functional unit, and I am impressed with it. Even my dash lights are bright enough that I can read them. -And the car handles so much better that my sex life is bound to improve. -Wait... scratch that last bit, I was getting carried away.

 

[angelfj1]

Tex: sorry, but I'm confused. did you say that this was a Lucas unit? maybe I misunderstood, and this company in Ky builds this for Lucas. BTW, I have seen similar units on engine-generator sets.

 

[angelfj1]

Look what I found.
Aren't the "internets" great.
Enjoy!

Main site:

https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/alt_search.php

Application data:

https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/s...resh=1209646307

Cross reference including Lucas and Massey Ferguson units:

https://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/xref_per_part.php?pei_part_ref=66021636

 

[bash]

I hope you don't mind me taking this a bit off topic, but I see you hooked up your electric fan directly to the alternator. I am in the process of working out how to wire my fan at the moment, and the wires that came with the kit are not long enough to reach either of my intended hook ups - I was going to use the spare terminal on the battery cable or the connection at the starter motor. I don't much like the idea of just using a long thick wire and splicing into the supplied wiring kit, (though I am not really sure why - I guess it isn't a problem really), but if I can hook into the alternator then that would be a good thing. Can anyone tell me if this would result in 14.6 V instead of the steady 12V the fan calls for? Wouldn't I get the same voltage at the battery cable anyway? I have Dan Masters book and it seem to me that he says that when the alternator is spinning the voltage is 14.6V. I could be mistaken, of course - happens a lot!

Sorry to thread hijack, and thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers
Alistair

 

[TR3driver]

Don't worry, Alistair, tapping the fan into the alternator output works just fine. On my TR3A, I created a new tie point in the alternator output lead just for connecting things like the radiator fan, headlight relay, stereo, etc.

Next time, I'll use one of these :
https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml

"12v" is a 'nominal' value, meaning the actual voltage varies quite a bit depending on conditions at the moment. Your fan will work just fine (better in fact) on the 14.0-14.6 volts that the alternator puts out (when the battery is fully charged and the alternator is carrying the entire load). The voltage at the battery cable will be very nearly the same.