Hi Dieter ("inmates" - good one :wink: )
I've never seen a torque setting for that nut. I've always figured:
- the hub is an interference (press) fit--would almost hold itself without a nut
- since the nut is locked with a tab washer, it isn't going to turn so even if the hub tried to come off it would only increase the tension--hence torque--on the nut
- the nuts are opposite "handed"--like knockoffs--so, in theory, if they do turn in the direction of wheel rotation they tighten (this may not apply to early cars)
- even with the "special" socket, it's difficult to get a humongous amount of torque on the nut anyway (judging from what I've seen, most people tighten these with channel-lock pliers). I think I was able to get about 100+ ft-lbs using a proper socket.
- I don't think it's possible to over tighten, unless you manage to strip the threads--hopefully, on the nut--or round off the corners of the nut
I think you should just make sure the hub is pressed onto the axle housing until it's stopped at the end of the (smaller diameter) machined surface. Then, torque as best you can--using the correct socket if available--and secure it with the tab/locking washer.
The Healey rear-end is known as a "three-quarter floating," which I believe means that it's all but totally secured without depending on the axle. I've never heard of a Healey rear wheel coming off (doesn't mean it's never happened, of course).
Cheers,
Bob