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I run my modern autos with sythetic oils. Does anyone know a reason why I should or should not run it in my TR4A and TR6?
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Hi,
This is a hot topic, with strong opinions both ways!
My 2 cents worth...
Generally speaking, I'd not use synthetics in old TRs, especially if the engine and drive train have some mileage on them.
I have several issues with modern synthetics in old motors:
First, many (most?) synthetics are "extended mileage" rated, which often means they are heavily loaded up with detergents. Those can "de-coke" the engine, and actually cause loss of compression and more blow-by around the rings. These old engines are designed to run best with a bit of coking. Even if you choose to use dino oil instead of synth, some of these are also are also "extended mileage" type and loaded up with a lot of detergents that can do more harm than good, so watch out.
A lower detergent synth might be okay. But, as others noted, synth oils are slicker and tend to cause external leaks. They also do the same inside the engine, tending to get past rings that have even modest wear, and down valve guides, into the cylinders. So you might see some oil burning after switching to synth, where the car was well-behaved running on dino oil.
With a newly rebuilt engine, synthetics are *definitely* wrong. Too slippery, they will almost certainly prevent the rings from bedding in on the cyl. walls, leading to glazing and an engine that will never reach full potential, unless it's rebuilt... again. Most say a *minimum* of 6000-9000 miles should be put on a rebuild, before switching to synth oils, to give all the engine internals a proper opportunity to bed in, seal and learn to play together well.
There have been a lot of reports of problems using synth oil in TR gearboxes, too. All I've heard have said that the box will very likely start popping out of gear on deceleration. Promptly switched back to dino oils, the gearbox generally will stop doing this and no lasting harm is done. Synthetic seems to be just too slippery here, too.
Also watch out for GL5 spec oils in the gearbox and tranny. Most have sulpher-based modifiers that will attack and eventually damage brass or bronze parts in the gearbox and diff. Use GL4, although it's getting harder to find. You might have to settle for an 85w95, instead of a straight 90w. 20w50 motor oil is about the same viscosity.
If motor oil is used in either place, it should be "racing oil" with no detergents, not just regular motor oil.
If your car has an overdrive, an A-Type especially, the gearbox oil needs a little more careful thought. Many now successfully use 20w50 "racing oil" in their non-OD 4-speed gearboxes. John Esposite at Quantum Mechanics, who has seen more than his share of gearbox and overdrive rebuilds, has done some testing and reported the results on his website. He seems to prefer straight 40w non-detergent (racing) oil, or even 30w if an OD is freshly rebuilt. The A-Type operates at much higher hydraulic pressures than the J-Type, so this is especially true for the earlier OD. He doesn't get into comparing synthetic with dino oil, last time I looked. However, since these ODs use an oil-bathed clutch, I'd personally avoid synth with it's extra slipperiness.
There are some specially formulated synthetic oils out there that might not have the problems mentioned above. Red Line is an example, with a wide line of very highly developed oils, some with reduced slipperiness to better work in gearboxes, etc. So, my only remaining beef is that synth can cost twice as much or more. I'd rather change the oil twice as often.
Heck, my TR4 made 120,000 miles (est., the odometer died at 98K) on dino oil with just a re-ring and bearing replacement at about 80K. I figure a the current rebuild, which will be kept lubed with decent quality dino oil, will likely last the rest of my life.
Note: I *do* use semi-synthetic blended oils in modern cars. I see some improved gas mileage an believe the viscosity holds up better between oil changes.
Mostly I use Valvoline oils, but I think there are many good brands out there. I avoid off-brand and recycled oils.