TR6 TR-6 rear tube shock conversion question

[bigbadbluetr6]

I am wondering about the tube shock conversion for my tr6. There is the one that mounts just to the existing holes or the one that u drill holes in the body. Right now on TRF there is a $30 price difference. What r the plus and minus of each of these? My 6 is used as a secondary driver but sometimes my daily driver. I have no intention of getting rid of the car anytime soon so maybe longevity needs to play a roll in my decision. I appreciate everyones input. Thanks in advance.
Eric

 

[martx-5]

There is a third alternative...mounting the shock through the coil spring. Ratco has such a conversion.

 

[poolboy]

I think you'll find that in order to avoid frame damage you'll have to do one of two things. Get a bracket set that is beefy with additional support to take the stress or make support brackets if they are lacking in the conversion kit.
Ratco has the beefy version.
But consider that if using tube shocks requires reenforcment, it might not be such a good idea.
Triumph was well aware of tube shocks when they built the car, but looks like they felt that the geometry of the movement of the trailing arms was better suited for the multi-jointed lever shock/strut combination.

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

If I would to the ratco way with a shock in coil then do I need to add the sway bar that goes from where the old lever shocks mount?

 

[boeingpilot]

I did the Moss Motors conversion on my TR4A and it's worked very well. I was a little uneasy about drilling through the body, but everything fits nice and tight.

 

[LBCs_since_1988]

No disrespect intended but WHY change from lever shocks for a daily driver?

There are rebuild services everywhere, no mods are needed to replace, they're simple to replace, not terribly expensive considering they often last for THREE decades (the same can't be said for tube shocks) and they're original...just sayin'.

 

[DNK]

I would not do it.
MHO.
To many people with frame damage

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

The reason to consider the change is because I had a lever shock break while out on a trip. I have since fixed the broken piece. The link that connects to the lower end. My car has considerable rear sag. Does that mean I need to change the springs? Changing the springs would be the cheapest alternative here. I just have thought people have gotten away from the lever shocks and went to something more current. If I think about it my 6 rides better then the 2 Miatas I've owned.

 

[poolboy]

Yes, springs will probably correct the sag. Shocks are not really support for your suspension; they are there to dampen the bounce from the springs. Get some 470 # springs and good lever shocks.
https://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=15

 

[Gliderman8]

No disrespect intended but WHY change from lever shocks for a daily driver?

There are rebuild services everywhere, no mods are needed to replace, they're simple to replace, not terribly expensive considering they often last for THREE decades (the same can't be said for tube shocks) and they're original...just sayin'.

 

[Brosky]

I agree too. I had my lever shocks rebuilt five years ago and they are just fine for normal driving. And they will probably last well beyond my years.

 

[Got_All_4]

I wouldn't do it ether. I got caught up in the tube shock idea a few years ago when I was finishing my TR250. I modified and upgraded may things on my car. However when the testimonials were coming in with many pictures of frame damage caused by the leverage created from the height of the shock tower moving from side to side. I decided that's not for me so I'll stick to OEM equipment. What is happening is from the movement fatiguing the metal in the frames where the lever shock cross member piece is welded to the frame and are literally braking off. .

If you think you need to chance the original design then do the Ratco conversion. Or the one from Moss that boeingpilot was referring to is the second best mouse trap where as the stress from the lever shock is transmitted into the frame and the body and there is no side to side movement.

Get Goog Parts springs. There the best!!

 

[BobbyD]

This is a regular topic in 6-Pack and I usually sit back with my mouth shut until I can't take it anymore. With the exception of TR6Bill's famous cracked bracket picture, everything else I've read is pretty much here-say. As you'll see in my conversion pictures and write up, neither the "drill through the body conversion (11 years on car) or the "re-use old brackets conversion (2 years on car now) have caused any damage. So here's a "cut-n-paste" from my 6-Pack post.

<span style="font-style: italic">This one gets beaten to death every time the subject comes up. I have the Blind Moose conversion along with the brackets to support the conversion. Here's my feelings, again, on the matter. Everyone's car is in different shape with regard to frame condition. We've seen guys with great looking frames only to discover that under the Tee Shirt is a rust bucket. Same for TA mounting points and diff mounting points. Paint over bad repair work can cover a multitude of sins. Before doing ANY mod that attaches to the frame, you need to do a thorough inspection and then make your decision.

The Blind Moose conversion was designed by Herman van Den Akker (of 5 speed conversion fame) who used it for a long time with no problems. His auto-cross friends quickly grabbed the conversion and promptly broke the old shock mount! Herman then designed the added bracket which the auto-x guys have been using ever since with no problems.

I'm not smart enough to know if tube shocks are better then the old lever shocks but I am smart enough to know that nothing should be attached to our 40 year old frames without very careful inspection be it: tube shocks, GP adjustable TA brackets, a Nissan diff or even new diff poly or nylatron bushings.</span>

 

[HerronScott]

Bob,

Great first-hand information oh both conversions and of course write-up on your website of the Blind Moose installation and bracing. How many miles did (have) you put on both in those time frames?

Scott

 

[DougF]

I made the switch several years ago to the frame mount conversion. Two years ago I was dealing with cracked frame issues. My TR6 came from AZ, spending it's entire time in the SW, resulting in a zero rust frame. I have had to plate and gusset it to correct the problem.
Mine cracked along the welds on both sides. It was a lot of work fixing and made a mess of a perfectly good frame.

 

[TR6BILL]

And the famous fix. Ratco's heavy duty rear cross member, Ratco's frame boxing kit, and TR6BILL's famous rear brace (copied from BobbyD).

 

[poolboy]

That's a lot of rigging though just to have a tube shock, right ?

 

[TR6BILL]

That's a lot of rigging though just to have a tube shock, right ?

Twas a labour of love... :hammer:

 

[DNK]

Bobby, Have a friend who is also a pack member who last spring broke his.

I asked him to post about it but he thought enough had been said. And has not been a pack appreciator for a while.

 

[John_Mc]

That's a lot of rigging though just to have a tube shock, right ?

Twas a labour of love... :hammer:

Not to change the subject, but Bill, what are you driving these days?