TR4/4A TR4 wood dash

[Rut]

I have a stack of TR4a and TR6 wood dash’s and since I’ve been on a furniture refinishing rampage I decided to start on one. Much to my surprise the one I selected is a TR4 dash which is much thinner and it has a one piece face unlike the TR4a and TR6 which are bookended. This is an original dash with the heavy coating of “I can’t remove it” (which has been removed), number stamp, dark brown paint, etc. Do y’all run into these one piece dash faces often?
Rut
for some reason the picture will not upload.

 

[TomMull]

My Herald has a one piece mahogany (or what appears to be mahogany) veneer. It's fairly straight grained. Usually the only ones that were bookmarked are the more heavily figured veneers. There is little reason to bookmark the straighter veneers.

I used heat to remove the walnut burl veneer on my Lotus.

Tom

 

[charleyf]

I have a TR4 CT20000 with an original wood dash. It is a single piece of wood. Likely mahogany.

 

[Rut]

I’ve got a lot of veneer left from other projects and I’ll finish 4 dashes, 2 in straight grain and 2 in burl walnut. What I’ll do with them is anybody’s guess.
Rut

Would only load 1 picture this time.

 

[TomMull]

The piece in the picture that came through is not a burl but a highly figured veneer of what appears to be black walnut. It's a lovely piece and will make an interesting dash. It is not a burl though. You still might want to bookmark the piece to keep the grain symmetrical on both sides. Not hard to do but it does complicate things a bit. The ripples in the grain are a bit of a challenge when you do your veneering. If you run your hand along the surface you can feel the ripples. Humidity changes make it worse. The water in most glues also raise the grain. (hide glue does not but that's another story).
Burl wood is quite different. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burl
It does not come in long pieces and pieces much over about three feet become very expensive. Symmetry and expense both play a part in bookmarking burl veneers.
Feel free to check out my post on the Lotus veneer in the Lotus forum.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?119335-replacing-walnut-veneeron-the-dash
Keep us posted on your work too.

Tom

 

[Rut]

Tom,
The burl picture did not come thru, but you can see part of the burl in the upper right of the picture that did post.
Rut

 

[TomMull]

Tom,
The burl picture did not come thru, but you can see part of the burl in the upper right of the picture that did post.
Rut

Yes, quite clearly seen in this picture. Do you have bookmark cuts (2 pieces) of this veneer or will you do it in one piece?
Tom

 

[Rut]

Tom,
I have 6 pieces that could cover 3 dashes if not more. I’m leaning toward using the figured walnut for a TR6 dash and saving the burl for another project/dash.
Rut

 

[RJCOX]

Rut,
How does the wood veneer/plywood dash attach?

Mine is desperately in need of help.

She just arrived today

 

[Rut]

RJCOX,
Wow, that TR looks like something I would drag home! Steering wheel looks like a factory upgrade and they are pretty rare as I understand it.
The dash unscrews from the metal dash support, but you need to pull the gauges first. The walnut has delaminated and I hope the base plywood is ok. If it’s started to come apart you will need to repair it first, prep the plywood and paint the backside. A dark brown paint is used along the edges of the vents and glove box door and opening and I find it easier to paint those before I finish the dash. If the plywood is really shot, pm me to discuss options. The rest of your car needs a lot of help with rust removal and new metal welded in. Good luck on your project!
Rut

 

[RJCOX]

Yeah, been there on rust repair. My 3 had (and my dad's 3) had some issues with rust. Did floors and inner and outer sills on mine and the front cowls on both as well.

I've done my share of woodworking but never veneer. I read through a bunch of your posts but didn't see how to remove the dash/wood, but your methods are inspiring. I'm actually excited to get to it.

Sadly, I think the plywood may be damaged beyond repair. I'm hoping that I can get a good pattern at least. I'll most likely bug you for guidance on best materials to replace it.

Thanks for reaching out!

Ron

 

[TomMull]

Tom,
I have 6 pieces that could cover 3 dashes if not more. I’m leaning toward using the figured walnut for a TR6 dash and saving the burl for another project/dash.
Rut

The Lotus dash is a bit odd requiring a piece 18 x 44 inches, which is why a did bookmark. Walnut burl in that size is available but $150 or more.

RJCOX, A new dash is easy to make if you have enough of the old one for a pattern. Use a trim router with a 1/4 inch flush bit. A plunge bit makes it even fasted. Mine dash was 7 ply aircraft spruce, not available today as far as I know so I went to some pains to stay with the original.

They are usually held in by a few bolts.

Tom

 

[RJCOX]

I hope to have enough material to get the pattern.

If I'm really lucky, a re-veneer.

Assuming its just the veneer, what kind of surface prep can I look forward to or what should I avoid doing (i wont be using a palm sander). Any paints or sealers that I should use on the gluing surface?

 

[TomMull]

I hope to have enough material to get the pattern.

If I'm really lucky, a re-veneer.

Assuming its just the veneer, what kind of surface prep can I look forward to or what should I avoid doing (i wont be using a palm sander). Any paints or sealers that I should use on the gluing surface?

Imperfections in the plywood dash can show through the veneer and little voids w may cause issues later. After taking off the original veneer with a sharp scraper and a heat gun, used carefully, I simply hand sanded the plywood with a 1 foot block and 220 sandpaper. My dash didn't need much but I filled the few little voids it had with bondo. The plies on mine were super thin so I was not very aggressive with the sanding. Essentially prep as though you'd be painting it.
The glue I used, (Titebond ironed on) sticks very well to bare wood, no primer of any kind necessary.
Tom

 

[Rut]

I hope to have enough material to get the pattern.

If I'm really lucky, a re-veneer.

Assuming its just the veneer, what kind of surface prep can I look forward to or what should I avoid doing (i wont be using a palm sander). Any paints or sealers that I should use on the gluing surface?

Tom offered very good advice and I’ll throw in some more. Hobby shops have basswood in different thicknesses, so you can rebuild your plywood and make sure all of the laminations are still stuck together. I like to use a veneer glue that’s tinted to the finished product so you won’t have imperfections show thru from a ‘yellow glue’ when staining or finishing. I think a glue roller is essential for a smooth finish along with a veneer softener, especially if you decide to go with a burl which is notoriously brittle and lumpy.
Im currently working on several dashes, but got sidetracked by my sons International Scout which needs everything. If your dash ends up being trash, just let me know and I can send you one to swap out. It’s going to be awhile before you reach that stage, so we have plenty of time...just let me know how light/dark and gloss/satin you want the finish to be. I’ve gotten into wood dye vs stain as of late and I’m going nuts with the stuff as I learn more about it.
Rut

 

[Rod-H]

+1 on wood dye, I've been using it since I started making guitars 25 about years ago.

From the stewmac webpage (these are actually dyes not stains): https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...nishing-supplies/colortone-liquid-stains.html

I've had good experiences vacuum bagging for veneering. You don't need a bunch of fancy equipment to do it, A shop vac, some stretchy plastic, some tape, and some dark beer.

Rod

 

[Popeye]

A few thoughts:
1. Veneer and finish on both sides, otherwise the wood may warp. Obviously surface finish is not critical on the backside, but the veneer should be sealed with a few coats of varnish.
2. Marine grade plywood is more expensive, but for a reasonably small piece such as a dashboard the delta is not terrible. It has fewer voids than "normal" plywood, and better moisture resistance in the adhesive.

 

[TomMull]

+1 on wood dye, I've been using it since I started making guitars 25 about years ago.

From the stewmac webpage (these are actually dyes not stains): https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...nishing-supplies/colortone-liquid-stains.html

I've had good experiences vacuum bagging for veneering. You don't need a bunch of fancy equipment to do it, A shop vac, some stretchy plastic, some tape, and some dark beer.

Rod

Would Newcastle Brown ale be dark enough?
Tom

 

[RJCOX]

I'm a Guinness fan myself, but reserve it for the end of the day when I'm bragging about my car with the mates, or after playing a set.

Rut, I'll let you know how I fare with the dash removal and what condition the plywood is in.

Tom and Mike, great info. I've got the tools and supplies (well not the veneer) just need to develop the skills a bit. I've got some StewMac dyes already for a mandolin that I am finishing. Single color dash should be easy (to color).

Ron

 

[RJCOX]

Well, it looks like an aftermarket dash added on top of the original white dash, but I'm not sure. There's about 8 screws oe more holding it on.





Think I'll take the screws out and peelit back a bit (gently) and see what's back there.