I just finished replacing both U-joints and while I was spending quality time under the car I noticed a lot oil of leaking from the pinion oil seal. Since the replacement of the u-joints I can now hear differential whine while at speed. I'm assuming that I'm losing oil through the seal and this may be the source of this loudness. I recently changed the oil and topped up the unit so I was also noticing that gear oil smell.
I understand that leaking seal could be an indication of a worn pinion bearing but since the diff wasn't dry the last time I changed out the oil and the worn rear u-joint was probably causing stress on the system I'm willing to risk just replacing the seal to see if I get some results.
The factory manual I have indicates that one needs to measure the amount of torque required to loosen the flange bolt during disassembly so that one does not crush the collapsible spacer behind the outer pinion bearing during reassembly. Is this possible with a modern click-type torque wrench? Can I just keep setting the torque higher and higher until it comes loose then shoot for that when I put it back together? It also says to use a special tool to hold the flange while removing the nut. Can I just work against the parking brake and weight of the car and a wheel chock (I'm thin enough to fit under it without jacking it up)
Thanks to all.
I understand that leaking seal could be an indication of a worn pinion bearing but since the diff wasn't dry the last time I changed out the oil and the worn rear u-joint was probably causing stress on the system I'm willing to risk just replacing the seal to see if I get some results.
The factory manual I have indicates that one needs to measure the amount of torque required to loosen the flange bolt during disassembly so that one does not crush the collapsible spacer behind the outer pinion bearing during reassembly. Is this possible with a modern click-type torque wrench? Can I just keep setting the torque higher and higher until it comes loose then shoot for that when I put it back together? It also says to use a special tool to hold the flange while removing the nut. Can I just work against the parking brake and weight of the car and a wheel chock (I'm thin enough to fit under it without jacking it up)
Thanks to all.