still no clutch : [

[zimmy]

i tried the tube trick and then bleed from both directions
and i still have little pressure on my pedal.....
should it be soft or should i feel good resistance?
if i push in the pedal and check the slave it appears to be out all the way....i understand how it works just dont know why it dont /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif ........zimmy

 

[jlaird]

So, will it run? If so, try it.

Maybe you just have a weak clutch. If the slave cyl is working it should be good. Hold the clutch down and see if it leaks off.

 

[zimmy]

my car runs fine but i cant put it in gear....could my clutch be stuck maybe....
i dont feel much pedal and it goes to the floor still..
the first foot of line from my master is a little smaller than the original, could this be a problem?
i have new master and slave........

 

[jlaird]

Does the rod on the clutch cyl go in and out and how much when you depress the clutch petal. If it is indeed going in and out then the clutch is stuck and must be broken loose.

Did this happen after the car had set for quite awile, months maybe?

 

[DrEntropy]

...the next few posts will be telling.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

 

[zimmy]

it goes out but im not sure how much it moves...approx 1/2 inch im guessing........
the slave has pressure when i push it in with my hand...
but i have hardly any resistance in my pedal..
should my pedal be stiff like a ford etc?
could it be my new master?
hasnt been driven in over a year id guess.....

 

[jlaird]

I would suggest that your clutch plate is stuck to your flywheel or pressure plate. It can be easy to break loose or hard. Basicly you run it with wide open spaces and hit brakes to break it loose. But try it with power off first, rock it with clutch in, rock it hard.

 

[Biff]

"hasnt been driven in over a year id guess....."
Agree, that the clutch/pressure plate are rusted together. Try the rocking in gear to see if it will break free, if not then it's road time. Wind it up in first, push the clutch pedal in and slam (as lock all 4 wheels up) on the brakes. It may take more than 1 try.

 

[zimmy]

but shouldnt my pedal have good resistance when i push it?
and how do i drive the car when i cant put it in gear(it grinds) besides i live in the hills....no parking lots,etc..

 

[jlaird]

You put it in gear then rock the car break it loose. Pdeal has no resistance as it is not pushing anything, the inards are stuck together, flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate, if plate is stuck no pressure on petal.

 

[zimmy]

i think that might just make sense jack..; )
ill go rock it.........

 

[zimmy]

pushed it in 4th with clutch pedal down.....no luck

 

[Trevor Jessie]

What type surface is your car sitting on? You could try the drop on concrete with tires spinning trick. Its scary, but I thought I'd put the idea out there just in case you get desparate.

 

[zimmy]

sounds fun but i dont have the proper jack...what about using stands and the brakes?
gonna try the startup method tomorrow......

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Worth a try... Just make sure it isn't pointed in a dangerous direction in case something goes wrong.

Safety Fast!

 

[jlaird]

Last resort is to pull the engine, sigh.

 

[AlanT]

The 1275 Spridget is the absolute worst for clutch hydralics bleeding. The following is the procedure for displacing the air. Jack up the front of the car. Grab a #3 flat screwdriver from the toolbox. While in the drivers seat lean over and remove the bleeder from the slave cylinder. After installing a latex or better glove on your right hand , place finger over the bleeder hole. Push clutch pedal to the floor. Take the screwdriver and force the pushrod back into the slave cylinder as far as it will go . While keeping your left foot to the floor and screwdriver tight , replace the bleeder and tighten. It will take a few moments for the master to pick up fluid. Do not let it get low or you will hear a very faint 'slurp' sound and you will be back to square one. If after a few evenly spaced pumps you do not get a firm pedal then repeat the process two more times. If the clutch pedal is still limp then suspect the master cylinder needs a rebuild. If the pedal is firm and you can feel the pressure plate going 'over center' and the clutch still does not release then the following is the procedure to free a stuck clutch disc. Start the car and let it run in neutral for a long time. You want to heat-soak the flywheel as much as possible. If it does not release then jack up the rear of the car by the center of the axle. With the engine off , put the gearbox in 3rd of 4th gear and start the car while holding the clutch pedal to the floor. Ease the engine RPM up and down. As a last resort you may want to step on the brake while the wheels are spinning . You do not want to put any more impulsive load than necessary on any Spridget driveline piece.

Alan T

 

[piman]

hello Zimmy,

I have to disagree with the view that if your clutch has stuck that you will have no pressure, in my experience you will as the cover and release side is not affected.
You don't need a lot of room to free a stuck clutch, but I would ensure that the mechanism is working or it will not free!
Under the car you should be able to assess if the mechanical part of the clutch is working by moving the input lever, i.e. the one the slave cylinder pushes against. Using a short tube over the lever you should feel resistance but be able to actuate the clutch. The 1\2" movement is about right, by the way.


Alec

 

[john_j]

[ QUOTE ]

I have to disagree with the view that if your clutch has stuck that you will have no pressure

[/ QUOTE ]

I have to agree with this disagreement!

When you press the pedal, the resistance you feel is from the springs or diaphram in the clutch cover plate, so when the friction plate is stuck, the springs are still there!

I have read somewhere that spraying the clutch with Acetone is good for releasing it, although I can't recall any details, so DYOR before trying it!

 

[Deleted member 3577]

I've had trouble priming those "can type" clutch master cylinders.........

My remedy was putting a clear line on the slave cylinder nipple and running it up and over, into the can.

Then I pump the pedal VIGOROUSLY (3 X/sec.) with my hand until I can feel fluid start to move. (then another 100 times after that to clear bubbles)

I don't know what keeps the fluid from filling the master cylinder space behind the piston when the can is full....
Surface tension???